Laser Trailer Set Up

What is the best way to set up a trailer for a Laser? What size bunks do most of you have? Where do you have the front post in relation to the trailer tongue? Any advice or help would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
The best way is to not use bunks. It's best to support the Laser by the gunnels, near the cockpit and at the bow.
 
I read a number of posts here and on sailing anarchy about this awhile back when investigating my own trailer design. I decided to go with transport deck down with one bunk near the rear edge of the cockpit and the other somewhere near the outhaul/cunningham cleats, as this seemed to be the most structurally sound way to transport according to someone who had done some serious miles with a laser on rougher roads in AUS. Both bunks are perpendicular to the centerline of the boat. I also like being able to inspect the bottom, put the bottom cover on easily etc.

I have a small arm at the front of the trailer that swings out to the side about a foot. If the boat is on the trailer, I can then tie my bow eye to it and lift the boat from the stern, off the trailer bunks, directly onto it's gunnel on the dolly. I then air flip from the stern (just like if you had a friend) while my attachment holds the bow for a split second and the boat is then on the dolly. Reverse process for self-loading - bring the dolly close to the trailer, tie the eye to the attachment, flip the boat on the dolly, lift the stern to the trailer. Of course, you can skip all that if you have an extra hand nearby.

Some of the rite-on systems etc. looked good, but I feel better about mine traveling deck down... would be annoyed about arriving at regattas with rock chips in the hull etc. I know it's highly unlikely though. Deck up is more practical I think and you can stack a couple boats that way.
 
I had a chance to briefly talk with the builders at LP and they suggested the same thing, I've heard some bad things about transporting on the gunwales for long distances from them and from boat repair guys

I think I see why, because if it's all about surface area, if you have 4-8" piece of metal supporting the boat by the gunwales there is a lot of force in a small area, even if it is the strongest part of the boat that's not good when you hit some bumps

if you spread out the force on the deck by supporting it with plenty of surface area and padding, then it spreads out the load evenly and won't damage the boat.

you can test this theory with your hand, take your pointer finger and push it into a flat hard surface, then with equal force do the same thing with your hand flat on the surface, you'll notice a huge difference
 
One other thing is you can remove leaf springs from your trailer to allow it to shock absorb better if it's designed for greater weights as is.
 

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