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Laser on side


That should be fine.

I stored my Laser on its side like that for around 5 years. Just make sure that you put some padding both on the floor and between the hull and the wall to protect it.

Coastal Redneck

Active Member
Better yet, build a simple wooden cradle using spiling methods to draw the exact curve of the rail, then pad the cradle... closed-cell foam works just fine, or you can use neoprene, a Mexican blanket, whatever. Any fasteners used to tack on padding should be fastened to either side of the cradle, not where the rail rests, otherwise you might scratch up the rail. This storage option is the best in my opinion, unless you have room to store the boat in a padded cradle upon a trailer... not an option every small craft sailor has. I used this system for decades and it never had any adverse effect upon the hull itself. I used to remove the plug and leave all hatches open to air out the hull, keeping the boat under a tarp on the north side of my former beach cottage... solar abuse shouldn't be an issue if you're storing your boat in a garage. :rolleyes:

David 1973

New Member
Thanks guys. Building a rolling dolly using a sheetrock dolly to roll between car and wall. I hope to transfer from Seitech dolly ( on the grass in my yard) to Sheetrock dolly and roll in garage. The padding info is very helpful because I worried about curve. Using a 4ft long dock bumper ( 48” X 4” tall X3” wide) bolted to front edge of dolly to keep boat from sliding off front. Since the base ( 12” wide) of the SRdolly is steel I am working on how to pad it. Found some bumpers on amazon that are 20” X 8” x 2” thick from Hull Hugr but thus flat. So still working on curve. Not sure what “closed cell foam“is or where to get it or what form it comes in. Research ha ha

Coastal Redneck

Active Member
Those sleeping pads for camping will work, the blue ones you can buy at WallyWorld... pool noodles will work too, depending upon how you construct or modify your dolly. Look into 'spiling'---a simple way to transfer the exact curve of your hull to a piece of wood, using a ruler or stick with a pencil or Sharpie taped to it. I always flip the boat and set her level on some support before drawing the curve... hold or secure the wood level atop & athwart the hull, and hold the ruler or stick upright as you transfer the curve. Maybe someone else uses a different method, my brother always used a flat washer but that was for smaller projects... he'd roll the washer along with a pencil or marker in the closest part of the hole. The ruler or stick method works better for larger objects like boat hulls. Once you obtain the exact curve, use power saw & sander to create the curve in the wood... for various cradles, I'd use anything from 2" x 6" to 2" x 10" beams, doubling up the beams on each end and sanding everything smooth before installing the padding. Done right, you wind up with a perfect cradle for your boat, and it's an inexpensive alternative to working with metal. Hope this helps and is not too confusing... somewhere at this site, I believe I've posted shots of wooden cradles I built, each painted cradle bolted to the metal trailer frame below. :cool:

Signal Charlie & others have posted pics of boats stored or hauled in suspension, with boat hulls resting on straps (or lines with pool noodles) in midair, another possible way for you to store your boat if you make the necessary mods to your dolly. Cheers!!! :rolleyes: