Just bought a Sunfish. (lots of pics.)

Thread starter #21
I believe you are right...

SNAJ78177302

SNA ... Mfg ID ( SNARK BOATS - Parent Company: MEYERS BOAT CO INC )
J7817 .... Internal production coding number
73 ... Boat Model Year
02 ... Month Built

... the model year and build month sequence appear to have been erroneously swapped from the legal format, based on, you couldn’t have a month 73. But, that was the first year a USCG Hull ID was required so they may have been confused by the gummit instructions.

I've also seen other brand boats at the beginning of Hull Id's with the number stamped in the upper left of the transom.

So, that confirms the rudder's origin.

.

Thank you for the information, now I was wondering, where would the serial for my boat be at? Was it located in the same area, meaning it is no longer there?
 
Thread starter #24
I was just thinking, are all of the paints I'd use on my boat roll on application? Because I have a spray gun, and would be interested in using it if possible. So do they make marine paints that can be sprayed with the gun? The gun i have is a cheap one, and I know you have to thin the paint a bit to use it.
 

Wayne

Member Emeritus
#25
. . .do they make marine paints that can be sprayed with the gun?
Here’s what Interlux says for their Brightsides paint (one frequently chosen for painting Sunfish)
Other brands have similar, but sometimes slightly different requirements. It’s best to follow the specific instructions for the brand paint you select.

[ from the Interlux Brightsides Data Sheet ]
Application Details [partial] – Brightside [one part] Polyurethane

Method of application: Airless Spray / Brush / Conventional Spray / Roller (Roll & Tip)

Number of Coats:
2 minimum

Coverage:
(Theoretical) - 550 (ft²/Gal) by brush, 440 (ft²/Gal) by spray


Preparation

BARE FIBERGLASS: [clean, paint free, crack free gelcoat is "bare fiberglass"]

In Good Condition
Begin by scrubbing well using soap and water and a stiff brush. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry. Wipe a small area with a clean rag that has been wetted with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. While the surface is still wet, wipe with a clean, dry rag. Continue this process until the entire surface has been cleaned. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue.

In Poor Condition
Clean as above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Apply Brightside Primer.


Application

Ventilation and Humidity Control
It is best to paint on warm, dry mornings. Cold weather retards the drying and humidity can spoil the gloss.


Spray

Airless Spray
Pressure: 170 bar/2500 psi. Tip Size: 0.33-0.41 mm/13-16 thou.

Conventional Spray
Pressure Pot: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi (gun pressure); 8-10 psi (pot pressure). Tip Size: 0.89-1.4 mm/35-50 thou. Siphon Cup: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi - gun pressure. Tip Size: 1.5-1.8 mm/60-70 thou.

Other
Spray pressures listed are recommendations only. The applicator may use any settings which yield the best results for the individual spraying technique and current weather conditions. Brightside is best applied in thin coats. [dry coat thickness, 1.2 mils or 0.0012"]

Important Points
Do not apply heavy coats as this will affect dry through. Failure to follow proper dry times carefully will cause improper drying, wrinkling and loss of adhesion. Avoid painting in direct sunlight. Product temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 29°C/85°F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 35°C/95°F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 29°C/85°F.

Full text …
https://secure.international-coatings.com/pds/yacht/GB_ISO_I_5000165.htm
 
Thread starter #26
Well I took it out twice this weekend, looks like I may need a new bailer plug, mine seems to seep around it. But otherwise, it works and I didn't have any problems, both sails work fine and the boat didn't take on too much water. So this weekend was a success, now I just need to buy some more pulleys and set up a rigging system thats better to use.
 

beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
#27
Regarding painting stripes on the deck - getting free paint from a boat shop is best. But I have had success with painting stripes on after a repair with hardware store spray paints, which are probably $5 per can. I used an enamel, but have heard Krylon will work too. To get a good bond with the deck, get the very deck clean, then swab it with acetone, then put on masking tape, then spray. I have had my boom drag across my painted stripes many times with no problem. Just be sure the paint is designed for indoor-outdoor use.

BB
 
Thread starter #28
Hopefully this weekend I will get around to installing the port hole and new cleat I just bought. I will also check the inside while I'm at it and see if everything it good or not.
 
Thread starter #29
Well, this weekend has been a very expensive weekend for me. I bought Paint! I bought a quart of "West Marine" primer for $30. West Marine is the store I went to. And then I bought a quart of Red Interlux Brightside and a quart of White Interlux Brightside, each quart was $30. I plan on painting the top red and the bottom white for now. I also ended buying a gallon of "west marine" resin for $30 and a package of fiberglass cloth. So $140 later I have resin and paint.

This week I plan on adding at least one port hole, to check the inside. Then I will dry the hull out and start sanding the bottom.

Would it be okay to resin the entire bottom? Or I may use a lot of resin to make the bottom smooth. As you can see in the pics, it's been patched a bit and I'd like to make it smooth at least. I'm not too worried about weight since I'm recreational only.

Then I plan on using a roller and applying primer and then the paint to the bottom. Do the same thing on the top. I may even remove the trim and resin the holes and then rerivet the trim on. I need to do this to the inside trim since it's starting to come off already.

BTW: I bought a gallon of resin because it was only $10 more than a quart and I figured I'd be able to use it somehow.

Also, if anyone has links to a really inexpensive sail, I'm checking out options right now. It doesn't need to be class legal.

Thanks for the help guys, I really love this forum. I spend way too much time on here and my s10forum.
 
Thread starter #30
Well, here is my plan of action as of now.

1. I'm going to remove the trim, both on the cockpit and on the outer lip of the boat.
2. Sand down the entire top and bottom.
3. Cut holes for port holes and do mock up.
4. Resin the boat, fix small holes and smooth bottom and top. Also add resin around the mast tube.
5. Primer the boat.
6. Paint the top of the boat red and the bottom white.
7. Reinstall the trim.
8. Install new cleat, pulley, port holes etc.....
9. Hopefully sail it.

I've got a lot of work ahead of me, so does anyone know if I'll be okay with putting a thing layer of resin on the bottom, the complete thing? I want to give the hull a little extra protection, which is why I ask. Thanks.
 

Wayne

Member Emeritus
#31
I'll be okay with putting a thin layer of resin on the bottom, the complete thing? I want to give the hull a little extra protection, which is why I ask. Thanks.
Just painting on a coat of resin is not recommended. Without reinforcement and only an adhesive bond to the underlying ... what, gelcoat, bare structural fiberglass ... it will crack away in a short time.

I think you would be more successful laying down an epoxy paint under coat.





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Thread starter #32
Interesting, well, for now I'll just sand and see how everything looks, I did buy fiberglass cloth. I mainly want to smooth the areas that have been patched so the bottom flows more evenly.
 
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