Length of main sheet with ratchet block

[Serpant]

With the sail run out to the run position the stopper knot on the main sheet prevents releasing the sail further to slow the boat prior to running on to beach.Furthermore I have encountered a nasty gybe hitting the fully retracted centerboard and my not so graceful landing backwards in the shallow water. Anybody else had this restricted sheet travel or is my sheet length not standard

 

[tag]

APS shows the mainsheet length as 32-feet.
Recreational Line Package For Sunfish

 

[signal charlie]

The standard for years has been 25 feet, but if your conditions warrant more then add a few feet. Or change your beach approach angle a bit to an opposite tack.

Be wary of letting the boom swing way too far forward of abeam (like to the bow) as the halyard gets pulled and puts enormous strain on the deck block and cleat. This can happen if the sail is left up on the beach and the sheet is not attached.

As for the daggerboard, that is why we have gone full circle and don't use bungees, just a retaining line. It needs close attention when launching and beaching to prevent catching the boom . We set our rigs high, board half down and when close to the beach on a run the daggerboard comes all the way out with one easy pull. That reduces chance of bottom strikes and trunk damage as well.

 

[beldar boathead]

The safest way to land in control is to turn upwind when you are close to the beach and hop out of the boat. Sailing full throttle into the beach isn’t great for the boat, and as Kent says letting the sail go way forward to luff isn’t the best thing either.

 

[Dickhogg]

Where I sail we have to sail right onto the beach most of the time because of breaking waves. I depower by sheeting in as I approach the beach.

 

[L&VW]

With the sail run out to the run position the stopper knot on the main sheet prevents releasing the sail further to slow the boat prior to running on to beach. Furthermore I have encountered a nasty gybe hitting the fully retracted centerboard and my not so graceful
landing backwards in the shallow water. Anybody else had this restricted sheet travel or is my sheet length not standard

"Landing backwards" can have dire consequences for a wooden rudder.

When I approach my destination, I drop the main using an extended halyard, pull the board out, and just coast in.
(Looking forward, seated in the cockpit).

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[Eddie_E]

If you swing into the wind and release the traveler clip, the sail will be free as you jump out of the boat. At least until the vang winds up.

 

[Serpant]

thanks again, good points.After 20ft of beach we have a steep hill and thick trees so wind gusts can be 180 .apart.
I might lengthen the sheet a little.My downhaul is mast cleated then once around gooseneck and thru deck block and on to cleat not pulled to tight.My bungee is attached from cb to mast so no problem removing cb..
Rounding into wind may be the easiest solution and stepping out in shallow water.Family members may need a little instruction.
I enjoy this forum . thanks

 

[L&VW]

For those disliking dragging wet and dripping mainsheets across the water, the line can be modified to have one end thinner and lighter than the other—quoting member Mixmkr:

With any double braid line, you can pull out the core, to reduce overall diameter. Sometimes used on larger boats on the jib furling line. Smaller diameter to go around the furling drum and not fill the drum up prematurely...and a larger size on the "gripping" area for better hand holds..

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[beldar boathead]

Of course when you pull out the core you lose the part of the sheet that doesn’t stretch - then you have a lot of sheet that is just stretch-prone cover. What big boat sailors do, and what is totally unnecessary for a Sunfish, is keep just the core where the line doesn’t get handled and cover the line where it is handled. APS can do that. I think mixmkr may have it backwards it but maybe there are cases where people need the stretchy cover and no core.

Also the cores are sometimes very prone to sun damage and are covered for that reason.

 

[L&VW]

I didn't know that about stretch, but if the core is removed, it's not going to be in the sun.

I see an advantage to "stretch" where landing a Sunfish in fluky winds has demonstrated that a longer mainsheet is desirable. As stated, I drop the main, toss the board into the cubby, but should add that I grab the paddle—which, while sailing, is stored alongside the mast.

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[beldar boathead]

I didn't know that about stretch, but if the core is removed, it's not going to be in the sun.
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Thanks for that insight.

 

[mixmkr]

If they are both Dacron, which the huge majority of current day lines are, both the core and outer will be UV resistant. Anything from New England lines, Samson, etc. "Racing" lines with Dyneema or Kevlar cores ...the cores now even more so. It's polypropolyne and nylon to a lesser extent that break down quicker. And it is the core you remove for sure. Realize the line doesn't now act like a bungy cord, but slightly elongates to take up the slack of the missing core...which for the most part over a 10' section of line is usually not noticed. But yes for a serious, racing main sheet

 

[beldar boathead]

Upon further reading it looks like stripping the cover is used on the part of a halyard that goes through a lot of turns and is aloft is a popular move and pulling out the core is done at the tail.

Haven’t seen much about this for sheets but I am planning to stop looking!!! In any event this is probably a bit extreme for Sunfish sheets!

 

[mixmkr]

correct...in some sense. Some cores, like the Kevlar that I mentioned are NOT braided and are only held in place by the exterior, braided cover. They can not be spliced as well (unless whipping the line). I've seen boats where a double braid has the outer removed, for halyards aloft, as you mentioned. Removing the core tends to make for a "flatter" line, which is just fine for furling drums. A large 150% genoa can sometimes easily fill a furling drum prematurely with a single furling line, depending on the furler brand. Keeping a "rounder" shape is best for mast head sheaves, etc...as you mention.
Basically on a serious racer, reducing ANY amount of weight aloft is beneficial...so high strength or "tapered" lines are typically the choice.
All that said… for a Sunfish, this is waaaaay past overkill. I do have a 3/8" on my mainsheet, as I like holding it and my Eddie VanHalen guitar fingers of years past, like the fatter line to grab on to.
Oh.... on sheets...for light air spinikers, this can be an option too, so the lines don't hang and distort the sail shape.

 

[Dickhogg]

From a 1970s British sailing book.

 

[L&VW]

correct...in some sense. Some cores, like the Kevlar that I mentioned are NOT braided and are only held in place by the exterior, braided cover. They can not be spliced as well (unless whipping the line). I've seen boats where a double braid has the outer removed, for halyards aloft, as you mentioned. Removing the core tends to make for a "flatter" line, which is just fine for furling drums. A large 150% genoa can sometimes easily fill a furling drum prematurely with a single furling line, depending on the furler brand. Keeping a "rounder" shape is best for mast head sheaves, etc...as you mention.
Basically on a serious racer, reducing ANY amount of weight aloft is beneficial...so high strength or "tapered" lines are typically the choice.
All that said… for a Sunfish, this is waaaaay past overkill. I do have a 3/8" on my mainsheet, as I like holding it and my Eddie VanHalen guitar fingers of years past, like the fatter line to grab on to.
Oh.... on sheets...for light air spinikers, this can be an option too, so the lines don't hang and distort the sail shape.

Here's an inexpensive line I cut today. The braid seems too fragile to use without the core—but if I were to remove the core, how would I start?

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[mixmkr]

pull it out between created spaces (with a fid or?) on the outer cover. Depending on the line, you should easily be able to pull out several feet at a time...as you work down the line. Make sure of course, the ends aren't "burnt" or melted together, as done on most synthetic lines to keep from un-raveling.