Is my boat in good condition?

sailor1994

New Member
Hi everyone, im new to the laser forum

so i got a laser a few weeks ago, according to the original owner the boat is a 1974. I am so excited to have a laser but something that has been on my mind is how safe is the boat.2 important factors are that ill probably be taking the boat out on windy days (15-20mph winds) and I will most likely be sailing the boat by myself so having a boat that isnt going to break is very important especially because if something happens there will be no chase boat or help. Below are pictures of the mast step outside and inside, cockpit/hull joint, and hull. What i hope to acheive by posting this is to have people look at the pictures and tell me what looks good and what needs to be reinforced/repaired. PLEASE !, if i didnt take a picture of something thats important please tell me and ill get a picture up as soon as possible!

a few notes...

1. the stern of the boat, there are soft spots, no by where the rudder mounts are and not on the edges but everywhere from those points in. its not extremely stiff like the hull but it flexes in then pressed, is this normal? and should it be repaired or is it fine?

2. will painting the boat with 2 layers of primer then a topcoat fill in the spider cracks or will i have to fill in the cracks then add the paint. and how long will the paintjob last


Thank you so much in advance
 

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The pictures look like the boat is ready to sail, It might not seem like it but lasers are built pretty well, the main thing to worry about is the condition of the mast step because if that fails and you're out solo you'll have a real tough time getting in. You'll also want to inspect all the spars for corrosion and weak spots. If the hull leaks the boat won't sink and you will still be able to sail back in (although it won't handle as well)
 
yea, the mast step is my main concern. how does it look, does it look sturdy or does it look like it can break?

thanks everyone
 
It would be best to take a photo of the mast step just above deck level so we can see around the top of it for any wear, cracks or stretch in the fibreglass because these would all be very bad if you were considering going out in the winds you suggested. Like LaserXD said check the spars thoroughly to look for any rust around rivet holes, wear or cracks. Another thing you will want to make sure that its ok is the rudder pintles and the rudder gudgeon. Basically both parts of where the rudder fits on (on the rudder and the boat).
 
outer mast step...

had a hole repaired, after that it didnt leak any water (patched hole is seen clearly in picture 3)

and the spars are in great condition from what iv seen, no rust, no wear, and no cracks
 

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outer mast step...

had a hole repaired, after that it didnt leak any water (patched hole is seen clearly in picture 3)

and the spars are in great condition from what iv seen, no rust, no wear, and no cracks

Can you see on the inside-the-hull surface of that repaired spot on the mast step? I had one tiny hole visible in my mast step that leaked. It turned out not to be just one little hole but a network of cracks in an area roughly 3" wide x 4" or 5" tall going up to the joint with the deck. Get the view from inside the hull to make sure the mast step is sound from that angle, too.
 
Yep the top of the mast step looks in perfect condition!!! As long as the repaired hole doesn't leak or contribute to any structural weakness in the mast step. Also what about the rudder fittings???
 
the rudder fitting are in great condition,the metal shows no signs of rust or wear and the boat didnt come with a rudder so the fitting on the rudder head will be brand new
 
I've got a 74 as well!

Fun little secret, when my hull is dry it's about 5 pounds lighter than a 2010 Laser :D

Don't paint the boat. It's heavy and in my opinion, always looks worse than a distressed gelcoat. Wetsand it to get rid of the "Chalk" and you're good to go.
 
I just picked up a green 1977. Doing similar "seaworthiness" analysis right now. Mounting new gudgeons and inspection port/cover this weekend. The cubitainers are all shot, but can't stomach the 25$ per that West Coast Sailing wants. Considering shoving some pool noodles in there for now. Only question is how many... Hope to get it on the water this weekend.
 
I wouldn't go with pool noodles: lots and lots would be needed to provide the same buoyancy as the cubitainers, plus they're spongy. When your laser leaks they'll hold onto moisture and release it slowly enough to promote mildew growth and rot of the plywood parts of your laser, such as the structure supporting the cockpit and the transom. I replaced my cubitainers with five of these five gallon water jugs from walmart at about $6 apiece:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trails-5-gallon-fold-a-carrier-water-container/10098757
 
mate, my 1976 Laser is in much worse condition, with severe wear inside the mast tube, gel-coat cracks, etc, and I have had no conerns about the hull in strong winds. I've often sailed in 20-30 knots for training. One day I recorded a GPS speed of 15knots, then snapped the old top-section in the next gust. All good fun.
Actually I'm looking at getting it out on the ocean for some fun in 20knot winds and 2m+ swells. Would be so much fun!
I have had to change the old screwed-in fittings to bolt-through, after each ripped out of the deck.
I used "Plasti-bond" to fill gel-coat cracks & defects on the bottom of the hull, then block sanded to 2400 grit & then polished. It's not as-new in appearance, but formed a perfect sailing surface without adding weight.
Don't stress, don't paint it; just get out there and have fun!
 
First of all, welcome aboard and welcome to the world of Lasers, and a question. I noticed in one of the pictures that there is water in the boat. Any idea how it got there?

Now, since you asked at the beginning of this thread, I will give you my two cents. IMHO, any laser that is over 20 years old should have the mast tube reinforced. The reason is that the wad of bondo (a.k.a. the doughnut) that was used when the boat was assembled absorbs moisture over time and the plywood block that is glassed into the hull is subjected to tremendous shear stresses. Also, if there was no wear plate in the bottom of the tube (and these were not around in 1974) then the bottom of the mast will grind into the gelcoat and cause it to fail and eventually leak. Lastly, the forward corner of the mast step bottom will also grind its way into the forward bottom of the tube and this too will be a source of leaks. Given the age of the boat, my guess is that one or more of these things has happened or will happen. I have done a number of these and most of the time, the bondo "doughnut" will fracture into pieces when you pry on the bottom of it with a small chisel. There is an abundance of information regarding how to do this and because it is below the deck, it does not have to look pretty.

Secondly, if you have an inspection port next to the daggerboard trunk, then through-bolt your mainsheet block/hiking strap. One less thing to worry about. Check the padeyes in the after bulkhead and make sure they are tight for the same reason. Also check the padeyes on your boom and make sure the rivets are not pulling out. Ditto the vang strap on the mast and key strap on the boom. Check your upper spar for a permanent bend. Check the underside of the gunwale for cracks or separation between the hull and deck. The picture of the hull shows discoloration in this area - any reason for that?

I am like you in that I frequently go out without a crash boat and here in Maine the water can get some cold. Nothing is perfect or bulletproof, but it is a lot more fun knowing that you have looked at and addressed what you could in advance instead of experiencing a nsaty surprise. HTH.
 

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