How to install new blocks?
- Thread starter jbd214
- Start date
49208
Tentmaker
Guessing you mean the eyestrap is still in place, attached to the boom.
You have to remove the rivet head, that's the purpose of the larger drill bit, usually a 1/4" bit does the job. Once the rivet head is off, if the rivet body is still in place, take a nail set (counterpunch) and tap the rivet thru into the boom.
You have to remove the rivet head, that's the purpose of the larger drill bit, usually a 1/4" bit does the job. Once the rivet head is off, if the rivet body is still in place, take a nail set (counterpunch) and tap the rivet thru into the boom.
I took a 1/4 inch drill bit to a previously drilled out rivet.
I didn't think it was making much progress but suddenly the drill bit caught the
the eyestrap, pulled the eyestrap off the other rivet and wrapped the eyestrap around the drill bit.
Is there a best practice way to avoid such a situation?
Should I have started with the 1/4 inch drill bit to the head rather than drilling down the center?
I didn't think it was making much progress but suddenly the drill bit caught the
the eyestrap, pulled the eyestrap off the other rivet and wrapped the eyestrap around the drill bit.
Is there a best practice way to avoid such a situation?
Should I have started with the 1/4 inch drill bit to the head rather than drilling down the center?
49208
Tentmaker
All you need to do is remove the head of the rivet, drilling thru the rivet is not needed and just extra work.
You can remove the rivet head with a bit larger then the rivet dia (all the hardware on the mast and boom is riveted with a 3/16" dia in North America) or you can grind/file it off too. When drilling, it helps to extert upward pressure against the rivet to keep it from spinning.
You can remove the rivet head with a bit larger then the rivet dia (all the hardware on the mast and boom is riveted with a 3/16" dia in North America) or you can grind/file it off too. When drilling, it helps to extert upward pressure against the rivet to keep it from spinning.
Thanks, I was more successful removing the 2nd block.
Any tips for installing the rivets?
I have that I think is in nicely but the stick still has not popped off.
The other is loose and I will have to redo.
It seem like you have to push down while also pulling up. Maybe clamping the eye strap down would help.
Any tips for installing the rivets?
I have that I think is in nicely but the stick still has not popped off.
The other is loose and I will have to redo.
It seem like you have to push down while also pulling up. Maybe clamping the eye strap down would help.
49208
Tentmaker
Quality/Age of rivet gun plays a part in how well stainless rivets are applied. You need the teeth of the jaws to bite into the shank and hold.
Using the typical handheld type will require A LOT of squeezing pressure, typically 2 or 3 cycles. Make sure when you open up the handles after a cycle that you move the nosepiece down the shank w/o pushing the shank. The rivet should provide the clamping pressure after the first pull. If it's not, make sure you aren't using rivets with too long of a body
Using the typical handheld type will require A LOT of squeezing pressure, typically 2 or 3 cycles. Make sure when you open up the handles after a cycle that you move the nosepiece down the shank w/o pushing the shank. The rivet should provide the clamping pressure after the first pull. If it's not, make sure you aren't using rivets with too long of a body
torrid
Just sailing
Not on anything that is under load, namely the two eyestraps holding the blocks. Aluminum rivets are not strong enough. The eyestrap between the blocks that keeps the mainsheet from dangling is not under load, so it could probably be put in place with aluminum rivets.
The dissimilar metals can cause corrosion. I believe the factory applies some sort of anti-corrosion material before they rivet stuff to the spars.
I have now done this on two booms and also just end for ended a top section. Can be tricky to remove some of the rivets but what I have found is this;
1) Use a decent oversize drill bit (designed to drill metal obviously), > 8mm. Use quite a slow speed setting to drill out the rim of the rivet. You may need to angle the drill slightly in several directions to get it all. You should be able to see small steel chippings flying off. if not try a slower speed with firm pressure (or a newer drill bit!). keep checking to see when the rim is just about all gone to avoid drilling into the spar or enlarging the hole.
2) use a 3- 3.5mm punch to hammer (firm careful tapping with a hammer) the remaining bit of the rivet into the spar.
3) The new blocks should come supplied with rivets. if not use stainless 3/16" diam.
4) I have a pretty basic rivet gun but it did a perfectly good job once I'd got used to its idiosyncrasies - one BIG mistake was when the rivet was only partially compressed the central pin fell inside the spar - that rivet was then a nightmare to remove as it simply rotated (had to clamp using small surgical instruments!). I therefore suggest that once you have completed your first 'squeeze' of the rivet gun rotate the spar so that the rivet lies horizontally whilst the gun regrips the central pin ready for the next compression.
5) You then have 4 old rivets and the pins from the new ones rattling around in your boom which is really annoying. trying to remove them through the small gooseneck hole is the same sort of fun as those infuriating puzzles you get given for christmas....I'll leave that one to you!
If you can get yachtsandyachting.com there is a recent article /video from Steve Cockerill showing him end-for-ending a top section in around 6 mins which shows all the techniques you'll need. Good luck
1) Use a decent oversize drill bit (designed to drill metal obviously), > 8mm. Use quite a slow speed setting to drill out the rim of the rivet. You may need to angle the drill slightly in several directions to get it all. You should be able to see small steel chippings flying off. if not try a slower speed with firm pressure (or a newer drill bit!). keep checking to see when the rim is just about all gone to avoid drilling into the spar or enlarging the hole.
2) use a 3- 3.5mm punch to hammer (firm careful tapping with a hammer) the remaining bit of the rivet into the spar.
3) The new blocks should come supplied with rivets. if not use stainless 3/16" diam.
4) I have a pretty basic rivet gun but it did a perfectly good job once I'd got used to its idiosyncrasies - one BIG mistake was when the rivet was only partially compressed the central pin fell inside the spar - that rivet was then a nightmare to remove as it simply rotated (had to clamp using small surgical instruments!). I therefore suggest that once you have completed your first 'squeeze' of the rivet gun rotate the spar so that the rivet lies horizontally whilst the gun regrips the central pin ready for the next compression.
5) You then have 4 old rivets and the pins from the new ones rattling around in your boom which is really annoying. trying to remove them through the small gooseneck hole is the same sort of fun as those infuriating puzzles you get given for christmas....I'll leave that one to you!
If you can get yachtsandyachting.com there is a recent article /video from Steve Cockerill showing him end-for-ending a top section in around 6 mins which shows all the techniques you'll need. Good luck