How do I paint my hull

Thread starter #1
Which is better a krylon fusion finish or epoxy. I saw a post about using two part epoxy primers. Does anyone know of any good websites on how to? I recently picked up this free hull in Orange County while I was passing through. The owner had applied a few coats of interior house paint which I'm now sanding off. There seem to be alot of patches, so I'm wondering if I need a primer. I could really use some step by step instructions if they are out there. Thanks Also why would someone apply interior house paint?

John Driessen
It will be interesting to see the different ideas on this one, I have just aquired a similar project boat myself. Now for me this is easy. In my working life I run and maintain large motoryachts so I am going to use the products I know, Awlgrip or Sterling linear polyuerthane whish is applied over an epoxy primer.
Thread starter #3
Any ideas on how I should apply the Awlgrip over the epoxy primer? I'm guessing a spray application would be best but unfortunately I do not own an air compressor or paint gun, so brushing is my only option at the moment. And where can I pickup Awlgrip on the cheap and the expoxy primer?
Awlgrip can be applied with roller and brush, but you must use the correct catalyst and thinner. I have done some really nice work this way as good as spraying if not better.
No reason why not. Just stay away from house paint :rolleyes: . I use Awlgrip in my job and lots of it so if a little goes missing............Well
You've certainly sanded it! What I would do:

Sand it to p80 grit to remove loose/old paint (what you're doing now)

I would use a shortish longboard to keep the hull as fair a possible, but depending on the age and condition of the hull, that may be a waste of time.
Use an electric sander if you like but keep it moving through long arcs as much as possible. There's always the tendancy to push harder in areas that won't budge, causing a very shallow scallop, that you'll see wth a gloss finish.
Again, this may not be a problem because I've seen some old boats finished in what looks like deck grip and they're still competitive.

SO, P80, vacuum and dust it off then wipe it down with acetone or spraying thinners.

Apply two rolled coats of epoxy or polyurethane two pot undercoat. Use a foam roller and thin the under coat enough so there is reduced orange peel effect. Do not apply successive coats until the first is very touch dry. If your finger comes away with paint on it, leave it another 15 mins. Too much too soon and you'll get curtains and runs.

awlcraft (the cream coloured stuff)

international perfection

or similar.

But definately two pot.

Apply a "dust coat" over the undercoat when dry. This means getting some matt black aerosol paint and spraying a misty coat over the hull. It's a sanding guide. Once the black mist is gone, you have sanded just enough paint off to make a smooth finish and no more.

Sand the undercoat coat with P180. Apply another dust coat, then sand with P220.

Dust off and wipe with acetone or thinners.

Choose your top coat. For budget use International single pot brightside and foam roller (use their brushing thinners #6) or use any two pot paint you like thinned appropriately.

That's the general idea anyway.

Bear in mind that highgloss finish will show surface imperfections clearly. Semi gloss may be better, and white semigloss will make imperfections almost invisible. High Gloss black will do the opposite.
Thread starter #9
Wow that was exactly the info I was looking for! Is there anything I can do to brighten up the deck. Its certainly sun faded and will have some minor gelcoat repairs when I'm done with it. If I apply a deck paint won't the textured grip turn smooth? Ok back to sanding. Only two more beers until that house paint is gone!
I don't have any experience trying to save laser deck grip. There are other threads here about that. Personally, i'd scrub the deck with solvent and a stiff brush to clean the grip, sand the cockpit as above, and paint a single coat of two pot paint over the whole lot.
If deck has not ever been painted, clean with NOSAND which is a solvent cleaner and paint without using a primer. This will not fill up the moulded non skid too much. But it maybe that a good wax is al that is needed to bring the deck back.
Thread starter #12
Hey thanks for all your help. Has anyone ever done a two tone paint job on their own? And if so how much harder would it be to paint if I were doing a red and white or blue and white? I'm trying to figure out the best way to get nice clean lines for that super sexy look. Help!
Thread starter #14
I guess what I'm wondering is what about my first primer layer. Should I just go with a straight white finish or a dark finish primer for the sides that will be red or blue since my top coats are both light and dark colors. I would really prefer blue but if the boat gets hit hard the red gelcoat underneath might show.
Also, can I just hit the whole hull with a white finish, I will be using Interlux Brightside paints since I cannot afford Awlgrip (taking donations), then paint on my blue or red sides over the white? I really hope this helps anyone else out there trying to "Pimp their Laser" New MTV show anyone?
What are your intentions with this boat? If you're just going to sail her for fun, then go for the paint job. Brightside does a good job, even though it does kick up some underwater turbulance that will slow you down.

If you want to race her, I'd go with gelcoat. You can get it at any Marine store... it is about $60/gallon... you need about half a gallon to do a laser. Gelcoat can get a little hairy to work with, but yields a really nice finish. Also, I think it is easier to do the two tone thing with gelcoat because you just need the last coat to be the colors you want to show. Not to mention Gelcoat has a nice shine to it!!! It is possible to spray gelcoat over your hull... using a compressor or the little disposible sprayers you can grab at any auto/marine parts store.

I would recommend gelcoat if you want a real nice finish that won't chip off as easily as paint. I'm a big fan of doing it once and nto having to do ti again. I found with my first laser, which I painted, that I was recoating the boat every season. I did an entire gelcoat bottom over this winter... it took about 2 weeks, but it looks, feels, and sails really well.

btw... if you spray the gelcoat and mix it with a 50/50 gelcoat/acetone mixture, when the acetone evaporates it will leave a texture very similar in feel to the laser stock finish. It won't have the laser pattern, but you won't have to worry about sliding off the deck when you're all the way out on a plane!!!!

Just some food for thought.....
Thread starter #16
So I'm finally done sanding and got some great advice from a local sailor who use to sail for North sails racing J boats. He recommended and sold me some Interlux VC-17 two part. The trick will be getting it sanded down to a 1600 grit and then buffed out. If I do decide to go for the two tone he recommended using one of the Interlux LPU top-side paint over the VC-17. I'll post a photo and maybe a sale price when its all done. Hope this helps anyone out there thinking about giving an old Laser a new life. For anyone needing a new Laser, spars, fittings or whatever checkout They have prices you can't even shake a tiller at! Oh yeah and no sales tax in Montana

Ross B

tell me, how did you manage to get a laser for free???

i want to get a crap test bed laser, there are things i want to do that arent class legal....
Thread starter #19
Ok so I just got done with my second coat and have to wait until tomorrow for a light sand and final coat, then sand and buff again. I think I wrote above that I used VC-17, but I actually used V127 and 128 Performance Epoxy by Interlux which is what was recommended to me. Here are a couple before and after photos