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Yes, it’s just a matter of practice.Probably the simplest thing is to just haul in the mainsheet to keep the slack out of it while going through a tack.
This went way over my head by the way.Happens if there is too much slack in the sheet, so it drops in the water and gets dragged around the back of the boat when switching tacks. When tacking reach-to-reach, just do as tag said. When gybing, heel the boat to windward (on the "old" tack), and grab the sheet at the boom block when the boom crosses the centreline. Pull the sheet to windward (on the new tack) so that the motion of the boom takes the slack out. Works in the Laser, should be even easier on a Sunfish (as there's less purchase = less loose sheet.)
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I’m not sure it works on a Sunfish anyway.This went way over my head by the way.
Bad advice for tacking.My sailing instructor taught me to let the sail out fully during turns. Maybe that’s not necessary. Thanks!
Ease the sheet a little when you tack, but not fully. A foot or so should do it.Yes, I have done the Flick a few times. Seems like I really need to try to keep the main sheet from slacking. My sailing instructor taught me to let the sail out fully during turns. Maybe that’s not necessary. Thanks!
Ok... I'll do it more slowly. And expand a little.This went way over my head by the way.
Why would that be?I’m not sure it works on a Sunfish anyway.
I haven’t seen a difference based on the bridle type (2 loop or the 3 loop design). The problem seems more closely related to allowing too much slack in the mainsheet during a tack or gybe.Does it matter which bridle design one has? 2/3?
I very seldom have this situation, and I'm about to switch all five of my Sunfish over to two-eye!
Well, no. This doesn't have anything to do with how the sheet runs along the boom, but what happens between the aft boom block and the hull...Maybe I don't have the problem because my mainsheet runs through two tight duck-tape guides? (A little sticky).