capndar
there's too much to see waiting in front of me...
Or one(s) to avoid?
Is there a best model year for racing?
- Thread starter capndar
- Start date
If you go to any major event you will notice that most of the boats, and certainly almost all of the top 10 finishers (with some glaring exceptions, including one of the best in the history of the class) have boats built in the past twenty years. Some folks say to avoid the Pearson built boats - about '88 to '91 with ' PSB' serial numbers - and I might agree, though I had one for years and was fine with it ( but I wouldn't particularly want it back, either).
Much more important is condition of the boat, and the racing equipment that comes with it. Weight and hull condition are extremely important. Be sure to weigh the hull and inspect it carefully. Check that the foam blocks aren't detached ( see the recent thread about the case where the adhesive detached from exuberant pressure testing) and that here isn't too much flex. For racing, I would not buy a boat that has been painted.
Older boats can be very competitive, and there are some wonderful examples around, but It would be rare indeed for a top sailor to purchase a pre-90's used boat for racing. I've had persistant quality problems with the one newer Laser Performance boat that I've bought, and though it looks terrific it has problems I never could resolve ( even under warranty). That's just my experience and probably not representative of these newer boats, though I still would never waste that kind of money again on another Laser Performance Sunfish.
Make sure you have the new style rudder, if the hull is older. Make sure you get a new-style, flawless racing board. It's not hard to spend more on a new racing board, new racing sail, and rudder upgrade - not to mention all the things like the mainsheet block and such, topnotch condition spars -than on the hull itself, so look for a boat that is complete, if possible.
Be careful of ads that say 'race ready' unless you have the famiarity to know what you want for racing, because sellers' interpretations of what that mean vary widely. The best bet is to have someone who races look at any boat with you.
Better yet, the people you race with may know of boats for sail. The best deals at our club have been boats that members are selling for one reason or another, where the boat (and in our cases the owner) is well known to us. When members do sell, they often sell to other members at attractive prices.
Former Sunfish Worlds boats have been popular with folks I race with (including the Buffalo boats, due to their sails), and those worlds boats are usually nicely race equipped.
What you will likely find if you are starting out racing, is that after a couple of years you will have a much better idea of what you really want, just as with any sport.
Good luck.
Much more important is condition of the boat, and the racing equipment that comes with it. Weight and hull condition are extremely important. Be sure to weigh the hull and inspect it carefully. Check that the foam blocks aren't detached ( see the recent thread about the case where the adhesive detached from exuberant pressure testing) and that here isn't too much flex. For racing, I would not buy a boat that has been painted.
Older boats can be very competitive, and there are some wonderful examples around, but It would be rare indeed for a top sailor to purchase a pre-90's used boat for racing. I've had persistant quality problems with the one newer Laser Performance boat that I've bought, and though it looks terrific it has problems I never could resolve ( even under warranty). That's just my experience and probably not representative of these newer boats, though I still would never waste that kind of money again on another Laser Performance Sunfish.
Make sure you have the new style rudder, if the hull is older. Make sure you get a new-style, flawless racing board. It's not hard to spend more on a new racing board, new racing sail, and rudder upgrade - not to mention all the things like the mainsheet block and such, topnotch condition spars -than on the hull itself, so look for a boat that is complete, if possible.
Be careful of ads that say 'race ready' unless you have the famiarity to know what you want for racing, because sellers' interpretations of what that mean vary widely. The best bet is to have someone who races look at any boat with you.
Better yet, the people you race with may know of boats for sail. The best deals at our club have been boats that members are selling for one reason or another, where the boat (and in our cases the owner) is well known to us. When members do sell, they often sell to other members at attractive prices.
Former Sunfish Worlds boats have been popular with folks I race with (including the Buffalo boats, due to their sails), and those worlds boats are usually nicely race equipped.
What you will likely find if you are starting out racing, is that after a couple of years you will have a much better idea of what you really want, just as with any sport.
Good luck.
Excellent response.
Let me just add that it isn't really necessary to buy a 100% 'race-ready' boat. One can upgrade a solid, dry boat with the cleats for outhaul and cunningham at minimal cost. And add the necessary lines.
A race sail and the 'plastic fantastic' daggerboard are more expensive items to consider in case the boat doesn't come with those.
Let me just add that it isn't really necessary to buy a 100% 'race-ready' boat. One can upgrade a solid, dry boat with the cleats for outhaul and cunningham at minimal cost. And add the necessary lines.
A race sail and the 'plastic fantastic' daggerboard are more expensive items to consider in case the boat doesn't come with those.
Oh, almost forgot- if you are planning to travel regattas racing (rather than strictly club racing a local club).keep in mind t you will want Seitech dolly. At any major event you ever travel t o, you will find that 'everybody' has them, and you will quickly discover why. Especially if you are buying a newer boat, it quite possibly came with one anyway. Be sure to ask if it comes with one. Price out new ones online and you will see why, if you can get one included in the deal, it's worth trying to get included.
As wavedancer noted, if you are racing you will want the class racing sail and racing daggerboard (not a wooden board, and not rather misleadingly labeled 'class legal' non- racing sail you sometimes see advertised). These two items together can set you back a grand if purchased separately, new, and you will want both in order to be ompetitive.
If you are going to get into racing, spring for the USSCA membership sooner rather than later. Among other things, the Sunfish class will issue you your own unique numbers for your sail. Those are your numbers forever. You will need a current membership for major events, regionals and such.
As wavedancer noted, if you are racing you will want the class racing sail and racing daggerboard (not a wooden board, and not rather misleadingly labeled 'class legal' non- racing sail you sometimes see advertised). These two items together can set you back a grand if purchased separately, new, and you will want both in order to be ompetitive.
If you are going to get into racing, spring for the USSCA membership sooner rather than later. Among other things, the Sunfish class will issue you your own unique numbers for your sail. Those are your numbers forever. You will need a current membership for major events, regionals and such.