Hi, just got a Super Porpoise

Hi, this is my first post and just wanted to poke my head in and say hi. I have found forums to be a huge help in doing new things, so here I am.
First off all I apologize that I don't have a Sunfish but I have something close. This is a true story that happened last week. I'll try to keep it short.

A friend at work mentioned his grandfather had an old sailboat that they were going to sell. Turns out it was purchased brand new in 1974. The grandfather didn't get around to using it right away so he tied it up from the rafters of his garage. The boat was never touched again until I picked it up last week. All parts were still in their original wrapping and boxes. I put the sail up last night for it's very first time. Hopefully this weekend brings some good sailing weather.

I hope to learn from this forum even though I have a different boat.
Thanks.
 
I will attempt tp post pics on my next break around 2:30. I have scans of the original instructions and parts list too, but those are on my home computer.
 
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You did get a brand new 35 year old boat--looks beautiful and your little sailor looks ready to give her a try!
 
I've got a Porpose II in the same color. At less than 13-feet, it's not my '77 Sunfish's equal. You really have to use the Porpoise' hiking straps due to it's being much narrower. Your Super Porpoise looks longer, and may have fixed that "too-narrow" problem.

A buddy and I went racing today in strong winds, putting me in the Porpoise II.

I won regularly last year, even while switching-off between the two boats. It's not as good as the Sunfish was to windward, but seems to have an edge downwind.

I finished 2nd today, my buddy finished next to last. :p

As seen in the photo, I'd move that gooseneck to the right on the boom. (Raises the boom and keeps the clew from dragging in the water which leads to a capsize).

It is a beautiful-looking boat. That color (and most reds in general) tend to fade readily. Perhaps a coat of wax—right now—can keep that "new" gleam. :)

Congratulations!
 
I've got a Porpose II in the same color. At less than 13-feet, it's not my '77 Sunfish's equal. You really have to use the Porpoise' hiking straps due to it's being much narrower. Your Super Porpoise looks longer, and may have fixed that "too-narrow" problem.

A buddy and I went racing today in strong winds, putting me in the Porpoise II.

I won regularly last year, even while switching-off between the two boats. It's not as good as the Sunfish was to windward, but seems to have an edge downwind.

I finished 2nd today, my buddy finished next to last. :p

As seen in the photo, I'd move that gooseneck to the right on the boom. (Raises the boom and keeps the clew from dragging in the water which leads to a capsize).

It is a beautiful-looking boat. That color (and most reds in general) tend to fade readily. Perhaps a coat of wax—right now—can keep that "new" gleam. :)

Congratulations!

Thank you. the Super Porpoise is 14' 9" long, so it is a little longer than the Sunfish. I have not sailed it yet as I have been working on getting the trailer fit to carry it. My knowledge about sailing stuff is very small right now so it's hard to understand sometimes what i read. I sailed my friends Windflite twice by myself and managed to get back on my own.

As far as sail position, I have the halyard attached where the instruction said to put it. It did not give a dimension as where to put the gooseneck. Seems most Sunfish I see, the "v" of the sail is lower than the tip of the boom, so I will make an adjustment on the gooseneck.

Any other suggestions for me as I am anticipating taking it out for the first time?
 
As far as sail position, I have the halyard attached where the instruction said to put it. It did not give a dimension as where to put the gooseneck. Seems most Sunfish I see, the "v" of the sail is lower than the tip of the boom, so I will make an adjustment on the gooseneck.
You might start out by assuming Molded Products, Inc. put some practical experience into where they placed the gooseneck. Usually the gooseneck is affixed so the sail's attitude is in a functional position simply by attaching the halyard where the instructions say. On a Sunfish this gives the boat handling characteristics suitable for beginning, encroaching on intermediate sailing.

A point of confusion many beginning Sunfish sailors had was the halyard tie-in given by sail attachment points. In some early instructions it was unclear whether to count down from the top or up from the bottom. On the Sunfish it's up from the bottom..., the tack of the sail where boom and spar meet.

