How do I paint a sunfish?
- Thread starter Bfbecker
- Start date
The main key will be in surface prep.
You'll need to sand all of the area to be painted with very fine paper. Then DON'T TOUCH without gloves. No oil or dirt can be on the surface to be painted.
Depends on the defect to be filled as to what you use. Really small, sand the defect and fill with epoxy putty. Larger may need fiberglassing repair involving grinding out an area and applying cloth and/or mat.
Rustoleum can work but better would be to use gel coat or a good quality marine paint.
If you do it wrong... you'll have a mess that needs to be stripped off the hull.
You'll need to sand all of the area to be painted with very fine paper. Then DON'T TOUCH without gloves. No oil or dirt can be on the surface to be painted.
Depends on the defect to be filled as to what you use. Really small, sand the defect and fill with epoxy putty. Larger may need fiberglassing repair involving grinding out an area and applying cloth and/or mat.
Rustoleum can work but better would be to use gel coat or a good quality marine paint.
If you do it wrong... you'll have a mess that needs to be stripped off the hull.
L&VW
Well-Known Member
As stated above, use a fine grain of sandpaper to make the new paint adhere best, and not leave tiny defects. Use Wet-or-Dry® sandpaper by hand (and a block), and keep it wet with a trickle from a hose.
Rustoleum® is a relatively "soft" paint, so it tends to get scratched easily. But it's inexpensive, and neighborhood hardware stores will match colors for you. A long drying-period in the sun would help remove the "soft" part. Don't expect Rustoleum®, or any other paint, to fill in scratches. To reduce the runs of new paint, keep the portion you are painting as level as possible.
For filling imperfections, I use ordinary automotive red "glazing compound". It's relatively cheap and though relatively volatile, the stuff stores forever! I use an old credit card to spread it. (Below, in red, partially filling in the scratch). They recommend not "working" the compound into the defect. Two swipes is enough, as the compound sands "true" easily.
My one attempt at spraying Rustoleum® was very disappointing. as it turned out to be a very thin coat, and was hard to keep directed onto the desired surface. So, I brush on Rustoleum® from a can, using a bristle brush. Add paint thinner to about 5% volume. Others here will suggest more precise techniques.
Pettit EZFair, the Pettit primer then Easypoxy.
Or Interlux Interfill, primer then Brightside.
Or Rustoleum Topside primer and paint.
I alos fair with Marine Tex, although it is harder to sand.
Or Interlux Interfill, primer then Brightside.
Or Rustoleum Topside primer and paint.
I alos fair with Marine Tex, although it is harder to sand.
L&VW
Well-Known Member
In the photo below, I'd propped the 'Fish up on its trailer to raise the boat to a comfortable working height. The right side has imperfections filled with automotive "glazing compound" and sanded, while the left side awaits sanding. In the intervening six months, since brushing on Rustoleum®, the 'Fish has been stored upside-down in the sun, and the finish turned out very satisfactory. 
Granted, this is "Sailing on the cheap". 
Granted, this is "Sailing on the cheap".
The blue Sunfish "Merci" was rolled and tipped with Pettit Easypoxy Ocean Blue over EZFair and Pettit primer. Search for Merci in this forum and there are lots of tips for prep and paint.
The Penobscot 14 has one coat of Rustoleum Topside Oyster White over West System epoxy and Pettit EZFair.
The white Sunfish "Tilly" is Interlux Brightside Blu Glo White over Marine Tex epoxy putty for fairing.
The Penobscot 14 has one coat of Rustoleum Topside Oyster White over West System epoxy and Pettit EZFair.
The white Sunfish "Tilly" is Interlux Brightside Blu Glo White over Marine Tex epoxy putty for fairing.
Sprocket
New Member
Another trick I learned painting cars (believe it or not the car in my avatar is painted with Rustoleum from a spray can), is after final sanding before paint, to wash the car with a light mix of Dawn dish detergent. It will remove any left over oils (they use it on water birds that get stuck in oil spills so it can do the job, lol). Then rinse and either blow or air dry (if in a hurry I use a leaf blower to dry off as well as get any water out of small crevices on the car (no such a big deal on a sunfish).
I'll be doing the hull on my 1966 fist soon, but will probably go with a marine finish as I plan on using her in both fresh and salt.
I'll be doing the hull on my 1966 fist soon, but will probably go with a marine finish as I plan on using her in both fresh and salt.
KSmit
New Member
These were all done with rustoleum and where the first boats I ever painted. I used the topside paint thinned a bit with mineral spirits. Unfortunately I dont have pictures of the finished product after sanding these smooth and doing a final thin coat, but this is just the topside rolled on and dried. My garage is definitely not dust free, so that didnt help!
