Mast step/tube repair

Ghost Rider

Planing into eternity...
#21
Damn, Webfoot1, you should've been a comedian, LOL... I'm not joking either, do you think this friggin' abortion of glasswork is actually factory? Good Lord, no wonder I'm a diehard Laser man, yeah??? But your post is HILARIOUS, and I kowtow to your superior comic genius, LOL. :rolleyes:

"YOU DA MAN, BABY!!!" ;)

It's alright, I'm no Epic Darwin Failure, in fact I'm gonna steal that hot brunette out of your avatar, even if she HAS been DEAD for 50 years, LOL... :eek:

You're still the man, I'll use the dead gal as bait for crabs, lobster, etc. :D
 
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Thread starter #22
Thanks guys!
I made some progress today. Knocked out the rice chex around the tube (like ghost rider said). From a little prying I found that the step and the tube are not really connected well, Im not really sure how it lasted this long. Definitely going to put more material on that I initially thought. thumbnail_IMG_20180729_144257509.jpg
 
#23
Thanks guys!
I made some progress today. Knocked out the rice chex around the tube (like ghost rider said). From a little prying I found that the step and the tube are not really connected well, Im not really sure how it lasted this long. Definitely going to put more material on that I initially thought. View attachment 27286
Looks like you did a nice job cleaning it up and have a nice surface to work with going forward. Looking forward to seeing it after you get it glassed up.
 

Ghost Rider

Planing into eternity...
#25
Ah, much better... you always want to get rid of the trash that's doing ya no good, and the best way to do it is by filing, grinding, sanding, trimming with a razor knife, etc. You're definitely on the right track now, and by all means, don't be afraid to add more strips from the step tube to the hull. I'd probably wrap the step tube first, thoroughly wetting it up, wait till it's cured and add more strips, then wrap the tube again before laying a circular patch around the base to cover all the strips. By alternating from wrap-to-strip-to-wrap, you'll make the whole step bulletproof, just be sure to use enough resin for every task. You want any residual dry cloth from the original mess to be saturated with resin, that'll improve the overall bond and give you a strong, reliable mast step. Remember, nobody will be seeing this repair, better to use a little extra material so you won't have to deal with it again... otherwise, you're doing a great job, it already looks WAY better than it was, LOL. CHEERS!!! :cool:
 
Thread starter #26
It came out pretty well. I tested it out at Lake Red Rock IA this weekend. First high wind, big lake experience. It was interesting to say the least.
Here is what i ended up doing
thickened resin around base and the original bottom to step strips to smooth out the gaps
fiberglass mat to fillet the base
11x16 fiberglass cloth the bottom
2" wide roll up the tube
fiberglass mat strips from bottom to step to bulk it up
fiberglass cloth strips from bottom to step
3 fiberglass cloth around strips and half way up
9x9 fiberglass cloth on bottom
new backer blocks, made the pulley one way big because i found some cracks in the gel coat around it.
5" port and reinforced it with cutting board. (wasn't ideal, to much flex)

What I would have done different was not use the 2" fiberglass cloth roll. The one i got could did not soak up the resin as well as the bondo/3m I used on the rest of it. It was actually harder to do the wrap because you can only do less than one wrap before you add resin. id do 8"ish sections of cloth (don"t cut it so the fibers go vertical and horizontal).

The die grinder is air powered. Definitely a must have.You can put sanding discs or scotch brite discs on. 1/4 in. Air Angle Die Grinder
thumbnail_IMG_20180802_184113664.jpg
 

Ghost Rider

Planing into eternity...
#28
Looks solid, got a loose wrap there, a little file work and another wrap or two in the center of the tube would make it burlier than King Kong, LOL... :eek:

But I'm thinking that base is pretty solid now, much more solid than it was when ya started, so it'll be awhile before that thing gives ya any more grief... :rolleyes:

TIME TO TEST THAT BAD GIRL ON THE WATER, LOL... WHAT'S BOAT WORK WITHOUT A STRESS & SAFETY TEST?!? DON'T FORGET THE BEER!!! ;)
 
Thread starter #29
Yup both backing blocks are there. Pic is taken from behind coaming.

Ghost rider, that wrap stuff wasn't good. The white goes the full length (not as white in person) but it must not of penetrated fully. With resin under and dabbing each layer, then 15 min dabbing after it still had a tint of white. I yanked it tight so it should be half decent. I must of wiped up a half cup of resin off the bottom when I was done with the wraps.

Also I do see that bubble in the outer layer. I'll probably just leave it. The mast hole has got to be the strongest thing on the boat now.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#30
'Thought your grinder would have been air-powered. :cool: You probably looked like a ghost! :D

The bottom looks reinforced—and, from my perspective, that's a good thing.

As for the cutting board reinforcement, you can still insert a continuous ring, and bend it into the port. (Maybe). :confused:

Good job, all around, and thanks for the follow-up presentation. :) Follow-ups are kind of scarce around here. :oops:

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Thread starter #31
'Thought your grinder would have been air-powered. :cool: You probably looked like a ghost! :D

The bottom looks reinforced—and, from my perspective, that's a good thing.

Good job, all around, and thanks for the follow-up. :) Follow-ups are kind of scarce around here. :oops:

.
I didn't actually end up using the die grinder much due to the lack of vision but it did make quick work of a couple resin globs.
 
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