Halyard cleat

Thread starter #1
I have a used boat, and thanks to the great info I have been given here I'm almost ready to sail. I believe I'm down to my last problem, one of the holes for the halyard cleat is stripped. Only one screw was holding it. Can I fill the stripped holed with fiberglass and drill it and use a new screw?
Thanks
Gene
 
#2
Here's something to consider....

1) If you have an inspection port, overdrill the stripped hole, put tape over the bottom of the hole inside the boat, pour west system resin in the hole, let it cure, then re-drill through solid resin. Makes a very solid connection.

2) If no inspection port, consider putting one in.

3) If no inspection port still, try to fill in hole with thickened epoyx (ex: epoxy and colloidal silica filler).

4) Maybe consider putting a halyard cleat on the mast too. There is a lot of information/good reasons on why to do this. You still need to fix the cleat on the deck though.

BTW...where are you on the eastern shore of MD? I have a good friend living in Cambridge MD with a sunfish looking for a fleet.

Good luck,

Tim
 
#3
I've seen a few racers put the halyard cleat right on the mast, about 2 feet above the deck. They claim it is easier to tension and removes that excess pressure from the deck. Structurally that makes sense but I have never bothered to change mine.

Good Luck,
Craig
 
#4
Do put a halyard cleat in the side of the mast about 2 feet above the deck. It does all the right things. First, it will not pull out as you will be fastening the cleat to the mast with self-taping stainless steel screws or pop rivets. Metal on metal is always better than metal on fiberglass. Second, the cleat on the mast prevents most of the "down" pressure that eventually causes the base of the mast to grind on the bottom of the mast hole. The mast rotates in the hole better and will not grind its way through the bottom as fast. Two types of cleats seem to be favored, the regular horned cleat like you have on the deck or a small, aluminum clam cleat. I prefer the horned cleat, but either works fine. Keep the fairlead and cleat on the deck so you can secure a vang using the tail of the halyard. You also need to have the mast cleated to the deck in the event of a capsize (so you don't lose the whole rig overboard.)

Alan Glos
 
#5
A mast cleat not only does all the things Alan said but it also helps stop the droop you get after sailing for a few minutes and having the halyard strech from the rotation of the mast.
It also make putting a vang on very easy. Just through the bulls eye over the goosneck, back through the bullseye and to the deck halyard cleat. Without the mast cleat you are fighting the entire rigs weight to put on a vang or have to many times going thought the bulleye deck fitting. You can actually adjust the vang while sailing without having the whole rig come down on you.
 
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