Today the recommended tie-in point is between the 9th and 10th sail clip. On recreationally rigged boats where no change is being made to the boom position, this results in a boom with a slight downward slant toward the bow. Competition rigged Sunfish can have an even more exaggerated tilt to the boom when it's re-positioned for certain wind conditions.

As a lateen rig sailor becomes more knowledgeable about the behavior of the boat at different wind strengths, fine tuning the sail's position fore & aft by shifting the boom's position in the gooseneck becomes a useful tool to maintain sailing efficiency. If you are not already familiar with the concept of "weather helm" and identifying, chiefly by feel, when it is becoming excessive, it would be a good idea to leave the gooseneck in its initial location so you have a benchmark to begin experimenting from.

If you choose to pursure adding more fine tuning adjustability at some point, I believe your Super Porpoise carries 85 sq ft of sail on longer spars. The measurements given for adjusting a Sunfish boom to reduce weather helm will apply in a general sense, but you'll eventually be establishing your own graduations along the boom with your trials under different winds.
 
Thank you Wayne. As far as the gooseneck position goes i'm not sure where it's intended to be. the only dimension given in the instructions was the halyard attachment point measured from the top end down. I just figured putting the gooseneck in a position that visually makes the sail look like others that I have seen.
Does this make sense for just starting out?

Also when transporting on the trailer how should my mast, spars and sail be rigged?
rolled up together, sail rolled up next to spars or ???

Is there or do i need a bag for them? I don't want to damage something in transit as i am just starting out.

Thanks.
 
As far as the gooseneck position goes i'm not sure where it's intended to be. the only dimension given in the instructions was the halyard attachment point measured from the top end down. I just figured putting the gooseneck in a position that visually makes the sail look like others that I have seen. Does this make sense for just starting out?
In other words I was mistaken and it did not come pre-installed on the boom? ... Bummer.

Yup, pick a starting point and go from there. You might look into a quick release gooseneck bolt so you can even make boom position changes while out on the water... (Sunfish parts ... or a mountain bike seat post quick release ... what they actually are)



Also when transporting on the trailer how should my mast, spars and sail be rigged? Rolled up together, sail rolled up next to spars or ??? Is there or do i need a bag for them? I don't want to damage something in transit as i am just starting out.
Put the spars together and loosely roll the sail next to, not around them.

Sail/spar bags are nice to keep things free of road grit.

Remember, if things get wet on the trip home, take the sail out of the bag and unroll it to dry.

Check out the current discussion on spar transport...

There's lots more... everyone here could write you a book. But rather than duplicate efforts, you can make use of 95% of what's in the Sunfish Bible and the Knowledge Base here and elsewhere.
http://www.apsltd.com/p-10096-book-the-sunfish-bible.aspx

I think I'd try this halyard location (see picture - redline)
 

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BTW..., where'd you get your trailer and what did it set you back?
It's a 2006 Yacht Club PWC trailer I got off craigslist for $400. Came with bearing buddies and tongue jack. I tool off the bunks and have it rigged up to work for now. this winter I want to make a couple nice padded cradles for it.

Alsp...thanks for your replies!
 
Y'know, that sail may be the most fragile part of your "new" sailboat.

Because of its unique "Porpoise" logo, that sail might never be reproduced or replaced; whereas, nearly everything else can be exchanged with readily-available Sunfish parts. (Except that bow handle, which appears to be a proprietary part).

I'd be tempted to use a second-hand Sunfish sail to start out with, and use the original sail "for show".

(I have a perfect-replacement Sunfish sail on my Porpoise II).

Another item is that rub-rail. Mine has taken a beating over the years, and I'd start looking for a suitable replacement. J.C. Whitney & Co. carried something similar.

Generally speaking, a longer waterline should mean better speed. The Portsmouth Ratings are highly favorable to Sunfish, (rather than to the Sunfish's "clone-fish"). I think that may be due to the higher number of returned reports of race outcomes, rather than some drawback of design.

