how to make an old laser hull shine again
- Thread starter cmansonh
- Start date
laserxd
Member
depends on how heavily oxidized the finish is, is there any shine left?
racinglasers
Member
Just used this on my hull and it's so slick and shiny it won't stay on the trailer!
StarBrite Marine Polish is great for new and older Boats. Helps stop fading caused by UV rays. No hard rubbing required. Lasts up to 4 times longer than other polishes.
For the longest lasting shine we recommend using a finish coat of Starbrite Premium Marine Polish with PTEF. Protects fiberglass, metal and painted surfaces. Super-slick PTEF® finish repels dirt, stains, and salt. Cuts drag. Wipe on, let dry, wipe off. No hard rubbing required. Great for bare gelcoat racing finishes common on lasers, J boats and Sonars.
StarBrite Marine Polish is great for new and older Boats. Helps stop fading caused by UV rays. No hard rubbing required. Lasts up to 4 times longer than other polishes.
For the longest lasting shine we recommend using a finish coat of Starbrite Premium Marine Polish with PTEF. Protects fiberglass, metal and painted surfaces. Super-slick PTEF® finish repels dirt, stains, and salt. Cuts drag. Wipe on, let dry, wipe off. No hard rubbing required. Great for bare gelcoat racing finishes common on lasers, J boats and Sonars.
oztayls
Member
Careful using these products on the daggerboard as it will make righting following a capsise more difficult. Also keep it off the trailing edge because it prevents the friction pad from working and your board will keep popping up.
alfredm123
New Member
I bought a new pair of dry wipes which are made from highly absorbent non-woven fabrics for removing spills or misprints.they are really good.
www.productionequipment.ie
www.productionequipment.ie
tonyquoll
Member
more of an extreme case, the underside of my old Laser had deep gouges, scratches, gel-coat cracks AND a dull, powerdery finish. It is 36 years old.
I used "Plasti-Bond", a polyester bog, to fill all the defects. An old plastic card (eg credit-card) was used to apply the bog and scrape it smooth.
Then I block-sanded with 240-grit, to get it all nice and flat. An orbital sander was then used with 360 then 800 grits over the problem areas, and then 1200 grit all over the boat. A wet & dry hand rub with the 1200 removed any scuffed areas.
Finally I used "turtle wax" car polish to bring up the shine. Because this beads and repels water, it can be slow in drifter conditions. To remove this waxy coating, the boat can be washed with dishwashing liquid.
I used "Plasti-Bond", a polyester bog, to fill all the defects. An old plastic card (eg credit-card) was used to apply the bog and scrape it smooth.
Then I block-sanded with 240-grit, to get it all nice and flat. An orbital sander was then used with 360 then 800 grits over the problem areas, and then 1200 grit all over the boat. A wet & dry hand rub with the 1200 removed any scuffed areas.
Finally I used "turtle wax" car polish to bring up the shine. Because this beads and repels water, it can be slow in drifter conditions. To remove this waxy coating, the boat can be washed with dishwashing liquid.
I posted a while ago on how I got my 1985 laser hull nice and shiny. It still gets lots of comments about how good it looks from other Laser sailors.
Here is the link (hope it works)
http://sailingforums.com/threads/my-beautiful-bottom.19827/
The final stage I used 3m Finesse it polish with the 3m applicator pad. This stuff is brilliant!
HTH
Ian
Here is the link (hope it works)
http://sailingforums.com/threads/my-beautiful-bottom.19827/
The final stage I used 3m Finesse it polish with the 3m applicator pad. This stuff is brilliant!
HTH
Ian