Hiking strap adjustment setup

Levent

Member
I took the idea in Davison`s book, however I found that the line slips and the strap adjustment gets loose rapidly. I'm wondering if this could be causes by the type of line I'm using that is rather slippery. I can't sail with that setup, my next step would be to try with a different kind of line or go back to my original simple setup, what do you think ?
 

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The line does look pretty smooth.

Maybe try using some thicker line, so there's even less room to slide.

If your original, simpler set up worked better, I'd just go back to that if switching the line doesn't work.

The one I have is much simpler, and while it does slip, it does so very slowly and not enough to affect my sailing before I have the chance to quickly tighten it again.
 
mabe you ort to try the paul goodison "way" might be able to get a pic on request but ill try to explain...

face the stern of your boat and tie a bowline round the port "fairlead" then take the loose end of the rope through the toe strap and through the starboard "fairlead" and through the bowline and the port "fairlead" then pull tight, when hiking it pulls on the bowline locking it against the "fairlead" preventing it form slipping although it stil need adjusting every 4/5 tacks. :(

or even you could build that locking idea into your own setup and if it works photo it and put it on the forum!
 
Eric, it's what I had before, it works, I was only trying to improve the system.

I tried with another line type (Dacron) with the same setup as my picture and I have the same problem. By the way both lines I used are 5 mm.

Salingmania, your idea looks interesting.
 
hi guy might be goin down to my boat today so wil experiment with the adjuster ideas, and the modification i came up with on "Levent"'s idea.

although "er173716" i do like you very simple idea! and if you say it works it must be a good one!
 
Looks like there is way too much line involved with your hiking strap adjustment.

The simplest way to do it is the pic below. It'll never give you any issues. Just make sure the bowline has a bit of a tail so you can adjust easier rather than coming in all the way to adjust.

http://claysails.com/index.php?q=gallery&g2_itemId=345


hi guyz have been down to the yc today and have experimented with your design and have encountered a few problems, one i have an aussie toe strap, does this make a difference because from your pic it looks like you have alot more adjustability space than me i found i can only take up a max of about 3 inches of slack. please correct me if im worng but i think its a good idea but wont suit me.
 
I took the idea in Davison`s book, however I found that the line slips and the strap adjustment gets loose rapidly. I'm wondering if this could be causes by the type of line I'm using that is rather slippery. I can't sail with that setup, my next step would be to try with a different kind of line or go back to my original simple setup, what do you think ?

been down yc today and have modified your design see what you think but remember to pass the loose end of rope through bowline and inside of starboard fairlead and through port fairlead then it will not slip as it is held between the bowline and the fairlead any more help needed please ask as i will try and get another pic.
 

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been down yc today and have modified your design see what you think but remember to pass the loose end of rope through bowline and inside of starboard fairlead and through port fairlead then it will not slip as it is held between the bowline and the fairlead any more help needed please ask as i will try and get another pic.

That looks good, I have to give it a try !
 
The pic that Sailingmania sent has a cool feature (bowline pinching the line) that you can apply to your original set-up as shown in the first pic. If you thread the final "free" end of the line at the starboard fairlead ... under (or thru) the existing line ... it will be pinched against the fairlead and held tight in the same way that the bowline does on Sailingmania's set-up. Best of both worlds.

Both of these set-ups make me scratch my head and think ...who comes up with these cool ideas. A few beers were problably involved!
 
The pic that Sailingmania sent has a cool feature (bowline pinching the line) that you can apply to your original set-up as shown in the first pic. If you thread the final "free" end of the line at the starboard fairlead ... under (or thru) the existing line ... it will be pinched against the fairlead and held tight in the same way that the bowline does on Sailingmania's set-up. Best of both worlds.

Both of these set-ups make me scratch my head and think ...who comes up with these cool ideas. A few beers were problably involved!


the person who actually comes up with these ideas is..... paul goodison! i got his idea out of the laser handbook and modified it to your design, she design shown in the manual is a bowline tied to the starboard eye (facing forward) through the toesrap and through port eye then between bowline and the fairlead (although i find this system need adjusting every few tacks. :(
 
The pic that Sailingmania sent has a cool feature (bowline pinching the line) that you can apply to your original set-up as shown in the first pic. If you thread the final "free" end of the line at the starboard fairlead ... under (or thru) the existing line ... it will be pinched against the fairlead and held tight in the same way that the bowline does on Sailingmania's set-up. Best of both worlds.

Both of these set-ups make me scratch my head and think ...who comes up with these cool ideas. A few beers were problably involved!

I think I understand what you mean, I was thinking about doing a similar modification too. Whenever I have a new tested setup I'll post a picture, if you have one than feel free to share it
 
...the "bowline" setup has an advantage over my modificatin idea in that ..

1. The bowline does not move or "travel" therefore should hold a more constant, stable grip on the free end of the line.

2. The 4 lines act independently in terms of sharing the load...the standing (bowline) line that is "first" and would be the "tighter" of the 4. ...and might pinch and hold for more tacks than the setup that I proposed.

3. I need to get a life!

Eric
 
Hi, sorry for the delay ... the season is ending here and I just tried the Salingmania setup. It works a lot better than my first pic but still needs some adjustment. I think Eric mentioned that we could do even better !? can you explain, I'm not sure.
 

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I think that the sailingmania "method" should work the best ...The pic that you just posted ....it looks almost like it except the free end still needs to be "inside" the eye AND the bowline so that it will be "pinched" when drawn tight.

Take another look at his (sailingmania) and see if I'm making any sense.

I don't think that my modification (that I posted earlier) is any good in comparison

Eric
 
I think that the sailingmania "method" should work the best ...The pic that you just posted ....it looks almost like it except the free end still needs to be "inside" the eye AND the bowline so that it will be "pinched" when drawn tight.

