Getting ready

Did the oxy clean scrub a dub on top followed by el-cheapo bleach, in sun, as recommended by Alan.

Now to the bottom.

Assume I'll use a bit of elbow grease to get crud off bow and then repeat what I did on top??

Does this bailer look ok? Seller had boat in water when I looked at it so assume there is a ball in there somewhere
 

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Does this bailer look ok? Seller had boat in water when I looked at it so assume there is a ball in there somewhere
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I've spent hours trying to rehabilitate those metal bailers made by De Persia.

The $50 plastic. bailers are trouble-free in comparison. It's important that Sunfish owners not step inside the cockpit when the hull is supported by wood or concrete. Or, as Beldar noted, only step inside when the boat is on the water.

Think of those plastic bailers as being fragile, 'cause they will break catastrophically or lose a pin or two along fracture lines. Check for loose pins, and reseat them if you can move them.

New plastic bailers can be installed with- or-without the O-ring that fits outside. Extra-large, I believe it was intended as a shock absorber to limit damage if the plastic bailer is stressed in some way.

Replacement polyethylene balls are available for both De Persia and plastic bailers. "Minimum-purchases" range from five to fifty! :eek:

For the recreational Sunfish sailor, I suggest replacing the $50 plastic bailer with a $6 rubber "freeze plug", available at automotive supply stores. Inch and a quarter diameter will get it done. Put the larger washer on the inside.
 
The ball, in theory, would float up and seal against the bottom chamfered inner edge of the bailer cap. The bailer cap could be screwed completely closed to close the drain hole in the cap threads, or left partly open so cockpit water could drain, either by gravity while the boat was ashore or by venturi effect while the boat was significantly underway.

Alcort recommended putting Vaseline on the cap threads once a month.

DePersia Bailer parts.png
 

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