Epoxy voids in mast step

[brockenspectre]

The first thing I'm worried about in my new Sunfish purchase are apparent voids of epoxy in the mast step. See the lighter colored patches in the pictures? Those are spots where the resin did not wet the fiberglass and it appears to be bare. Should I fill these? West System or MarineTex? Technique?

The daggerboard "port" also is missing resin.

 

[L&VW]

In your last photograph, one clear marking near the top could be damage from jockeying the 10-foot mast while the boat wasn't stabilized. (Hull rocked due to sudden gust, losing one's balance, stepping on the loose halyard, doggy stepping aboard ).

Chances are, if the void occurred at the factory, trying to fill the void won't be successful.

However, you could buy a ball-honer or use the very coarsest sandpaper available to prepare the surface for a fresh coat (or two) of epoxy resin.

Even if the voids aren't filled, any small perforations (that can let water in) could benefit. A 2-inch dish-mop ($1 at Dollar Tree) could be used to evenly apply the resin. It's been suggested several years ago that inflating a balloon inside will assure a smooth finish.

As for the daggerboard trunk, MarineTex or Thixo can be applied by hand without affecting the smooth operation of the daggerboard. (Use a glove).


I think most "used" Sunfish have those apparent "voids".

 

[signal charlie]

Howdy and congratulations on your new boat! She'll need a name, soon.

The voids are where the polyester resin has flaked off. You can test to see if there are leaks by pouring water into the mast step and seeing if it disappears. That will give you an idea if there are actual holes and their location.

We fill those with thickened epoxy, which could be West Systems thickened with 206 colloidal silica, TotalBoat THIXO, Pettit Flexpoxy or Marine Tex epoxy putty. We use a paint stir stick to smooth a layer of thickened epoxy over the void areas, either with a brush tied to the stick or just the stick itself. Once it dries we sand if needed, usually not as long as a thin layer is applied.

Stop your pondering...

Same approach to the daggerboard trunk except we cut the stick in half vertically so it will fit inside the curved ends of the trunk. We file the hardened epoxy with a half round/flat file.

 

[L&VW]

It could be worse!

One of my Sunfish had a major tear in its daggerboard trunk. Unknown how this happened: I just noticed that one edge is sharper than the other.

It's possibly a botched repair, which I fixed with West Systems and thickener. (Now, thanks to Signal Charlie's information, I'm saving a few bucks converting to Thixo).

 

[Alan S. Glos]

Yes, this is a common problem. Tape a disposable paint brush to a paint stir stick to get a paintbrush with a long reach, mix up some thickened epoxy, "paint" the thin areas with a thick coat of epoxy and pour a good amount in the bottom of the tube. Let cure. If the mast still fits and rotates easily, you are good to go. If not, you can sand the inside of the tube with a sanding drum mounted in an drill extension shaft, a few bucks at any big box store or Harbor Freight, see photos. This rig takes all the work out of this internal sanding task in the mast tube or daggerboard trunk.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY

 

[norcalsail]

This is a repair I need to do on the Oldfish in Wisconsin. it doesn't leak as far as I can tell but it could use some attention before it gets worse.

 

[4cpus4me]

I say we 3D print a tool, which is the right size cylinder to go into the mast step and use rubber sqeegee strips in a helical fashion at the proper taper angle to smooth out the Thixo. Rotate it the right direction and it will bring out the excess material leaving a smooth interior.

 

[L&VW]

Even if the voids aren't filled, any small perforations (that can let water in) could benefit. A 2-inch dish-mop ($1 at Dollar Tree) could be used to evenly apply the resin. It's been suggested several years ago that inflating a balloon inside will assure a smooth finish.

As for the daggerboard trunk, MarineTex or Thixo can be applied by hand without affecting the smooth operation of the daggerboard. (Use a glove).


I think most "used" Sunfish have those apparent "voids".

Y'know, as the last step, using air to inflate a balloon inside the mast step could be difficult. Why not use a small funnel, a long straw (or tube), and a quart of water?

Although doubtful the balloon could be retrieved intact, it might capture the repaired area on its surface. (And maybe display other defective areas that would need more attention).

 

[L&VW]

Surprising is the number of Gorilla products that are just tape!

I'm NOT recommending the product, but Amazon popped up with a Gorilla product that might work in a pinch. It's Gorilla Waterproof Sealer-Spray for roofs, gutters, and sunroofs. Self-leveling and available in black or WHITE, it could be the answer for "quick and dirty" daggerboard trunk leak repairs in rental fleets.

Nowhere is it mentioned for use in one's hair!

The undeniable hold of 'Gorilla Glue Girl' and what it says about the empathy of the internet

Tessica Brown got herself in a sticky situation, and it's inspired a lot of eye rolls -- and genuine concern.

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