El Cheapo Tiller Fix ($15)

[DrSteve]

I posted earlier about needing to find a cost effective tiller replacement for my well-loved Laser. The cheapest someone here found online was about $60 for a wooden tiller and I found a Gorilla stick with tiller for $125.

My solution came from Ace Hardware…a 3ft length of 1inch square aluminum tube for $15. It fits in the (presumably) OEM rudder assembly like hand in a glove.

I chose to cut off about an inch and then file down one side to a slight angle, slotted it in and drilled a hole through the existing pin hole and repeated the process going left/right. Time to cut, file, and drill…$15 mins. Fun in my Laser is still TBD as I have only just rehabbed it - but some things aren’t really questions.

PS. I doubt this is class legal. That’s not a problem for me - I’ve raced plenty (mostly in Enterprise) but I’m not a great tactician. This boat will be used to thrash around in the waters around Annapolis.

 

[LaLi]

I doubt this is class legal.

The only illegal thing about that is the horizontal hole(s) in the stainless top part of the rudder head.

Functional problems: 1) It’s a bit short (about 1 m is standard). Not a huge deal, but makes you feel a tiny bit more weather helm.
2) The edges look sharp enough to kill your traveller line pretty quickly. It also looks like it will point quite high above the deck, which adds to the same problem.
3) The extension looks very short. Will make it hard to steer and hike at the same time.

Good idea otherwise

_

 

[DrSteve]

The only illegal thing about that is the horizontal hole(s) in the stainless top part of the rudder head.

Functional problems: 1) It’s a bit short (about 1 m is standard). Not a huge deal, but makes you feel a tiny bit more weather helm.
2) The edges look sharp enough to kill your traveller line pretty quickly. It also looks like it will point quite high above the deck, which adds to the same problem.
3) The extension looks very short. Will make it hard to steer and hike at the same time.

Good idea otherwise

_

Thank you!

Interesting that a second screw is the difference between legal and illegal!

For the tiller length is that “1m” measured as total length, or from the front edge of the rudder head? This one is about the same size as the wooden original - 90cm. If I decide I want longer, a 4ft tube is only $18.

At least now I don’t see why the traveller will contact the sharper edges. The external edges of the tube are slightly rounded. I’m sure I’ll find out when I actually get out on the water.

Yes it is angled up high. Only reason was to have it follow the line of the rudder housing and not to interfere with the deck lines. But an easy thing to change. Again I’m sure I’ll see when I’m on the water.

The extension is about 90cm and came with the boat. I will almost certainly want something longer (TWSS). I’ll probably try an extruded C fibre tube and see how that works. Those are only $10-20.

Who knows maybe I’ll make a sideline selling finished pieces for $60+shipping.

Fair winds (if that’s what you like-I’ll take a force 3-4 and 1-2ft waves)

 

[LaLi]

Interesting that a second screw is the difference between legal and illegal!

Well yeah, you basically can’t drill extra holes (or even enlarge existing ones) in builder-supplied parts. It’s also questionable if screwing the tiller in place fulfills the ”capable of being removed” in the rules. At least no one else is doing it.

For the tiller length is that “1m” measured as total length, or from the front edge of the rudder head? This one is about the same size as the wooden original - 90cm.

It’s the complete length. The idea is that it just barely doesn’t extend to the cockpit.
The original tillers were longer (115 cm maybe), so some earlier owner has shortened yours.

At least now I don’t see why the traveller will contact the sharper edges. The external edges of the tube are slightly rounded. I’m sure I’ll find out when I actually get out on the water.

Yes it is angled up high. Only reason was to have it follow the line of the rudder housing and not to interfere with the deck lines.

If you adjust the traveller even close to what’s considered right, then it will be in near-constant contact with the tiller... and except in very light air, under tension. And the higher the tiller points, the higher the friction!

The extension is about 90cm and came with the boat. I will almost certainly want something longer

Around 110 cm is what I consider a comfortable ”recreational” length. I have used, and been quite happy with, 120 myself. The top racers used to go up to 130, but I believe the current trend is back towards 125.

_

 

[DrSteve]

Well yeah, you basically can’t drill extra holes (or even enlarge existing ones) in builder-supplied parts. It’s also questionable if screwing the tiller in place fulfills the ”capable of being removed” in the rules. At least no one else is doing it.


It’s the complete length. The idea is that it just barely doesn’t extend to the cockpit.
The original tillers were longer (115 cm maybe), so some earlier owner has shortened yours.


If you adjust the traveller even close to what’s considered right, then it will be in near-constant contact with the tiller... and except in very light air, under tension. And the higher the tiller points, the higher the friction!


Around 110 cm is what I consider a comfortable ”recreational” length. I have used, and been quite happy with, 120 myself. The top racers used to go up to 130, but I believe the current trend is back towards 125.

_

Awesome info thank you!

 

[The Sailboat Doctor]

Yep, tiller just needs to be straight and then pinned, or not, per the class rules. The Traveller block will not cross as easily as you'd like with the hard edges of the square tubing when the traveler is at its tight as possible setting for best closshauled performance. Having the tiller as low as possible like the production tillers is best to for best performance and block clearance.
The best tiller length is generally to the back of cockpit like current production, and then the shortest extension length would be up to the mainsheet block at the front of the cockpit when extended forward. This allows steering clearance when hiked out and at the back of the cockpit on screaming reach, and allows full hiking at front of cockpit when close hauled. Even longer extensions are good for some, but not everyone is sailing in heavy seas, 15-20 knots all the time when a longer extension by 8 inches or so would be a benefit.
The reason the extension is much longer than the very original production style is so you can hold the extension like a ski pole at your chest, not like a club by your side. The ski pole way allows both hands to be at your chest or belly for instant hand over hand sheeting in or out, and so one hand can easily hold the extension and the sheet, so then the free hand can make sail control adjustments, shift the daggerboard up or down, wipe your brow, etc.