I have a broken gugdeon bracket for porpose 2 what should i do?

Thread starter #1
Hi 0519191742a_HDR.jpg 0519191742_HDR.jpg i just bought a porpose 2 and the gugdeon bracket was broken and someone put epoxy on it to fix it and i have been trying to find a replacement part but i have had no luck. Any recondemations?
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#2
Porpoise II has been out of business for a very long time. I owned one, and have answered a number of Porpoise II questions here. Even with the most recent inquiry, I'd never seen what the Porpoise II gudgeon actually looked like!:oops:

I bought my Porpoise II with the later Sunfish stainless gudgeon attached, but mounted on a piece of wood. That eventually fractured, but you'll find the eventual, successful, repair among the many Porpoise II discussions on this Sunfish forum. :)
Search results for query: porpoise II, keep

If your Porpoise II has their proprietary metal loop on the tiller—and you use it—you will, at least, never lose the rudder. :cool:

Epoxy doesn't stick well to many plastics. :( You can try a product designed to repair plastic (which I'm guessing yours is). My :mad: know-it-all sailing buddy recommends the use of this product:

655-K-300x300[1].jpg

If it were mine...well, let's leave that repair for later—down-thread... ;)

Before I answer, I'm going to make the demand that you put your camera lens against the cockpit drain and, using a flash, take a photo down the tube. You could provide THE answer to a very persistent question! :( (Of mine).
 
#4
I think you may need to do a Sunfish rudder conversion- adding an inspection port at the stern, then switching out that broken gudgeon with a Sunfish gudgeon and backer plate. Of course, then you’ll need a (new style) Sunfish rudder. You can probably sell your Porpoise rudder to offset the costs some.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#5
Thanks! :)

The pictures (sorta) supports my "view" :rolleyes: that there's a round, black, plastic catch-bin of sorts, that the tube drains down into. (How about that :oops: ending a sentence with two prepositions!) :( Maybe that catch-bin runs long-enough to connect the hull's bottom with the cockpit, and it's not a cup after all. (?)

The last time I inquired at an aluminum foundry, they wanted $400 to cast a much larger object from a Styrofoam™ model. I doubt they can cast one from a plastic model, but the answer's only a phone-call away. They may ask that you bring your personally-sourced aluminum cans—and you'll need a lot of 'em! :eek:

Option #2 would be to fabricate a stainless plate over the existing break. Drill and bolt to affix.

Option #3 would be to (as above) convert to a new $12 Sunfish gudgeon and the $150 Sunfish tiller/rudder—used!:(

Without a scale in the photograph, it'd be difficult to advise if the Sunfish gudgeon can be drilled to fit the existing bolt-through hardware pattern. Yes, a piece of wood (Option #4) could fill in that space, to allow this Sunfish conversion. Otherwise, a port will need to be cut (and some Styrofoam™ support removed).

If the spacing between the existing bolts allows the Sunfish gudgeon to fit (in-between), you could use heavy stainless straps to hold the Sunfish gudgeon against the transom. Grind the new Sunfish gudgeon edges to fit? :cool: (And maybe retain the existing heavy white rubber-bumper material, which will otherwise shrink and fall-away whilst underway). AMHIK :oops: .

As seen at the bottom post here, Help identifying model year of a Porpoise II , a cut would need to be made through the fiberglass seam—behind the existing Porpoise II gudgeon. This is necessary to keep the Sunfish rudder at the correct operating height above the water.

Hold onto that rubber-bumper molding, it's not easy to replace!

Disclaimer: Stainless is easy to grind-away—but difficult to drill. Start with a USA-made drill bit. :cool:

Just remembered:

If necessary for easy removal, the existing bolts can be slotted on the ends using a $9.95 Harbor Freight grinder, and buying their $7 assortment:rolleyes: of grinding discs. Use a screwdriver in the slot to use a wrench.

