Main Sheet and block

P

Padraigh36

New Member
Sailing this weekend I found that the load on the main sheet was much higher than I normal. The wind was not particularly strong (12-14knotts) however I needed a double wrap of the main sheet around my hand just hold onto it. The ratchett on the main sheet block was engaged but it felt as if it was taking none of the load. The block is pretty new (3 years old) and has been lightly used. The main sheet also seems to be in pretty good condition. I wonder has anyone else experienced similar problems. Does the main sheet need to replaced regularly on a laser?

On a similar issue as anyone attempted to use a larger diameter mainsheet. My current mainsheet is the standard that came with the boat from new (3 years ago). I have quite big hands and have always found the main sheet quite thin. The standard sheet seems to be 7mm diameter but I wonder if anyone has used an 8 or 9 mm sheet and how successful or otherwise this was.

Appreciate your help.
 
I have noticed similar issues. I have not recently replaced a mast section or sail, but I have considered replacing my mainsheet block with a smaller diameter sheive. the standard mainsheet block is 55mm, but some have gone to 40mm. this could also be because they have a thinner mainsheet at 6mm instead of 7mm. Most 40mm rachet blocks, however will fit line diameters up to 8mm.

P.S. first post on laser forum. Thanks for having me.
 
Hi Guys, The rig is the same as last season so no changes to mast or sail. If the main block is a 55mm block does this mean it can cope with a much thickker line than standard? What about the other blocks on the boom, could they cope with a 10mm sheet for example? Padraig
 
I'm not sure what exactly could be the problem, then. Maybe the internals of your block are starting to fail, though if it still ratchets, it should still be good.

I really don't know what to tell you in this situation.
 
Your block failing internal seems doubtful at 3 years. I hope you didn't do what I did
a month ago put the line thru the wrong way on block and had rachet on. I fought
and fought it at 15 mph wind until I realized it. I use a 7m Bzzz. line and really made
a difference.
 
When you say the ratchet was "engaged" what do you mean? The switch was in the right position? Or you checked it and it was physically locking and rotating only in a single direction?

As mentioned above, make sure you don't feed the mainsheet through the block backwards, giving the boom the advantage against you. :eek:

If the sheet was routed correctly, the switch was engaged, and you still felt no advantage, I'm betting on block failure. Yes a block can fail in only three years. Autoratchet blocks are fairly finicky devices. (Tip: You can help extend their life by rinsing them thoroughly with fresh water after sailing in salt water.)

And yes, when it's windy I sail with a mainsheet larger than 7mm; EDIT: it's 10mm Marlow Marstron
 
Hi,

> ... Does the main sheet need to replaced regularly on a laser?

In my opinion, yes. But not so much for block issues. I just like fresh lines -- runs smoother, less tangles, easier on the hands. And, does get better grip on the ratchet block. It's obviously the single most important rope on the boat. (Anyone out there want to buy some used mainsheets ?! Deep discount on bulk deals ... ;-)

I have had ratchet blocks just lose grip after a few years though -- the teeth just get tired / rounded. But not so in recent ones or even in old school ones after a just a few seasons. And, it happens gradually. 3 years seems too early for that, unless very lax about sand/grit/crap getting in the works.

> ... On a similar issue as anyone attempted to use a larger diameter mainsheet.

Be careful not tooooo fat, or it will get hung up in the other blocks, even if the ratchet bock can handle it. And, will be real heavy and not run as well in lighter conditions. (I personally prefer skinny main sheet, again because they run better ... and we get a lot of light air where I'm at. Hand shredding be damned.)

-- Peter
 
Thanks for the help. The main sheet was rigged correctly ie fed through in the right direction. I checked the block after the first race and the ratched was engaging although I did this under hand pressure alone. I will check the teeth on the block this weekend and see if there are any visible signs of wear. Is there anything in particular to look for or is it just a general signs of wear. Are there any other tests to check the block?

I have ordered a larger diameter main sheet (9mm) anyway as my hands get completely shredded by my current sheet. As suggested earlier I will swop sheets depending on wind conditions and see how that works.
 
Padraigh36 said:
Thanks for the help. The main sheet was rigged correctly ie fed through in the right direction. I checked the block after the first race and the ratched was engaging although I did this under hand pressure alone. I will check the teeth on the block this weekend and see if there are any visible signs of wear. Is there anything in particular to look for or is it just a general signs of wear. Are there any other tests to check the block?

I have ordered a larger diameter main sheet (9mm) anyway as my hands get completely shredded by my current sheet. As suggested earlier I will swop sheets depending on wind conditions and see how that works.
Click to expand...

9mm a bit big hey, if you worried about your hands get 8mm and put it thru a washing machine on a hot cycle 3 or 4 times. It will lose its wax feel and fluff up a bit.

Thinner main sheet runs better and will not hook up on a gybe as much, but it sucks in heavy air. I have started using thin main with the new blocks and it great, but if it blowing will still get old faithfull (ie thick old mainsheet)
 
I do wear gloves but use the short finger variety. The water is very warm and salty where I sail (Persian gulf), my hands end up like you get in the bath, so great chunks get knocked out quite easily. My wife is getting fed up with the rope burns on my hands and my knees cut to bits.

