Was it wet with salt water or fresh? If it was salt, did it get rinsed out well? I think remaining salt helps trap moisture and makes it harder to dry out. . .
If you have room in your shed to store your boat on the transom that might help drain any residual water. If you can keep the boat warm and keep the air flowing through it as well that should definitely do the trick.
It was salt water and I rinsed it out with warm water. I am able to store the boat on its stern but would that not damage the gunnels and gudgeon at the stern due to all the weight being focused there or does that matter.
The following is a method I found to be very effective and cheap. You need an old canister vacuum and the bag should be removed. The hose may not be long enough so you can buy a length of hardware store hose and tape it to the end of the vacuum's hose. The joint does not have to be perfectly airtight. The idea is to snake the hose into the inspection port either forward or aft as far as possible. With the vacuum running, it will suck the moist air out of the hull and dry air will be drawn into the hull via the inspection port. NOTE: Extreme Care should be taken not to block the inspection port when the vacuum is running. If it is blocked even for a second, the hull could collapse because of the pressure differential. I usually tape the hose to one side to insure maximum air flow into the hull. the good news is that it will dry the interior very fast. An hour or so with the hose forward and the same time with it snaked aft should be sufficient. Hope this helps.
Thanks for that advice it sound like a good idea. That would be very plausible for me to do. Does it need to have 2 have two inspection ports I only have one forward of the cockpit could that damage the boat.
Repeat - Extreme Care should be taken not to block the inspection port when the vacuum is running. If it is blocked even for a second, the hull could collapse because of the pressure differential. I usually tape the hose to one side to insure maximum air flow into the hull.
Most household vacuums move about 120 cfm, and a quick calculation indicates that a 4" opening and minimal pressure differential will handle about three times that much. This being said, I am not there with you and it's not my boat or vaccuum, so proceed at you're own risk.
You could put a bit of epoxy on the screws as you screw them in.
What I did on my dinghy to dry it out is this:
I have a fully decked Phoenix Class dinghy (4m plywood sailboat). It was getting a bit damp inside so I came up with this scheme.
I got an old interior fan out of a 1992 Toyota corolla and an old computer power supply. I put an light bulb on the 5V circuit for the power supply (this is required so that you get maximum output out of the 12V circuit for some reason), and then got all the 12v lines and joined them together. I ran these into a single larger wire and put that into the fan, as well as an earth. I just used a bungy cord to hold the outlet against the inspection port at the front of the boat, and removed the drain bungs from the back.
It seems to be blowing an impressive amount of air, you can really feel it coming out of the drain bungs at the back.
I had that going for a day, will put it on again next weekend maybe, if I'm not out sailing.
This seems to work well, and it didn't cost me anything as I just made the setup out of stuff which I already had lying around the house.