The Porpoise has a very interesting cockpit drain system. From what I can see from underneath the hull, it apparently "stores" water washed into the cockpit until a favorable boat orientation allows it to drain out! :eek:
 
Y'know, that sail may be the most fragile part of your "new" sailboat.

Because of its unique "Porpoise" logo, that sail might never be reproduced or replaced; whereas, nearly everything else can be exchanged with readily-available Sunfish parts. (Except that bow handle, which appears to be a proprietary part).

I'd be tempted to use a second-hand Sunfish sail to start out with, and use the original sail "for show".

(I have a perfect-replacement Sunfish sail on my Porpoise II).

Another item is that rub-rail. Mine has taken a beating over the years, and I'd start looking for a suitable replacement. J.C. Whitney & Co. carried something similar.

Generally speaking, a longer waterline should mean better speed. The Portsmouth Ratings are highly favorable to Sunfish, (rather than to the Sunfish's "clone-fish"). I think that may be due to the higher number of returned reports of race outcomes, rather than some drawback of design.

The Porpoise has a very interesting cockpit drain system. From what I can see from underneath the hull, it apparently "stores" water washed into the cockpit until a favorable boat orientation allows it to drain out! :eek:

I know what you mean about the sail, but I believe the Super Porpoise has 85 sq. ft. of sail versus the 75 sq. ft. of the Sunfish. I don't know if this difference would matter much.
 
Took my Super Porpoise out today for the first time. Wow, what fun. The wind was a little gusty and kept changing directions. It felt very much like Fall today. We'd be moving along pretty well and all of a sudden the the sail would go loose and a few times it would even want to switch to the other side. I don't have much "feel" for the boat yet so any time a gust came up i'd let the sail out some, but it felt like it really would move much quicker than I was letting it go. I have to get comfortable with the amount of heel it takes to get speed. Can't wait to do it again!
 
1974,
congrats - that "new" boat is gorgeous. I have a Super Porpoise as well - not as nearly as nice, though :( The previous owner just kept the whole thing lying on the ground outside, but I also only paid $50 for it, so I can't complain too much. I later bought a Sunfish with a trailer, so I haven't used the Super Porpoise much lately, but have been keeping it stored in my garage for when my boys get old enough to sail solo.

One thing to consider adding as an "upgrade" - from the pictures, and if your boat is similar to mine, there is currently no block and/or cleat for the mainsheet. It might be something you want to add to ease the load put on your hands holding the mainsheet the whole time.

This post (http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthread.php?t=29738) has some good discussion on which models and setup options to consider. My biggest concern with your brand new boat would be how to install it, though... I'd hate to cut a hole for an inspection port just for installing the screws to attach it. Maybe someone with more experience can comment on a way to attach a cam cleat and block (or something similar) without having some kind of backing or a way to attach nuts to the back-side... maybe self-drilling screws? I'm just not sure they'd be adequate for the loading.

I did email a sail shop - they quoted me $377 for a new Super Porpoise sail... not exactly the $150 you can pay for a (non-class legal) recreational Sunfish sail, so take care of that baby.

Again, congrats on a sweet looking "new" boat.
 
Hello, i just came across all of this and im finding great information about my super Porpoise. I am currently restoring it, i have it in 2 pieces, replacing the water logged foam in it. I can post pictures if anybody is interested to see what it looks like inside.
 
Y'know, that sail may be the most fragile part of your "new" sailboat.

Because of its unique "Porpoise" logo, that sail might never be reproduced or replaced; whereas, nearly everything else can be exchanged with readily-available Sunfish parts. (Except that bow handle, which appears to be a proprietary part).

I'd be tempted to use a second-hand Sunfish sail to start out with, and use the original sail "for show".

(I have a perfect-replacement Sunfish sail on my Porpoise II).

Another item is that rub-rail. Mine has taken a beating over the years, and I'd start looking for a suitable replacement. J.C. Whitney & Co. carried something similar.

Generally speaking, a longer waterline should mean better speed. The Portsmouth Ratings are highly favorable to Sunfish, (rather than to the Sunfish's "clone-fish"). I think that may be due to the higher number of returned reports of race outcomes, rather than some drawback of design.

