installing racing cleats on boom

#21
The stringers are inside the boat and minimize hull flex. It's highly doubtful that anyone is ever going to race a 1971 hull seriously, and that modification/fix really put some life back into the boat. If you want/need more information, let me know, and I will open a separate thread.

The velcro you see is the peel and stick kind, and I use it to mount a small compasses on either side of the boat. There are actually two pieces fore and aft on either side, so depending on different conditions, I will use one or the other. The compasses were left over from a different boat, so I decided to put them back to work on the Sunfish.

You will also notice the anti-skid tape on the deck. I found that after cleaning the boat the side deck was just too slippery, and so I added two strips on either side and that solved the problem. It was a bear to get the arcs just right, but if I do say so, I think they look pretty good now.
 

mixmkr

Active Member
#22
L&VW....they have bath tub, peel and stick, daisy flowers, you might prefer over the side deck strips!!!!!
:)

( if you have a 60's boat) !!!!
:)
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#23
The sail I show in the pictures is from Intensity, which is described as a having a racing cut. I don't have another sail, so without measuring it I'm just taking their word.
I've had both, and the racing sail definitely has a resting "blouse affect" at the foot. Perhaps the Intensity can be "coaxed" into an acceptable shape by selective ties, rather than using the factory's supplied clips exclusively. (Tighter in the middle of the foot).

The stringers are inside the boat and minimize hull flex. It's highly doubtful that anyone is ever going to race a 1971 hull seriously, and that modification/fix really put some life back into the boat. If you want/need more information, let me know, and I will open a separate thread.
With three Sunfish, I'm sure to try longitudinals out on one of them. ;)

Why not use readily-available fiberglass stringers?
 
#24
Why not use readily-available fiberglass stringers?[/QUOTE]

Hi LVW,

I think the answer to your question is twofold in that it never occurred to me to buy something preformed, and that I already had the materials I needed to create what I wanted.

I created the stringers by first cutting foam foundations on my table saw and then epoxying them then midway between the foam blocks and the keel. I think the foam foundations were about 1" x 1" by 30" or 36", I would have to look. I then used carbon fiber tape over that to form the stringers. The tape was maybe 4" or so, so the carbon fiber extends on either side of the foundation by quite a bit and forms a nice strong shape.

I will take pictures tomorrow and post in separate thread.
 
Thread starter #26
Carey:
To prevent confusion, the vang doesn't need a new cleat. We use the halyard for that and it is tied to the cleat on the deck.
The 'downhaul' for the luff of the sail (usually referred to as Cunningham) is tied to a cleat on the boom that is not standard on older boats.
And yes, use the photos on the Starboard Passage site (see above) for clarification.


See also
http://www.laserperformance.global/product_images/pdf/Sunfish Rigging Guide.pdf
got it thank you! however my deck cleat is pulling up and out even after rescrewing with #10 deck screws and 5200. I might need to look at the block underneath.
 
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#27
Carey,

Take one screw out of the deck cleat and loosen the other and rotate. Put some epoxy (fiberglass) in the hole and when dry, redrill and put the cleat back in place and tighten. Then repeat for the other screw.
 
Thread starter #28
Carey - do you have a racing sail? The standard sails I would not bother with cleats. The racing sails are fuller cut and the cleats allow for better shaping of the sail for different sailing conditions.
yes I just purchased a used racing sail North sails
 
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Thread starter #29
Thank you everyone for all the responses. I have a N/S racing sail and an Intensity practice sail. I will only use cleats for downhaul and outhaul. I am just getting used to this forum and was having trouble responding...but I think I have it figured out now.
 
#32
I would add the mast cleat no matter what. it's a much more direct connection structurally, and takes almost the entire halyard tension off the fiberglass deck.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#33
I would add the mast cleat no matter what. it's a much more direct connection structurally, and takes almost the entire halyard tension off the fiberglass deck.
Very good idea, but I've found placing a cam cleat next to the cockpit eases hoisting—with no unsteady kneeling on the deck needed. The tension at the cam cleat (and the factory fairlead) is "in shear", and there's no evidence of damage from tension. Except for the necessary effort in releasing the halyard, a cheaper clam cleat would work just as easily.
 
#34
Very good idea, but I've found placing a cam cleat next to the cockpit eases hoisting—with no unsteady kneeling on the deck needed. The tension at the cam cleat (and the factory fairlead) is "in shear", and there's no evidence of damage from tension. Except for the necessary effort in releasing the halyard, a cheaper clam cleat would work just as easily.
Hi lvw,

I use a mast cleat for the reasons tag mentions, but I also like it because I can use the loose end of the halyard as a boom vang. With the halyard tied to the mast, I can have the vang as loose or as tight as I want without worrying about halyard tension. Do you use a boom can't with your arrangement, and if so can you tell us how it works?

Thanks.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#36
Not unusual in the Phantom, from which I got the idea.

Hi lvw,

I use a mast cleat for the reasons tag mentions, but I also like it because I can use the loose end of the halyard as a boom vang. With the halyard tied to the mast, I can have the vang as loose or as tight as I want without worrying about halyard tension. Do you use a boom can't with your arrangement, and if so can you tell us how it works?

Thanks.
I'd like to add a proper vang block and line, leading the line through the Sunfish deck cleat to a cam cleat near the cockpit. (To join the halyard cam cleat that is already in place).
 
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