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Marine-Tex'able Repairs

1st crack at fiberglassing. I've been following po-man's fiberglass thread/adventure and wanted to throw some pics up to see if Marine-Tex will work for these repairs. The previous patches seem solid, should I grind these back to see what's underneath? Thanks for the advice.
 

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Oh, I also have 1qt of TotalBoat Polyester Resin and fiberglass mat for a bow repair. Can I somehow thicken up the resin and up and use that instead of Marine-Tex?
 
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L&VW

Well-Known Member
West System 403 "microfibers" can be added; however, if you open the container in a wind, the contests can disappear before your eyes! :eek:

The patches aren't pretty, but I wouldn't spend the time it takes to "beautify" them. Otherwise, wait for the off-season to do (or re-do) fiberglass repairs.

The patch at the bow is probably worth keeping "as-is", as it's over-done and at a natural collision point. (Meaning, it may need "re-addressing" after misadventure). A pressurized leak test would help in that decision.

The dents should be drilled to smoothness at the edges. That's "The Ideal" for Marine-Tex. Other places should be heavily scored before using Marine-Tex. Lay a heavy clear plastic film over the repair, and gently spread the Marine-Tex to desired smoothness. Afterwards, further treatment may not be necessary.

To maximize Marine-Tex' gripping power, I'd use a Harbor Freight grinder ($9) on each of the larger repairs. (The 4-inch wheel has to be purchased separately).
 
West System 403 "microfibers" can be added; however, if you open the container in a wind, the contests can disappear before your eyes! :eek:

The patches aren't pretty, but I wouldn't spend the time it takes to "beautify" them. Otherwise, wait for the off-season to do (or re-do) fiberglass repairs.

The patch at the bow is probably worth keeping "as-is", as it's over-done and at a natural collision point. (Meaning, it may need "re-addressing" after misadventure). A pressurized leak test would help in that decision.

The dents should be drilled to smoothness at the edges. That's "The Ideal" for Marine-Tex. Other places should be heavily scored before using Marine-Tex. Lay a heavy clear plastic film over the repair, and gently spread the Marine-Tex to desired smoothness. Afterwards, further treatment may not be necessary.

To maximize Marine-Tex' gripping power, I'd use a Harbor Freight grinder ($9) on each of the larger repairs. (The 4-inch wheel has to be purchased separately).
Thanks. That's great advice. So can I substitute the 403 microfiber mixed with the polyester resin for the Marine-Tex?
 
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po-man sailor

Active Member
I'm with L&VW, I would just patch the obvious holes , leak test and sail. When there is time, buy a cheap harbor sander and some stick on hook and loop paper and take the ugly stuff down and take a look. Maybe its all cosmetic in some of those areas.
Another note for what its worth...I bought my fiberglass resin and cloth at lowes. Qt can was only bout 10 bucks with harder. They have good plastic marked measuring cups there too for mixing. Mix 4 oz at a time for easy work w no left overs. Cut all you cloth pieces ahead and have them laid out and ready at each spot. I did all the hole patching on my hull you see with about 3/4 of a qt. Cheap fix and less than marine tex. Although it doesn't dry white. As Signal Charlie said you can touch up and blend with whit spray rustolium.
Also cheapest foam and disposable glass brushes are also at the China store. (Harbor frieght) good luck!
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
Thanks. That's great advice. So can I substitute the 403 microfiber mixed with the polyester resin for the Marine-Tex?
I don't see why not, although I use epoxy exclusively. Googled:

Features:

  • West System 403 Microfibers Adhesive Filler has a fine fiber blend
  • Applications: West System resins, but suitable for all epoxy and polyester resins except as noted
  • Function: Used as a thickening additive with epoxy resin/hardener to create a multi-purpose adhesive, especially for bonding wood
  • Epoxy thickened with microfibers has good gap-filling qualities while retaining excellent wetting/penetrating capability
  • Container Size: 5 oz
  • Color: Off-white
 
I don't see why not, although I use epoxy exclusively. Googled:

Features:

  • West System 403 Microfibers Adhesive Filler has a fine fiber blend
  • Applications: West System resins, but suitable for all epoxy and polyester resins except as noted
  • Function: Used as a thickening additive with epoxy resin/hardener to create a multi-purpose adhesive, especially for bonding wood
  • Epoxy thickened with microfibers has good gap-filling qualities while retaining excellent wetting/penetrating capability
  • Container Size: 5 oz
  • Color: Off-white
One more question. In regards to the polyester resin is there any advantage of finishing with PVA vs wax? Ok, one more question :), if I go with PVA, do you just wipe it on?
 

Woodwind

Active Member
1st crack at fiberglassing. I've been following po-man's fiberglass thread/adventure and wanted to throw some pics up to see if Marine-Tex will work for these repairs. The previous patches seem solid, should I grind these back to see what's underneath? Thanks for the advice.
Don’t forget the trick of smoothing plastic like visqueen, merchandise bag sections or even plastic wrap if that’s all you have... on top of the marine Tex repair. you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how smooth it comes out with no sanding required.
 
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