The Porpoise has a very interesting cockpit drain system. From what I can see from underneath the hull, it apparently "stores" water washed into the cockpit until a favorable boat orientation allows it to drain out! :eek:
sweet boat!
 
Greetings!

Hope you're still around and your Porpoise is still "right side up"

I came upon a somewhat weathered but servicable Super Porpoise that I am refurbishing for the Boy Scouts use at camp. If you have the owners manual or set up instructions from your "new" boat, I'd appreciate a copy - happy to pay any associated costs. And of course, lots of pictures :)
 
Hello--new to the forum here and I have pretty good condition Super Porpose (red) that has a few dings that I can repair. My questions are: How to keep the clip from disconnecting from the rudder attachment point. I am thinking of putting a loop in the rope and running the rope through the metal ring thing on top of the rudder than clipping to the loop about a foot or so above the boat. I like the cable thing on the back of a Sun Fish, and I have seen pics of an SP with those on, but how can I install that on my boat?

Second, how can I install the block thing near the center board to hold the rope? Do I have to install and inspection port to allow access?

Third, my boat was stored in a barn for 30 years and the front 2.5 feet is faded. How to safely get rid of the fade or restore it. I tried some rubbing compound by hand and it worked for a little while but it came back. I never did get the nice shine like the rest of the boat.

The sail is in pretty good shape but has a few small holes. How best to repair them?

The rudder has a split in it. I sanded it and put several coats of spar varnish on it and the center board and they look pretty good now. How best to close the split and seal it?

My wife is the better sailor on this boat--she grew up with a Sunfish and with this boat she can usually beat them. I can hold my own, but I am too old and fat to hop from side to side and have bad knees from downhill skiing and dirt biking so I don't got out in strong winds like she does--I just put on my jacket and lay in the bottom and cruise the lake when the wind is mellow--like 5-9 mph--and spill the wind when the boat starts leaning too much. I can pretty much go where I want to and get back, but some times not as fast as I would like!

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

PS: I did ham radio Field Day last year from a 36' Catalina on Lake Michigan and had a blast!
 
By the way--my boat looks exactly like the one pictured above, but not quite as nice. My rudder clip thing is woven into the rope. I live about 20 miles from where my boat was made! Too bad they are no longer in business!
 
"...I am thinking of putting a loop in the rope and running the rope through the metal ring thing on top of the rudder than clipping to the loop about a foot or so above the boat. I like the cable thing on the back of a Sun Fish, and I have seen pics of an SP with those on, but how can I install that on my boat...?"

You may end up preferring the metal ring thing, as you have some control over getting the tiller to return to you.

"...Second, how can I install the block thing near the center board to hold the rope? Do I have to install an inspection port to allow access...?"
My Porpoise II didn't have "a space" to install one. I installed it on the top of the daggerboard, which wasn't awful.

Check your other fittings for strength, and check your boat for excessive weight. You may want an inspection port or two (elsewhere on the boat) to dry it out. The removed disk can be the basis for a mounting point for a mainsheet block—and retain the same maroon color. (Pre-made fiberglass structures are available at specialized boating supply stores.

Using West epoxy, you could bond a small unobtrusive fiberglass plate—braced to the forward cockpit bulkhead for strength. (You can make the plate yourself, using West epoxy and fiberglass cloth). It doesn't have to be very big, as two bolts (and one screw to the deck) would be enough to hold it—and you won't want to bump into it while sailing.

"...Third, my boat was stored in a barn for 30 years and the front 2.5 feet is faded. How to safely get rid of the fade or restore it. I tried some rubbing compound by hand and it worked for a little while but it came back. I never did get the nice shine like the rest of the boat...Any tips would be greatly appreciated."

That maroon (red) can't take the sun. A friend suggested Vaseline, which worked for about three months. I first removed a square decal (lower right) which had protected the finish for many years. You can see where I started the Vaseline treatment towards the top of the picture.

