Laser Original Rigging

edesmaison

New Member
Hi,

I'm new racing Laser and I've just bought a Laser but the lines and rigging are in terrible conditions, can anyone give me ALL the specification and improvements I can do to my original Laser Rigging and how to put them in the boat? I had started racing and with strong wind I can simply not adjust the Outhaul as I don't know also if I'm putting it in the right way.

Thanks
 
Ok thanyou very much, but does anyone knows how to imporove to maximum the capacities of the original systems? (of course everything legal for racing) and maybe length of those 'extra' lines, and size of wire blocks and type? Please I'm travelling on thursday and I need specification to buy them.


See you soon,
 
edesmaison said:
Ok thanyou very much, but does anyone knows how to imporove to maximum the capacities of the original systems? (of course everything legal for racing) and maybe length of those 'extra' lines, and size of wire blocks and type? Please I'm travelling on thursday and I need specification to buy them.

APS will be glad to help you, I imagine:

http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d90000/e87620.asp

but I wouldn't buy a clew strap since a newfangled system should be available soon (by Christmas?)
 
For a 6-1 cunningham - you will need to buy:
one Harken 16mm block with becket, one Harken 16mm block
3' of 1/8" 12 strand Spectra line
14' of 5/32" braided line such as Maffoli New Swift

You will be setting up the cunningham more or less exactly like the new rigging setup.

The outhaul is much harder to describe and there are many ways to use blocks in place of the loops/thimbles. Here is one way:
You need three 16mm Harken blocks - one is tied to the clew of the sail (or put on a shackle or quick release hook). The other two take the place of the rope/thimble loops forward of the outhaul cleat as shown in the following diagram http://www.apsltd.com/ImagePopup.asp?id=9929
You also need the 22' of line as shown in the diagram.

Adding blocks to the vang is the hardest to describe but probably the easiest to modify - I'll try and post a pic later
 
OK, so I should replace all the thimbles by 16mm small harken blocks, that's what you mean and replace as many as I can also?And the safe line for the mast were can I tie it?
 
Why not get all of this stuff from George & Co at West Coast Sailing instead of from APS? If you look up at the top of this page, you'll see that WCS advertises here and thus supports the forum.

I don't have any connection to WCS, except that I have never had anything but great service from them...and free shipping!
 
If you have the older style rigging and vang, and you want to upgrade,
I suggest that you get the new style vang kit (V20015) and the
cunningham/outhaul upgrade kit (V20014). These come with new
lines and instructions.

IMO the upgrades are easier to rig.

The only remaining lines beyond that are the mainsheet, traveler, and
daggerboard shock cord. You need to buy these seperately from the kits.

In order to use the new vang you may need to drill the mast tang hole to
1/4" or you can use a smaller clevis pin temporarily. (You can use the existing
clevis pin from the older vang until you get the tang hole drilled.)

Here are the sizes for the new 'Pro' style laser lines (also known as 2001 performance upgrades):

MAINSHEET 7MM ROOSTER BLACK 46'
MAST TIE IN 1/8" OR 3MM DYNEEMA BLACK 2.5
TRAVELLER 3/16" OR 5MM DYNAMIC BLUE 11'
CUNNINGHAM PRIMARY 1/8" OR 3MM DYNAMIC RED 3'
CUNNINGHAM SECONDARY 3/16" OR 5MM SPRINTLINE ORANGE 13'
CLEW TIE DOWN 3/16" OR 5MM DYNAMIC BLUE 2'
DAGGERBOARD RETAINER 3/16" OR 5MM SHOCKCORD RED 10'
OUTHAUL SECONDARY 3/16" OR 5MM SPRINTLINE BLUE 18'
OUTHAUL PRIMARY 1/8" OR 3MM DYNAMIC RED 10'
VANG PRIMARY 1/8" OR 3MM DYNAMIC RED 4.5'
VANG SECONDARY 3/16" OR 5MM DYNEEMA RED 14'
OUTHAUL RETAINER 3MM DYNAMIC RED 2'
 
If you're using the old standard parts, just get two of those metalic things that you put in loops to reduce friction and then put them both on the *mastside* of the outhall cleet, then run the outhaul around the mast, to the loop closest to the cleet and then back to the other cleet.
I think that should be reasonably easy to understand, at least if you can test it out on a boat.
 
Fig 2 on the page that Laser76489 links to is the cheapeast vang change I've come across that works - It's one additional block. You can reduce the friction a little more if you replace the top block to a block with two shives, or hang a block on the top block so that the line does not have to rotate on the pin. But it works ok in all but heavy air even using the pin as a bearing point.
 
That's a page from the old drLaser site - hopefully they got permission to copy it and put it on their site, otherwise I would recommend printing it now in case Shevy forces them to remove it in the future

Also note that a few of the diagrams have since been ruled legal or illegal.

For example Fig 12 and 13, 21 are illegal as rigged.

Fig 16 is now legal (the part about a block with two shives) and with the addition of a block attached to the clew is the outhaul system I tried to describe above
 
edesmaison said:
OK, so I should replace all the thimbles by 16mm small harken blocks, that's what you mean and replace as many as I can also?And the safe line for the mast were can I tie it?

Yes, that's what I mean - however a poster here linked to a great page with diagrams that shows easier ways to do the outhual

As far as the mast rentention line - you should be able to tie that in to the cunningham fairlead and criss-crossed around the vang tang almost the same as the new rigging. Use the thinnest 12 strand spectra you can find. (the stuff Opti's use for sail ties, or thinner)
 
In the link posted by Laser76489 where do you tie the blue line of Fig. 2 diagram? And I think I understand that the pink line is tied to the pin where the lower block of the vang is attached is that correct?

Is figure 11 of the cunningham LEGAL?

An dFinally figure 16 shows a complex outhaul system but you just live the loop for pulling it hanging from the small block?
 
edesmaison said:
In the link posted by Laser76489 where do you tie the blue line of Fig. 2 diagram? And I think I understand that the pink line is tied to the pin where the lower block of the vang is attached is that correct?

Is figure 11 of the cunningham LEGAL?

An dFinally figure 16 shows a complex outhaul system but you just live the loop for pulling it hanging from the small block?

In fig 2 (the vang) tie off the ends of both lines around the vang attachment point on the mast

Fig 11 is legal, but you may not have enough adjustment. It's doubtful you need that much purchase either - 6-1 seems to be the accepted amount when using blocks these days. Its very easy to change fig 11 to a 6-1 - get rid of the middle cascade and tie the smaller block with the becket directly to the line coming thru the cunningham hole in the sail.

For the Outhaul - yes in Fig 16, you just leave the loop for tightening hanging off the boom - just like the old days...
 

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