L&VW
Well-Known Member
I was
A spacer of ⅛-inch would have to be aligned under the lower edge to make the trim look spiffy topsides. .
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- Thread starter Larry Hampton
- Start date
A spacer of ⅛-inch would have to be aligned under the lower edge to make the trim look spiffy topsides. .
Larry Hampton
New Member
Okay, to be honest this is the first I've looked back at this.
Checking the Ray Greene thread, my Ray Greene trim is way thicker and definitely aluminum, or aluminum like (potmetal?)
But my 'Fish is thin, like a folded piece of stainless steel.
Checking the Ray Greene thread, my Ray Greene trim is way thicker and definitely aluminum, or aluminum like (potmetal?)
But my 'Fish is thin, like a folded piece of stainless steel.
L&VW
Well-Known Member
Found the trim—measured the interior. It's exactly ¼-inch inside. (A little less than ⅜-inch outside). Next, is to locate some pop-rivets and see what length and diameter work best.Interesting thought.
I had a piece of trim in my hand a few weeks ago, and can't remember if the cross section of trim is symmetrical!'But, seems to me, by flipping the trim, the drilled holes would be so close (side to side), that you might have to drill a fresh hole at each location.
I've chosen to drill a fresh hole next to each defective rivet. The old (otherwise useless) hole will be taped underneath, get an "injection" of resin/slurry, and later, install a new rivet.
I'll have to suffer the loss of points at the next Sunfish show.
.
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L&VW
Well-Known Member
Pop-rivets were located and sized for the aluminum trim .
A third Sunfish is up-side down, so that Sunfish will be left for a measurement of the factory holes, which may be a size larger than ⅛-inch diameter.
First, check the existing hole in the fiberglass for integrity. (Insert the pop-rivet, and tug gently on the trim). Otherwise, drill one or two new ⅛-inch hole(s) to install new pop-rivet(s).
The correct pop-rivet size is ⅛-inch diameter—for a ⅛-inch hole—but it has a body-length of
¼-inch. Now, ¼-inch was measured of the actual pop-rivet body.
At "A", below, the package label shows a confusing ⅛-inch "grip". While this is correct, it won't help in finding any previously-purchased pop-rivets in one's collection. With a body (at "B") measuring ¼-inch—those are correct for this application! Note that, for the photo, a section of factory aluminum trim has been placed (reversed) behind this pop-rivet.
Existing pop-rivet (at "C") will be left intact, as any other repair would leave a hazard. Longer pop-rivets may work, but may stick above the deck to eventually cause "hurt".
Seeing that my missing pop-rivets were sheared-off, I'd use aluminum pop-rivets to re-use the factory holes in the fiberglass. (Maybe more than once!
).
.
. A third Sunfish is up-side down, so that Sunfish will be left for a measurement of the factory holes, which may be a size larger than ⅛-inch diameter.
First, check the existing hole in the fiberglass for integrity. (Insert the pop-rivet, and tug gently on the trim). Otherwise, drill one or two new ⅛-inch hole(s) to install new pop-rivet(s).
The correct pop-rivet size is ⅛-inch diameter—for a ⅛-inch hole—but it has a body-length of
¼-inch. Now, ¼-inch was measured of the actual pop-rivet body.
At "A", below, the package label shows a confusing ⅛-inch "grip". While this is correct, it won't help in finding any previously-purchased pop-rivets in one's collection. With a body (at "B") measuring ¼-inch—those are correct for this application! Note that, for the photo, a section of factory aluminum trim has been placed (reversed) behind this pop-rivet.
Existing pop-rivet (at "C") will be left intact, as any other repair would leave a hazard. Longer pop-rivets may work, but may stick above the deck to eventually cause "hurt".
Seeing that my missing pop-rivets were sheared-off, I'd use aluminum pop-rivets to re-use the factory holes in the fiberglass. (Maybe more than once!
)..