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Well, I lost everything I'd written above :( but using "History", restored it! :D

As far as "sailing reclined", there are "sail-tuning" ways to reduce the strength of your sail. It couldn't hurt to have a second set of spars (and gooseneck) with a Mini-Fish [smaller area] sail for those great days when you don't mind getting wet, but there's whitecaps all around.
 
The removed disc can be the basis for a mounting point for a mainsheet block—and retain the same maroon color. (Pre-made fiberglass structures are available at specialized boating supply stores).

The photo below explains what I was describing earlier on my Porpoise II:

GEDC0200.JPG


The [removed] disc could be cut to any shape for your new block, but it should be rounded anywhere your body could contact or slide across it. Bond it to the deck, but leave room for at least small two bolts, and the one screw forward.
 
In other words I was mistaken and it did not come pre-installed on the boom? ... Bummer.

Yup, pick a starting point and go from there. You might look into a quick release gooseneck bolt so you can even make boom position changes while out on the water... (Sunfish parts ... or a mountain bike seat post quick release ... what they actually are)




Put the spars together and loosely roll the sail next to, not around them.

Sail/spar bags are nice to keep things free of road grit.

Remember, if things get wet on the trip home, take the sail out of the bag and unroll it to dry.

Check out the current discussion on spar transport...

There's lots more... everyone here could write you a book. But rather than duplicate efforts, you can make use of 95% of what's in the Sunfish Bible and the Knowledge Base here and elsewhere.
http://www.apsltd.com/p-10096-book-the-sunfish-bible.aspx

I think I'd try this halyard location (see picture - redline)
I feel that the sail is too high in that position and will cause too much heel and threat of capsize.
You can try it but be alert to strong wind puffs. Good luck.

FredP
 
Could someone with an inspection port please show me how those cockpit drain tubes are set up inside the hull? I just got my hands on a Super Porpoise and the only apparent problem is that those drains are sitting a little high in the cockpit floor and the seal is broken. Previous owner gobbed some calk around them and went sailing, but I'd like to fix the problem if I can. The boat has been in the garage for about 20 years, so it's probably pretty dry. I haven't weighed it. Thanks, Marty
 
Hi!

Writing here as former-member Porpoise2 (from page 1) those cockpit drains have always been a mystery to me. :confused:

After removing the three screws that hold the scoop to the hull, peer into the drain from the bottom of the hull, and see if this sketch—drawn from memory—agrees with what you see:

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It appeared to me that an open-topped cylinder of 3" black PVC caught water from the cockpit, then drained via the bottom scoop. (Clever, if it really worked as intended). :cool:
 
Hi!

Writing here as former-member Porpoise2 (from page 1) those cockpit drains have always been a mystery to me. :confused:

After removing the three screws that hold the scoop to the hull, peer into the drain from the bottom of the hull, and see if this sketch—drawn from memory—agrees with what you see:

View attachment 23886

It appeared to me that an open-topped cylinder of 3" black PVC caught water from the cockpit, then drained via the bottom scoop. (Clever, if it really worked as intended). :cool:



OK, I pulled the 'scoops' off the bottom. They look like Perko clam shell ventilators. No fancy reservoirs for me. They are each just covering the end of a flared tube that runs directly from the aft corners of the cockpit straight down and through the hull. It seems that if I can free both ends, I should be able to draw them down through the bottom, cut the extra length off if necessary, seal the bejeepers out of them and be done. Probably somebody who was a little too heavy stood in the cockpit when the boat was on land and sunk the cockpit a quarter inch closer to the hull.

By the way, regarding the halyard and boom clamp locations, I measured the spars and the SP spars are only a couple of percent longer than Sunfish spars. Add 3 or 4 percent to the Sunfish recommendations and take it from there. I know it's more complicated than that based on the relative locations of the mast and centerboard, etc. but you'll be within an acceptable range to start. Many of the pictures that I have seen show the spars really high on the mast, which would make the boat very tender and probably give you hellacious weather helm with so little sail in front of the mast to push the nose down.
 

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