How can I take a sunfish apart ?

[workingovertime]

Hello---I picked up a Sunfish for free today and it has a hole in the hull, a big one. Is there a way to take the deck off the hull ,so I can get at the inside to repair the hole. The foam is also loose inside the hull ----has anyone taken a sunfish apart and put the boat back together ? I work in the autobody repair industry , I have experance with repairing fiberglass . I just started fixing up Sunfish's and selling them as a hobby,but this particular hull is really bad, I like to fix it from inside--------------thankyou

 

[Wayne]

Hello---I picked up a Sunfish for free today and it has a hole in the hull, a big one. Is there a way to take the deck off the hull ,so I can get at the inside to repair the hole. The foam is also loose inside the hull ----has anyone taken a sunfish apart and put the boat back together ?

Usually most any hull repair is done through an access you fiberglass closed when you have finished so there's hardly any evidence a repair was done; Or perform a one side (blind) fiberglass fix; Most typically one or two inspecton ports are installed and the repair area accessed through the ports. These often times become a storage lazarette afterwards.

The hull can be separated, but it's not recommended to lift the deck completely off. There are obstacles such as keeping the hull "square" and reforming the deck crown upon reassembly. Along with those, the mast tube and foot-well tub connections which are fiberglassed in, top and bottom.

Opening a Sunfish Hull​

Here's a look at one way to re-secure loose flotation blocks...

Re-attaching loose foam blocks

All these guides apply to boats built before 1986. At that point in time the hull to deck bonding method changed. I am not aware of anybody separating the deck off the hull for the newest style.

Today’s Construction​

I noticed in your picture album you worked on a 1950's wood hull Sailfish. Have you got any before and after photos? Those are cool boats when they're all fixed up.

This is a similar Sailfish one of the members here did an incredible job restoring...

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[workingovertime]

Thanks for the information, ill post a few pictures of the boat and repair ,on that picture of the old wooden Sailfish on the beach , that picture is off an old advertisment . Its a vintage picture, from the 50's. I like old advertisments ,with the sailboats in them .Ill put all vintage stuff in a seperate folderfor now on . thanks again

 

[Wavedancer]

The hole might be big (how big?), but you should consider a 'blind hole' repair. For this scenario, no access ports are necessary. There are many references on the Internet on the methodology.

As Wayne already pointed out, there's no need to split your fish in two. If you do, the hull will probably die an unpleasant death .

 

[workingovertime]

Heres a couple of pictures of the hull,I think its pritty bad .Double click on my name and Look in my profile to see pictures the boat.

 

[Webfoot]

That is indeed extensive damage to the extent most would junk the hull. It looks like you're up for a challenge. While the majority of repairs don't involve removing the deck, this one might well warrant it. Looks like a layer of Fiberglass Mat will be needed inside the whole bottom of the hull to restore integrity. I'd try popping up the rear of the deck up to the centerboard. The may give you enough room between the deck and hull to work without having to detach the centerboard trunk/mast tube. The hull looks fragile so it would be good to make some sort of jig to hold it rigid. Good luck, looks like a fun project.

 

[Wayne]

Heres a couple of pictures of the hull,I think its pritty bad .

That one is pretty abused. You sure it wouldn't be more economical just to use as a parts hull?

I think I would lift the hood back to around the mast tube for that level of bottom repair. The needed tie-in will be broad and loosing a piece out of the keel doesn't help strength in that area. That region of the bottom gets more wave pounding than any other. And I see the forward center foam block is right in the way.

My approach would be to lay in backing layers at least half the hull's original thickness, twice the average diameter of the damage, and probably include a couple of 1/2" radius, hollow stringers running parallel to the keel. Might even turn the inner keel depression into a wood reinforced stringer across the area.

In the rear, I would just cut access in the deck and re-glass the cutout back in place or port it when finished. Doubt the rear foam blocks are the loose ones so no need to lift the trunk (rear deck) and have to reset foam blocks where you don't need to.

In addition to the information in the block reset guide, you should be aware all the deck fittings have wood backing blocks. On a boat this beat up there's a higher probability the blocks are rotted or have come loose so will need replacing along the way.

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[Gail]

Standard recommendation: DON'T DO IT!!

All repairs can be made from strategically placed inspection ports, before installing the ports themselves. You've been given lots of links for tips and tricks. Any hull can be saved; it's just a question of time and work involved and how perfect you want it to be. Good luck and enjoy the project!