mainsheet gets caught on corner

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barnmom

Member
Lately I've noticed that when I change course the mainsheet tends to get caught on the rear corner. That requires me to stretch back and yank it straight. Easy to do in calm wind; not so easy in high winds or gusts. am I doing something wrong? Anyone have a fix?
 
Happens if there is too much slack in the sheet, so it drops in the water and gets dragged around the back of the boat when switching tacks. When tacking reach-to-reach, just do as tag said. When gybing, heel the boat to windward (on the "old" tack), and grab the sheet at the boom block when the boom crosses the centreline. Pull the sheet to windward (on the new tack) so that the motion of the boom takes the slack out. Works in the Laser, should be even easier on a Sunfish :) (as there's less purchase = less loose sheet.)

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Yes, I have done the Flick a few times. Seems like I really need to try to keep the main sheet from slacking. My sailing instructor taught me to let the sail out fully during turns. Maybe that’s not necessary. Thanks!
 
LaLi said:
Happens if there is too much slack in the sheet, so it drops in the water and gets dragged around the back of the boat when switching tacks. When tacking reach-to-reach, just do as tag said. When gybing, heel the boat to windward (on the "old" tack), and grab the sheet at the boom block when the boom crosses the centreline. Pull the sheet to windward (on the new tack) so that the motion of the boom takes the slack out. Works in the Laser, should be even easier on a Sunfish :) (as there's less purchase = less loose sheet.)

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This went way over my head by the way.
 
barnmom said:
My sailing instructor taught me to let the sail out fully during turns. Maybe that’s not necessary. Thanks!
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Bad advice for tacking.
For jibing, yes, the sail will usually be out 90 degrees (approximately) on one side and when you change course, it's best for beginners to let it swing all the way to the other side (while keeping your head down).
 
barnmom said:
Yes, I have done the Flick a few times. Seems like I really need to try to keep the main sheet from slacking. My sailing instructor taught me to let the sail out fully during turns. Maybe that’s not necessary. Thanks!
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Ease the sheet a little when you tack, but not fully. A foot or so should do it.
 
barnmom said:
This went way over my head by the way.
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:confused: Ok... I'll do it more slowly. And expand a little.

The mechanics:
  • What causes the sheet to catch the corner (or/and the rudder) is that the sheet drops in the water, and is dragged behind the transom by the forward motion of the boat. It happens only if there's enough slack in the sheet.
  • The sheet actually gets stuck only when the boom switches sides - that is, when tacking or gybing.
Tacking:
  • when tacking upwind (starting the tack on a closehauled course), this is no problem as there is very little slack in the sheet.
  • when starting a tack on a reach, pull the sheet in at the same speed as the boat turns, so that you take the slack out at the same rate as it's created.
Gybing:
This is trickier because in practice you can take only part of the slack out by pulling the sheet through all the blocks (as when tacking). You'll need very different techniques in different wind strengths as well.
  • light wind - you can grab the sheet between the traveller/bridle and the aft boom block to pull the boom over. If possible, use the tiller extension to get hold of that part of the sheet, so you don't have to move your weight aft and to leeward.
  • medium wind - many possible techniques here, but what I've found to work is to first pull the sheet in some of the way (through all the blocks). When the boom is coming over and just about to cross the centreline, you catch the sheet just below the forward boom block. Keep that sheet-holding hand still (or move it toward the new windward side), and the motion of the boom "reels" in the "extra" sheet that would otherwise fall in the water. If it still catches the corner, one sharp yank should help. Do NOT pull the sheet in the direction that the boom is moving, as this negates what you're trying to accomplish. (Some people who are used to centre sheeting have a hard time learning this!)
  • strong wind - the harder it blows, the faster the boom "whips" the sheet over, and the less there is any corner-catching problem. (Thankfully.)
In all conditions, heeling to windward helps to steer the boat into a gybe, but it also keeps the sheet a bit farther from the water.

beldar boathead said:
I’m not sure it works on a Sunfish anyway.
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Why would that be?

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The “grab the sheet near the bridle” approach doesn’t work on a sunfish but it certainly does work on a Laser. Doesn’t work on a sunfish as their is Muuuuccchhh more sheet back there. You end up in a fight with it to pull it in and get it over. Also most rec sailors don’t have a tiller universal and a long enough stick to try the clever approach, but it would not work for the above reason.

For our sailor in question, sail thru the gybe, and as the sail comes across, just give a tug on the sheet to mininimize how much is back there to loop over the stern.

While Sunfish and Lasers have some similarities, there are nuances that set them apart in some cases.
 
One other thing to check is that you didn't end up with a boat that somebody tried to use a 3/8 main sheet(rope). The biggest that slides through the Sunfish blocks without binding on the boom is 5/16 or 8mm. A main sheet that binds in the blocks will do all sorts of strange things. A Sunfish shouldn't be nearly as prone to wrap the transom as a Laser. Of course pre-sheeting helps when jibing as they said above. I also grind my shoulder on the main sheet when jibing, just because it became a habit when I raced Lasers. That only works when you have a ratchet block or a swivel cleat.
One thing that sounds weird, but works, is to sail on a day with very light wind around 8 mph and sail in complete circles while working on the timing needed to have smooth and constant drive all the way around. 5 in each direction then switch.
 
Does it matter which bridle design one has? 2/3?

I very seldom have this situation, and I'm about to switch all five of my Sunfish over to two-eye!

:confused:
 
L&VW said:
Does it matter which bridle design one has? 2/3?

I very seldom have this situation, and I'm about to switch all five of my Sunfish over to two-eye!

:confused:
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I haven’t seen a difference based on the bridle type (2 loop or the 3 loop design). The problem seems more closely related to allowing too much slack in the mainsheet during a tack or gybe.
 
OK then. Maybe I don't have the problem because my mainsheet runs through two tight duck-tape guides? (A little sticky).
 
L&VW said:
Maybe I don't have the problem because my mainsheet runs through two tight duck-tape guides? (A little sticky).
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Well, no. This doesn't have anything to do with how the sheet runs along the boom, but what happens between the aft boom block and the hull...

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