supercub
Member
Ok Guys, this is how I did it.
Get your cleat (4 or 4-1/2") of choice, stainless steel bolts (long enough to go thru the cleat, mast side and nuts, plus a little) and nuts, small fish line or dental floss, 4" of 1/8" solder, sealant (3M 4200/5200), drill, pliers, wrench, a piece of aluminum step flashing and a clothespin.
You will have to remove the mast base cap and any cork to do the rest.
I used a piece of flashing (2" L x 3/4" W) to wrap the heads of the bolts to keep them from turning. Place the cleat over this piece of aluminum and drill your holes in it. Use the cleat as a drill guide on the mast also. Insert your bolts (with a bit of sealant under the heads) thru the aluminum and fold the aluminum over the the bolt heads (crimp tight with pliers). From the holes in the mast, drop the strings (tied to 2" pieces of solder) out the bottom. Tie (or glue) the string to the threaded end of the bolts. Apply sealant to the area of the bolts and flashing that will contact the inside of the mast and gently pull the bolts thru the holes in the mast. Put a clothes pin temporarally on the bolts to keep them from falling back into the mast and remove the string. Put a bit of sealent under the cleat, place over the the bolts, add your nuts (nylock recomended) and tighten.
Reinstall the mast cap and you are done. This method can also be used to attach cleats for an outhaul or cunninham or to replace the mainsheet blocks on the lower spar.
Wind Line Sails (http://www.windline.net/index.html) has a jens rig kit that includes every thing you need for about 12-13 bucks. Placement pictures are found under the Tips and Tricks Section and FAQs on the SF Class page. ISCA Rule 3.5.9 specifies the max height of the cleat on the mast. Wind Line also has an outhaul/cunningham kit and APS (http://www.apsltd.com/default.asp) has a similar kit for the mainsheet blocks. Good Luck
Get your cleat (4 or 4-1/2") of choice, stainless steel bolts (long enough to go thru the cleat, mast side and nuts, plus a little) and nuts, small fish line or dental floss, 4" of 1/8" solder, sealant (3M 4200/5200), drill, pliers, wrench, a piece of aluminum step flashing and a clothespin.
You will have to remove the mast base cap and any cork to do the rest.
I used a piece of flashing (2" L x 3/4" W) to wrap the heads of the bolts to keep them from turning. Place the cleat over this piece of aluminum and drill your holes in it. Use the cleat as a drill guide on the mast also. Insert your bolts (with a bit of sealant under the heads) thru the aluminum and fold the aluminum over the the bolt heads (crimp tight with pliers). From the holes in the mast, drop the strings (tied to 2" pieces of solder) out the bottom. Tie (or glue) the string to the threaded end of the bolts. Apply sealant to the area of the bolts and flashing that will contact the inside of the mast and gently pull the bolts thru the holes in the mast. Put a clothes pin temporarally on the bolts to keep them from falling back into the mast and remove the string. Put a bit of sealent under the cleat, place over the the bolts, add your nuts (nylock recomended) and tighten.
Reinstall the mast cap and you are done. This method can also be used to attach cleats for an outhaul or cunninham or to replace the mainsheet blocks on the lower spar.
Wind Line Sails (http://www.windline.net/index.html) has a jens rig kit that includes every thing you need for about 12-13 bucks. Placement pictures are found under the Tips and Tricks Section and FAQs on the SF Class page. ISCA Rule 3.5.9 specifies the max height of the cleat on the mast. Wind Line also has an outhaul/cunningham kit and APS (http://www.apsltd.com/default.asp) has a similar kit for the mainsheet blocks. Good Luck