When drilling into fiberglass you risk having the stuff shatter. To overcome this use a Hole Saw with very slight pressure. You can get a Hole Saw kit at Harbor freight for less than nine bucks if you have a 20%off coupon. If you do not live near a HF then scond choice would be a diamond tip drill point. Third choice is to cover the drill area with tape and use a sharp drill pont. This is the method of last resort especialy if the point is not super sharp. In all cases let the drill point do the work...only apply enough pressure to keep the drill upright. I offer this as a former employee of a kayak shop and former co-owner of a kayak touring company where fiberglass repairs were part of the job.The drain hole in the deck sometimes is clogged with loose bits of yellow- or white- plastic (foam) material.
The transom is very thin, and a smooth hole is difficult to drill. Be prepared to install a brass bushing, and seal it well.
Works well with this $8 battery-powered bailer:Not a fan of adding holes close to or below the waterline. My choice would be an inspection port on the deck.
Thats where the drain plug for mine is. Like to add to the fiberglass advice:. Look for a diamond hole cutter the size of your drain pl.ug. I use one made by Lenox Lowes should have them but expect to pay upwards of the low 20's for one. Make a template out of a piece of wood with a wood drill point. Tape it to where you want to drill. Have a friend stand by with a bottle of water. Now start drilling as he pours..keep drilling and pouring. Stop after a minute or so and remove the template. You should be able to fit the drill point into what you drilled. Continue drilling... and poring and within ten seconds or so you should have a perfect hole. Templates keep the gel coat from shattering.Hello. I have water in the hull of a 1972 sunfish that I want to get rid off. Was thinking of drilling a small hole 1/2 inch in diameter just below the rudder attachment so I can then lift up the bow to drain the water. Bad idea? Any other suggestions?