Inspection Ports

Walter Cotting

New Member
I have had a blast with a new-to-me older sunfish this summer and just garaged it for the winter. I opened the deck drain screw, tipped the boat on it's side, and a half-cup of water came out. I have read that you can't always remove all the water that way. The boat has the rear storage compartment off the cockpit and no inspection ports currently.
I am contemplating adding inspection ports this winter to aid in drying it out. Thinking of adding one or two in the front wall of the cockpit and not sure about the stern.
Looking for some reccomendations of what, if anything, should be done.
Also found a link on this forum to a site that shows the internal foam locations, but it does not work. I have seen this around somewhere but can't find it now. Any ideas?
 
How much does your boat weigh?

If it isn't supper heavy, just air test and find the leak so you don't get more in.
 
I would start with one port up front, about half way between the daggerboard slot and the coaming, with the left side of the port on the centerline of the hull. That should allow you to evaluate the situation.

As far as the construction of the hull is concerned, look under
Sunfish Knowledge Base
General information
Construction
 
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My bias has always install a 6" dia, port centered forward of the daggerboard trunk and aft of the inner "V" of the splashrail as this port gives you access to the mast hole and the daggerboard trunk if you ever have a problem with these two structures. Then install a 4" dia. port centered on the aft deck under the tiller as this will give you access to the deck eyes for the mainsheet bridle if they ever pull out (it happens). If you want a complete dry out, buy a 6" dia duct fan at Home Depot, Lowes etc, and run it through the hull for a few months with both ports open. If you do this outside, be sure to tape screen over the 4" port opening to keep critters out of the hull. There will be foam blocks under your port openings in both of these locations; just saw through the foam with a long sabre saw blade. It will not affect the integrity of the hull.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
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I'm curious why LP never thought to build these into the boats in the factory. Is it the one-design nature of the boat? Ignoring a practical solution? Cost?
 
haha. Oh. I guess I've acclimated to the "reality" in forums seeing: leaky boat, made inspection ports, drying out my boat so often I started to think this was the norm. heh.
 
If all you got was 1/2 cup of water and the boat doesn't weigh over 139 pounds, I'd leave it alone and just drain it after each sail.
 
Anyone ever install a 6" one of these??

Just scored one on eBay. Hoping I can get it between the splash guard and centerboard trunk without to much problem.

Stow-Away™ Deck Plate bags by Beckson

DP-Bags600.jpg
 
Anyone ever install a 6" one of these??

Just scored one on eBay. Hoping I can get it between the splash guard and centerboard trunk without to much problem.

Stow-Away™ Deck Plate bags by Beckson

I'd given up on finding a replacement for my 6" Holt & Allen "bayonet" mount inspection port, which has been badly degraded by weather and sun. However, a lengthy Google search turned up one 6" model (AA13566) made by "Victory" (of Chinese manufacture). While it's not thoroughly waterproof, the cover does remove easily in a one-eighth turn of the wrist.

It also got me thinking that a rectangular port placed in the forward vertical bulkhead would fully accommodate forward storage of a floating "extendible-handle" paddle or a kayak "take-down" paddle. (And/or "The Guppy" propulsion device).

31N1nLLiLgL._SY355_.jpg
images
 
Intensity sails has another interesting option. It is an inspection port with a recessed water bottle holder built into the port cover. I'm thinking of going with that on either the fore deck or front cockpit wall. Won't hold a paddle but should keep a mojito safe yet readily available.
 
I found one of my two (used) rectangular ports, which is to (maybe) go into the forward bulkhead. :cool: They were expensive when new, but for $5 each, I couldn't pass them up at a marine flea market. :D

It's very strong, and not particularly heavy, so I won't use the matching interior trim—which would double its weight. I haven't decided whether to mount it with the hinge up or down, but I will be needing three nylon wing-nuts (or round knobs) to "dog the hatch". It has a rubber seal, and I expect to bolt it in.

PB010028_zpsgzntjslp.jpg


This isn't the first time I've used a "different" inspection port!
First post; need help picking out car to tow Sunfish | Page 2 | SailingForums.com
 
Got my Beckson in the mail today. Here's a question.

Is it best to cut the hole in line with the centerboard trunk and tip of the splash rail or off to one side? I have read both ways on the forum here, what are the pros and cons of each?
 

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I have had a blast with a new-to-me older sunfish this summer and just garaged it for the winter. I opened the deck drain screw, tipped the boat on it's side, and a half-cup of water came out. I have read that you can't always remove all the water that way... Any ideas?

With only one cup of water, I'd say you really don't have a problem. However, you wouldn't do any harm by using a small aquarium air pump and a ¼" hose during the long off-season. Outside air would displace the moist internal air, and leave the hull through the center vent and past the ¼" hose.
 
Got my Beckson in the mail today. Here's a question.

Is it best to cut the hole in line with the centerboard trunk and tip of the splash rail or off to one side? I have read both ways on the forum here, what are the pros and cons of each?
See my earlier post (#3). You won't be able to work on the mast step from that location, but that wasn't the issue in this thread.
 
What about the block and deck cleat location? My deck cleat is missing, that is the main reason for the port to gain access, may change the pulley block to an eye eventually to but would like to gain access to everything in case problems arise later.

What advantage does the off center port give? Is there foam in the way?
 
To replace the pulley block the port will have to be in front of the splash guard, unless you have VERY long arms.
 
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I do.

Can it be reached linearly or is there something in the way?
There should be a piece of wood to back up the cleat, but other than that there's nothing in the way.
See
Sunfish Construction | SailingForums.com


Alan Glos likes a 6" port installed on the centerline (post #4). A bigger port will make it easier to replace the pulley. Just cut the hole and install the port once the work is done. Tape the hole temporarily so you don't get fiberglass on your arms etc.
 
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I do.

Can it be reached linearly or is there something in the way?

You can see it, it's just a long way up there. With the 6 inch port and some type of stick/tape/wedge you might be able to hold something in place long enough to get 2 screws in, and use adhesive to set the block first and let it dry.
 
What about the block and deck cleat location? My deck cleat is missing, that is the main reason for the port to gain access, may change the pulley block to an eye eventually to but would like to gain access to everything in case problems arise later.

What advantage does the off center port give? Is there foam in the way?

The foam on the sides starts about 3 rivets/screws from the tips of the splashguard and it is about 3 inches wide. The center, forward block is ahead of the mast tube.
 
What about the block and deck cleat location? My deck cleat is missing, that is the main reason for the port to gain access, may change the pulley block to an eye eventually to but would like to gain access to everything in case problems arise later.

What advantage does the off center port give? Is there foam in the way?

I don't see any advantage to an off center port. And leave the ring off until work is complete, that gives you more wiggle room. I suggest long sleeves as well.
 
Hi,

There is a Youtube vid on popping the front deck to get at the stuff in front of the boat. This would allow you to replace the cleat, bow handle and pully screws with nuts and bolts. Two part foam is needed to glue the center block back down to the deck but this seems easy in this situation. Then you could put your port behind the splash rail where it is most useful for sucking water out of the boat and storing lines and such. In fact, that's what I'm going to do to mine since the deck is already split from the hull.
 

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