ylojelo
Member
after a closer look, it seems that my 35 year old nylon pulley has seized. Is the replacement bullseye a direct fit or should I fashion a way to attach a new pulley?
Measure the center line-to-center line of the screws. Fairleads come in a couple of different CL to CL sizes. Did you notice the pad for your block is turned 90* from the way newer Sunfish have the Bullseye fairlead mounted? You could fill the old holes and drill new if you want to install a fairlead in the current orientation. Then it's a non-issue.after a closer look, it seems that my 35 year old nylon pulley has seized. Is the replacement bullseye a direct fit or should I fashion a way to attach a new pulley?
yeah, soon after I posted. The easiest thing to do then is find a matching replacement? Funtionality should be pretty much the same either way, right?Did you notice the pad for your block is turned 90* from the way newer Sunfish have the Bullseye fairlead mounted?
Hi Wayne: I saw your post on this thread and wonder if you can help me. I bought an old (pre 1972?) Sunfish and the bullseye fairlead appears to be broken. All there is next to the mast is a slightly concave oval bronze(?) plate with I think 2 holes that, I assume, originally fitted the actual fairlead ring. I noticed that the plate is, as you say in your post, at 90 degrees to way fairleads are oriented now (and which makes most sense since you're running the halyard along the deck to the cleat). Do you know if I can still get a replacement for this bronze, old-style fairlead, or how I would replace this one with a new style one? I guess there is a plate underneath the old fairlead, but I'm not sure if the fasteners I have with the new fairlead are self-tapping. Anyway, thanks for any advice. SimonMeasure the center line-to-center line of the screws. Fairleads come in a couple of different CL to CL sizes. Did you notice the pad for your block is turned 90* from the way newer Sunfish have the Bullseye fairlead mounted? You could fill the old holes and drill new if you want to install a fairlead in the current orientation. Then it's a non-issue.
You could also put in a new block. Racelite is still around. RWO, Harken, and Ronstan all make small base pads or eyestraps that can be combined with a small swivel block of an equivalent size.
Unfortunately, Wayne passed away Oct 9, 2010...
We all miss him...
As Alan says, your boat had a block (pulley) attached to that plate. Newer boats have a fairlead, not a block. Buying a replacement part from Alan will be your simplest and probably best solution. BBAll there is next to the mast is a slightly concave oval bronze(?) plate with I think 2 holes that, I assume, originally fitted the actual fairlead ring.
Yes, that's what I'm going to do, thanks!As Alan says, your boat had a block (pulley) attached to that plate. Newer boats have a fairlead, not a block. Buying a replacement part from Alan will be your simplest and probably best solution. BB
Hi Alan! Super old thread but if you get this, do you still have any fairleads or have any advice? Mine is missing entirely from my 1968 sunfish. Worried that it might be letting water into the hull as well. Not sure if that’s a possibility. Let me know if you can help, thanks!I have several of the original deck mount halyard blocks (with the oval base that you mentioned) and if you want one, e-mail me at: aglos@colgate.edu and I can reply with with prices and logistics for getting one to you.
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
Hi Alan! Thanks a lot for the thorough response. I think I’m going to opt for the second option — fill the holes and put a cleat on the mast. Thanks a ton though! Probably will be coming back with some more questions. You seem to have all the answers!The good news is that I do have this part in stock. The bad news is that the wood block under the deck that this fitting screws into may have rotted away or come loose from the underside of the deck and has fallen into the bilge. In this event, you have nothing to screw the fitting into as the fiberglass deck is too thin to take the load. I suggetst you get a woodscrew that fits the hole on the deck, screw it (gently) into the hole and see if it still holds. If yes, buy the block from me ($15 + shipping) and install it with the screws I will provide and some epoxy in the screw holes. If no, fill the screw holes with epoxy, install a cleat on the mast (about 2' up from the deck), let the mast cleat carry the load of the halyard and tie off the loose end of the halyard in the event you capsize (and don't want the rig to separate from the boat.)
Let me know what you find out.
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
Hi Alan! Super old thread but if you get this, do you still have any fairleads or have any advice? Mine is missing entirely from my 1968 sunfish. Worried that it might be letting water into the hull as well. Not sure if that’s a possibility. Let me know if you can help, thanks!
Good plan. The mast halyard cleat is a good rig as it reduces the "down" thrust of the mast on the bottom of the mast hole and actually makes he boat a (little) easier to tack. Go for it.Hi Alan! Thanks a lot for the thorough response. I think I’m going to opt for the second option — fill the holes and put a cleat on the mast. Thanks a ton though! Probably will be coming back with some more questions. You seem to have all the answers!