Mainsheet cleat mod without access port

brockenspectre

brockenspectre

Member
Our 1985 Sunfish has just the mainsheet clip and I assumed if I wanted a cleat or a block, that I would have to cut an access port in order to install a backer plate.

But then I noticed that this 1980 boat has a mainsheet cleat but there isn't an access port. How do you install one with needing to get inside the hull?

1980 Sunfish

I have a 1980 Sunfish sailboat for sale. Includes brand new sail, sail/spar bag, refurbished rudder with new rudder cheek, mahogany Daggerboard that has been fiberglassed, mast, booms, mainsheet cleat, new halyard and new mainsheet and new bow handle. This boat is ready for the water. $1550...
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There’s enough room to install a mainsheet block AND replace the hook with a cam cleat.

(I later added a stand-up spring.)

img0187_070.jpg
 
Ok, let me rephrase my question. How do I put in a block on my top deck (1985) without having to cut access ports?

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How did this guy with a 1980 do it? What there already something there from the factory that went away on the 1985's?
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look at my picture above (green hull) - drill 2 holes in the part of the lip that overhangs the cockpit, there should be plenty of room. I used a large fender washer on the underside to help distribute the load.
 
I guess I have to weigh how "vintage" do I keep my "vintage" 1985 boat.

I'm restoring a vintage warbird airplane. It had a low powered engine that required "finesse" from the pilot, no starter so the pilot has to hand prop to start the engine, no electrical system, no navigation, etc. I'm constantly getting pressured from friends to upgrade all this but then it changes how the airplane flies. What's the fun in flying a 1940's airplane if it doesn't fly like a 1940's airplane. Same with these boats.
 
You might want to keep an old wood Sunfish more vintage, but honestly there isn’t much special about a 1985 Sunfish. And if you had a pre-1972, there isn’t much extra fun to be had trying to wrestle the old style rudder back down after it pops up in a breeze. Those are best upgraded if it’s not too expensive. A few folks appreciate a wood fish, but there is no extra interest or value in a fiberglass fish of any vintage.
 
tag said:
There’s enough room to install a mainsheet block AND replace the hook with a cam cleat.

(I later added a stand-up spring.)

img0187_070.jpg
Click to expand...
tag said:
look at my picture above (green hull) - drill 2 holes in the part of the lip that overhangs the cockpit, there should be plenty of room. I used a large fender washer on the underside to help distribute the load.
Click to expand...


In fact, I performed this exact modification today, using this photo and related info for guidance. Fabulous.
I bought all the components at West Marine (somewhat cheaper online, but wanted to get on the water while the kids are in town). I used stainless steel screws and vinyl locking nuts. A fender washer mentioned above sounds like a better idea. I also included a stand up spring.

The toughest part is grabbing the nut underneath the lip where you can’t see, but it’s do-able and an old-fashioned wrench (nut side) is preferable to an adjustable one, I thought.

Just be sure to install the ratchet block setup first (mine is about 1-1/4” back from the lip), and then the cam cleat on the lip, so you have fewer nuts to dodge. I had to remove the original “knee knocker” hook first. I re-used one of those holes, then re-drilled the other.

We just got back from a fantastic day of sailing. My son said the new rig was great. Super windy, so he opted not to use the cleat. That was smart, as I was in our other boat and almost went over when my mainsheet was cleated unbeknownst to me. We will use it sparingly.
 
I made this upgrade as well recently. But now I'm wondering if I should fill the old holes with epoxy or something else to prevent water from seeping into the hull?
 
No, you got it right. I have been on vacation and haven't looked at the boat in like a month. I forgot that the old holes don't really penetrate the hull into the core. Thanks.
 
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tag said:
There’s enough room to install a mainsheet block AND replace the hook with a cam cleat.

(I later added a stand-up spring.)

img0187_070.jpg
Click to expand...
I'm having a very hard time finding the stainless steel eye strap. I see lots on Amazon, but I really want to make sure it is industrial strength. Where did you buy yours?
 
signal charlie said:
You shouldn't mention old airplanes without posting pictures...

Here's my current ride, the MD-95 aka Boeing 717, known to me as the "Mini Dog." She flies great, considering she morphed from a DC-9 airframe and MD-11 FMS.
Click to expand...
My PBY-pilot Dad was a "Tech-Rep" on the MD-10 for JAT and DC9s, but started out on the AD-1 and AD-4. Retired some time after MD morphed to Boeing.

Trained new PBY pilots when a Cadet!
 
Weston said:
I'm having a very hard time finding the stainless steel eye strap. I see lots on Amazon, but I really want to make sure it is industrial strength. Where did you buy yours?
Click to expand...
If it’s made of stainless it’s not going to break under the loads on a Sunfish. An Americas Cup boat might need something stronger, but not a Sunfish.
 
brockenspectre said:
All right, swivel cam cleat versus Harken block.......which is better? (Let the games begin!!!)

I just ordered the block so need to know while I can still cancel it!
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Why not both? (I know that with this post I’m going to get a flurry of cautions about the main sheet getting caught in the cleat during a gust causing me to flip. However, in practice I never release the main sheet from my hand, having just enough tension where I can pop it out of the cleat at a moment’s notice. I’ve not flipped!).

for some reason I’m getting an error preventing me from uploading a photo of my combo cleat ratchet block. :(
 
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Weston said:
Why not both? (I know that with this post I’m going to get a flurry of cautions about the main sheet getting caught in the cleat during a gust causing me to flip. However, in practice I never release the main sheet from my hand, having just enough tension where I can pop it out of the cleat at a moment’s notice. I’ve not flipped!).

for some reason I’m getting an error preventing me from uploading a photo of my combo cleat ratchet block. :(
Click to expand...
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I've got a very similar setup that I've been using all this summer. You do have to be quick!

It interferes with my winter storage, as my Sunfish is stored up-side down all winter. This setup must be removed every fall.

This is why I advocate for threaded 3-inch-long nylon "nuts". My local hardware store stopped carrying them, but they're available on-line.
 
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