Take another look at his (sailingmania) and see if I'm making any sense.

I don't think that my modification (that I posted earlier) is any good in comparison

Eric

Nope, I don't get it, for me both picture are the same :(

I need to take the free end and pass it through the bow line again :confused:
 
I know Sailingmania's pic is a little fuzzy but look closely at how the free end passes between the eye and the bowline....before continuing on out of sight.

It is in a position where it is pinched against the inside of the metal eye by the bowline

In your latest pic it passes thru the bowline outside the metal eye...and then it continues thru the eye...and then out to where you can pull on it by hand.....it never gets a chance to be pinched.

I wish his (sailingmania) pic had as good of resolution as yours

Eric
 
I know Sailingmania's pic is a little fuzzy but look closely at how the free end passes between the eye and the bowline....before continuing on out of sight.

It is in a position where it is pinched against the metal eye by the bowline

In your latest pic it passes thru the bowline outside the metal eye...and then it continues thru the eye...and then out to where you can pull on it by hand.....it never gets a chance to be pinched.

I wish his (sailingmania) pic had as good of resolution as yours

Eric

I'll take a look again at SailingMania pic tomorrow ... I can't see the detail, it's too fuzzy, maybe after a good night's sleep. :rolleyes:
 
...Part three 17.(c) "The hiking strap supporting line between the aft end of the hiking strap and the eye straps of the aft face of the cockpit may be rigged in any manner so that the hiking strap is fixed or adjustable."

(d) "A shock cord may be attached between the aft end of the hiking strap and to either the traveller cleat, or the hiking strap eye straps at the aft end of the cockpit."
 
The rules as stated don't prohibit the use of hardware in the set-up then - right?

No, but the fundamental rule does. You are not permitted to have anything other than a single piece of rope and a single piece of shock cord.
 
The rules as stated don't prohibit the use of hardware in the set-up then - right?
Are you thinking of mixing in a cleat or something??...I don't know how far "any manner" goes.
AlanD would be good to ask.

Well looky there....AlanD just hit enter before I did!
 
...does the bungee have to go through the same attachment as the line?

I assume you mean on the hiking strap itself. Yes, you are only permitted one loop on the strap. The yellow straps supplied on some boats are actually illegal, but cutting the stitching (1/2" /12mm) that forms the second loop fixes the problem and doesn't impact on the structural integrity of the hiking strap. Some of the Zhik straps also had a second loop, but Brian has corrected the design, by removing the loop. In the last Australian and New Zealand Worlds, we corrected about 400 hiking straps during measurement.

Rule 17(d) covers any other possibility.

"A shock cord may be attached between the aft end of the hiking strap and to either the traveller cleat, or the hiking strap eye straps at the aft end of the cockpit."
 
How many people actually adjust their toes straps rather than just keep tightening them during a race ?

At 61' 1" I find the best way for me is just to have the strap tight all the time. so I've tied it with a couple of bowlines around the eyes. It doesn't slip after every couple of tacks, it's one less thing to worry about.
 
I think that the sailingmania "method" should work the best ...The pic that you just posted ....it looks almost like it except the free end still needs to be "inside" the eye AND the bowline so that it will be "pinched" when drawn tight.

Take another look at his (sailingmania) and see if I'm making any sense.

I don't think that my modification (that I posted earlier) is any good in comparison

Eric

Hi, I don't see that on the picture, I' sorry. All I have to do referring to my picture is to take the free end as it is right now and insert it into the bowline, that's all ?
 
How many people actually adjust their toes straps rather than just keep tightening them during a race ?

At 61' 1" I find the best way for me is just to have the strap tight all the time. so I've tied it with a couple of bowlines around the eyes. It doesn't slip after every couple of tacks, it's one less thing to worry about.

Hi Martyn,

I had a chant with a friend of mine who is in the transitional squad at the moment. He was of the same opinion.... until he sailed in waves. Apparently have the thing adjustbale in waves makes a huge difference.

For us 'pondies' though we can get away with not having it adjustable....
 
Hi, I don't see that on the picture, I' sorry. All I have to do referring to my picture is to take the free end as it is right now and insert it into the bowline, that's all ?
...ok here are some pics that I took of my strap. One of the pics shows a slightly different version...line over instead of under.

Note the bowline ...when pulled tight "grips" or pinches the free end against the metal eye strap.

Good luck, Eric
 

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...You are not permitted to have anything other than a single piece of rope and a single piece of shock cord.
Is that written somewhere official?
No offence, but it seems that the rule allows people to use cleats and the like in their hiking straps.
Could you clear this up?

-Jeff
 
Is that written somewhere official?
No offence, but it seems that the rule allows people to use cleats and the like in their hiking straps.
Could you clear this up?

-Jeff

When a rule stipulates "a line" or "a shockcord"it means strictly one line or one piece of shockcord. When a rule stipulates "lines", multiple are permitted, although they will normally specify a maximum number.

As for cleats, the rule above is talking specifically about using the traveller cleat to hold up the hiking strap, via shockcord. The only cleats permitted on a laser are the traveller, mainsheet (2), cunningham, vang, outhaul on the boom and if you have the builder supplied fitting the outhaul on the deck. The fundamental rule prevents the use of any other cleats, so no cleat is permitted for adjusting the hiking strap.
 
...ok here are some pics that I took of my strap. One of the pics shows a slightly different version...line over instead of under.

Note the bowline ...when pulled tight "grips" or pinches the free end against the metal eye strap.

Good luck, Eric

I just saw you're picture, thanks a lot Eric.

Jacques
 

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