How to add handrails/hand holds on gunwale of 14.2 or 16.5 Capri
- Thread starter whisper
- Start date
FreeRide
Member
Isn't that where you sit? 
Not sure exactly where you're thinking of mounting them or what your experience is with drill holes in your deck.
Have you googled the basics? What are your questions?
Not sure exactly where you're thinking of mounting them or what your experience is with drill holes in your deck.
Have you googled the basics? What are your questions?
I have a 16.5 Capri. I am a senior with limited agility. Downsizing from an O'day 222. Want to use for unchallenging sailing. No hiking out.
Need hand holds for safety to help body weight of self and crew to counter heal of boat upon tack or gust. Prefer to thru bolt. I am mechanically proficient. Built wood boats. Would appreciate your ideas. Thanks
Need hand holds for safety to help body weight of self and crew to counter heal of boat upon tack or gust. Prefer to thru bolt. I am mechanically proficient. Built wood boats. Would appreciate your ideas. Thanks
FreeRide
Member
If you've build wooden boats, you are probably smarter about this than I am. But I have mounted stuff to glass boats before, so I will take a shot.
Pick a handle:
Pick a handle:
- I hate maintenance, so if it were me, it would be a stainless or plastic handle.
- For size, I would think something around a 1" diameter grip would be easy to grab.
- Look for some thing with a broader base than handle. You want to distribute the load.
- Optimize/maximize the backing plate. I am not sure how much room there is under the lip, or if you are thing of mounting it over the hull cavity. Either way, spread the load.
- Saturate the inside of the holes you drill with epoxy, especially if there is any fray from the drilling.
- If there is any core in the deck where you mount them, that is a little more complicated. I think my 14.2 only has core on the foredeck. If you find core (wood between the outer and inner layers of glass), we can follow up.
Thanks Karl,
One will never know it all so I appreciate your thoughts. If you study how the inner and outer hull are mated you will find the outer hull during manufacture has a rolled edge turning almost 180 degrees outward. The inner hull with foredeck, cockpit floor, seating and gunwale also has a rolled edge. The inner hull is lowered onto the outer hull semi circle edge and the two components are sealed together and mechanically fastened under the rub rail. Looking from the bottom up at the outer hull roll edge you see a possibility to vertically drill through both layers together or if you move a little toward the keel you may drill through two separate layers as they depart to form the inner and outer hulls. This would be the only opportunity to thru bolt rails or individual hand holds. Wondering if any one has done this or has given up due to the complexity of mounting a flat rail/hold base to a curved gunwale surface needing a custom made shim of sorts to compensate for the curved geometry on the gunwale.
If I had to drill and screw through one layer elsewhere, what is your advice for mechanically fastening to prevent pull out? Have you ever seen a stainless spring loaded winged nut similar to one used in drywall (wings open after being pushed thru hole).
Thanks for your thoughts,
Bill
One will never know it all so I appreciate your thoughts. If you study how the inner and outer hull are mated you will find the outer hull during manufacture has a rolled edge turning almost 180 degrees outward. The inner hull with foredeck, cockpit floor, seating and gunwale also has a rolled edge. The inner hull is lowered onto the outer hull semi circle edge and the two components are sealed together and mechanically fastened under the rub rail. Looking from the bottom up at the outer hull roll edge you see a possibility to vertically drill through both layers together or if you move a little toward the keel you may drill through two separate layers as they depart to form the inner and outer hulls. This would be the only opportunity to thru bolt rails or individual hand holds. Wondering if any one has done this or has given up due to the complexity of mounting a flat rail/hold base to a curved gunwale surface needing a custom made shim of sorts to compensate for the curved geometry on the gunwale.
If I had to drill and screw through one layer elsewhere, what is your advice for mechanically fastening to prevent pull out? Have you ever seen a stainless spring loaded winged nut similar to one used in drywall (wings open after being pushed thru hole).
Thanks for your thoughts,
Bill