Keep in mind, there's enough thread remaining to skip this step, and just add spacers and four new stainless nuts.

Also:

The above alterations are not legal for racing purposes!
:p
 
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L&VW

Well-Known Member
#6
Your first picture indicates a metal repair had been attempted. :confused:

In viewing that, I'll amend option #2 to folding a thinner piece of metal over, then drill, bolt, and glue the upper "works" together. Some minor adjustments may be necessary. :oops:



.
 
#7
Just to update everyone on the broken gudgeon bracket, we were able to replace it with a super porpoise bracket without any new holes, inspection port, etc...and it is working perfectly, so that was very lucky! I'm nick's mom and we first sailed a sunfish last year with some friends who have a couple, so I decided to look for our own this year in an attempt to spend a little time with nick and his brother, who are 15, while I still can. I frequently checked Craigslist with a few maybe's but nothing worked out and then the 1975 porpoise 2 turned up in our neighbors garage sale for a great price from somebody who seems to take really good care of his toys. The gudgeon bracket was a problem, and I did a LOT of internet searches to try to find an easy solution but there really wasn't one. Luckily my friends who got us interested in sailing also have a lot of spare parts from junk hulls acquired cheaply just to have spare parts, so we toom it over and the brass super porpoise gudgeon bracket was installed. We took it to our local inland lake the next day and it worked perfectly, even without wind lol 2 weeks later we unexpectedly added a 2000 sunfish to the "fleet" and this forum has been a lifesaver for me! I'm building the pvc dolly from my2fish blog this weekend while my sons are at their dads and have pored over rigging guides, repair and leak test instructions, and just plain sailing how tos, since I'm completely new to this! Anyways, just wanted to update, sorry about the life story, but I'm really thankful for this forum and use it daily! Also, i might be able to get better pics of the bailer mechanism, I'll try when i go out to test my dolly...
 

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#9
Thanks, I'm sure it wil l be great, it's a great design! We likely will have to build another next weekend, right now just waiting for paint to dry on the dolly, just glued the handle (but I don't think I'm super loopy yet)and trying to figure out the best way to drill a hole in a 1\2" threaded rod. I'll post pics when it's all together as long as it's pretty! I was looking on your blog, the rigging guides were also helpful thank you,and I think we're nearly neighbors, your camp and I are at least. I'm about 3 hours south of there, I'm pretty sure that that's the town where my ex-husband used to go hunting (AKA day drinking with friends),but I've only been there once, definitely not for hunting! anyways, I've learned pretty much all i know about sailing and sunfish here so i hope my questions don't get too annoying because I'm starting from scratch! I wish I could thank everybody in advance and apologize in advance I appreciate all of the answers, information, instructions and advice already posted and all the future help, as well.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#10
Thanks, I'm sure it wil l be great, it's a great design! We likely will have to build another next weekend, right now just waiting for paint to dry on the dolly, just glued the handle (but I don't think I'm super loopy yet)and trying to figure out the best way to drill a hole in a 1\2" threaded rod. I'll post pics when it's all together as long as it's pretty! I was looking on your blog, the rigging guides were also helpful thank you,and I think we're nearly neighbors, your camp and I are at least. I'm about 3 hours south of there, I'm pretty sure that that's the town where my ex-husband used to go hunting (AKA day drinking with friends),but I've only been there once, definitely not for hunting! anyways, I've learned pretty much all i know about sailing and sunfish here so i hope my questions don't get too annoying because I'm starting from scratch! I wish I could thank everybody in advance and apologize in advance I appreciate all of the answers, information, instructions and advice already posted and all the future help, as well.
If you have access to a grinder (bench or hand-held)—or a Dremel tool—grind a small flat spot where the pin is to go, and start drilling there. The nut may initially be hard to start while going over those threads, but will improve as it "re-forms" the rough edges.

A neighbor with a bench "drill press" (on a stand) would be best, but the drill bit may still be difficult to get started.
 
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