I intend to start using long finger gloves so hopefully this and a thicker main sheet will deal with this.

Thanks for all the advice.

Padraig
 
Each to their own really.

An 8-9 mm mainsheet will work, I changed my partner's mainsheet at the end of last season to an 8mm to protect her hands as she thinks whe has a little arthritis. Her work involves a lot of delicate hand work so it could be RSI. I'll be also replacing her ratchet block when she gets back on the boat with something better.

Personally, I use a 6mm mainsheet, no gloves and no mainsheet cleats and I have big hands, but I use good quality ratchet blocks. I really hate wearing gloves whilst helming and cleats are just not necessary in my opinion and can lead to some poor technique.

If your hands have been progressively suffering more, I'd definitely be looking at replacing your ratchet block, they do wear out with the "teeth" wearing smooth which means they won't grip the rope. When this happens, more load is progressively being transferred to your hands. I find that I get 5 years out of a ratchet block before it really needs replacing. Of all the ratchets I've used, the Frederiksen is the best followed by the Harken.
 
Shatty007 said:
Everyone should have callouses.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I remember when I was young and my answer to every problem was some variation of "toughen up."

Time has a way of changing perspective on these things.

I have plenty of calluses on my hands. But over 25 years of hitting the keyboard for hours everyday has left its mark in terms of hand and wrist fatigue.

"Do more exercises and stretches for that."

Yeah, I do. Every day.

But I'll still take every mechanical advantage (friction/grip/ratchet) I can get over that mainsheet, especiallly for a full weekend windy regatta.
 
bjmoose said:
Yeah, I remember when I was young and my answer to every problem was some variation of "toughen up."

Time has a way of changing perspective on these things.

I have plenty of calluses on my hands. But over 25 years of hitting the keyboard for hours everyday has left its mark in terms of hand and wrist fatigue.

"Do more exercises and stretches for that."

Yeah, I do. Every day.

But I'll still take every mechanical advantage (friction/grip/ratchet) I can get over that mainsheet, especiallly for a full weekend windy regatta.
Click to expand...

I found gloves actually hindered my grip and forced me to have to squeeze the sheet harder.
 
Shatty007 said:
Everyone should have callouses
Click to expand...

I use 4mm hemp rope with small bits of broken glass embedded in the fibres.

Once my hands toughen up and scar nicely I find I can often get through a race with only a small loss of blood.

Next year I am hoping to toughen up enough to sail with a barbed wire mainsheet!
 
Sean said:
I use 4mm hemp rope with small bits of broken glass embedded in the fibres.

Once my hands toughen up and scar nicely I find I can often get through a race with only a small loss of blood.

Next year I am hoping to toughen up enough to sail with a barbed wire mainsheet!
Click to expand...

I've worked my way up to razor wire.
 
I've worked my way up to razor wire.

It would be nice to be able to hold a fork and knife after sailing though. I know I should loose a couple of pounds but this seems a very extreme way of doing it.
 
I use gloves (a bit off topic here) and find some are better than others. I few years ago I purchased to flashy expensive dinghy sailing gloves with kevlar patches on the palms (really tough and supposedly non-slip) and they were totally useless - no grip on ropes at all. The gloves I find best are those with the soft grey leather palms (Amara I think). They seem to grip OK, protect my sensitive hands, etc. Used and found the same on large boats as well as for dinghy sailing.

I'm sure different gloves suit different people but my experience is that expensive does not always equate to good.

Ian
 
Padraigh36 said:
I've worked my way up to razor wire.

It would be nice to be able to hold a fork and knife after sailing though. I know I should loose a couple of pounds but this seems a very extreme way of doing it.
Click to expand...

Haha.

But seriously, if it turns out that nothing is mechanically wrong with your gear, you might want to try gloves. Some like'em, some don't.

Also, if you took an extended break from sailing, it may have just felt like it was harder/too hard to pull in. I know this has happened to me.

I'll sheet to go block to block and I'll think: "Wow, I don't remember it being this hard."
 
Deimos said:
I few years ago I purchased to flashy expensive dinghy sailing gloves with kevlar patches on the palms (really tough and supposedly non-slip) and they were totally useless - no grip on ropes at all. The gloves I find best are those with the soft grey leather palms (Amara I think).
Click to expand...

Don't know about kevlar, but even my gloves with Amara palms I have to dampen the palms to get them to grip.
 
I've found that the Atlas work gloves you buy at the hardware store for less than $10 work best. They have a rubberized palm and fingers that the sheet never slips through, making it easy to lock off with a simple twist of your wrist. They do wear out more quickly than sailing gloves, but at the price they are still a bargain.
 
Hi all,

Just to up date. The block on the boat does seem to be quite worn in parts. It looks as if it has worn unevenly so it could be a Friday afternoon job. I swapped my block with a friends at the club and the difference was very noticable so the plan is to get a new block as soon as.

Thanks for all of the help.

Padraig
 
For another option for gloves, quite a high percentage of the competitors in the Worlds in Terrigal wore ordinary rubber kitchen gloves with the fingers tips cut off.
 
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