imported_Matt
New Member
I have a 1987 boat and bought the boat with the drain plug seized and sealed shut. I cannot get it to open but definitley need the drain capabilities. How can this be reapired and/or replaced?
Drain Plug Siezed
- Thread starter imported_Matt
- Start date
I had the same issue on a 74 hull. I gave it a couple doses of PB Blaster; a penetrating oil that works well in automotive applications. Dosen't appear to affect the glass. Let it
work over night and was able to get it off with a small pipe wrench. It looks like the threads; both male and female, had oxidized. I cleaned them up as best I could and it was still too difficult to operate by hand. I think it'll will be replaced before next season.....maybe we'll just slosh around!!
work over night and was able to get it off with a small pipe wrench. It looks like the threads; both male and female, had oxidized. I cleaned them up as best I could and it was still too difficult to operate by hand. I think it'll will be replaced before next season.....maybe we'll just slosh around!!
Porpoise2
New Member
Re: Drain Plug Seized
I have the same issue on my '76! Not only is the plug painted over, the screwdriver slot is hopelessly damaged, too.
Isn't the plug straight thread? If that is the case, it will be hard to find a replacement. Most other replacement plugs (brass or galvanized) are a standard NPT (household pipe thread).
I was just reading of "two dimples" here—which gives me an idea....
For me, it may be easiest to drill two small holes in the plug, put screws in them, and turn with a pry tool. (After using CRC or WD-40 spray in the holes and around the plug).
I may have a plastic plug to replace the existing no-longer-good plug. (I'm not too stressed about originality).
I have the same issue on my '76! Not only is the plug painted over, the screwdriver slot is hopelessly damaged, too.
Isn't the plug straight thread? If that is the case, it will be hard to find a replacement. Most other replacement plugs (brass or galvanized) are a standard NPT (household pipe thread).
I was just reading of "two dimples" here—which gives me an idea....
For me, it may be easiest to drill two small holes in the plug, put screws in them, and turn with a pry tool. (After using CRC or WD-40 spray in the holes and around the plug).
I may have a plastic plug to replace the existing no-longer-good plug. (I'm not too stressed about originality).
Oh, that's the drain plug that's stuck - drain plug, not bailer - right. Now I'm the one who didn't read down the list far enough - got me
Well, a pipe wrench won't help there. I tend to pull the old screw and install one of the new plastic drain plugs and housings. With a Dremel tool you can cut out the old screw pretty easily. Hope if you were trying penetrating oil you were very careful not to flood the fiberglass. Sealer won't stick long where oil has gotten in the fiberglass layers. You could find a 6" circle of fiberglass delaminating where the oil has wicked into the layers. Be very careful with oils around raw fiberglass edges.
Well, a pipe wrench won't help there. I tend to pull the old screw and install one of the new plastic drain plugs and housings. With a Dremel tool you can cut out the old screw pretty easily. Hope if you were trying penetrating oil you were very careful not to flood the fiberglass. Sealer won't stick long where oil has gotten in the fiberglass layers. You could find a 6" circle of fiberglass delaminating where the oil has wicked into the layers. Be very careful with oils around raw fiberglass edges.
Re: Drain Plug Seized
Why not drill one hole and use an easy-out type stud extractor? You can get all the leverage in the world on one, and the more you torque it the tighter it bites.I have the same issue on my '76! Not only is the plug painted over, the screwdriver slot is hopelessly damaged, too.
Isn't the plug straight thread? If that is the case, it will be hard to find a replacement. Most other replacement plugs (brass or galvanized) are a standard NPT (household pipe thread).
I was just reading of "two dimples" here—which gives me an idea....
For me, it may be easiest to drill two small holes in the plug, put screws in them, and turn with a pry tool. (After using CRC or WD-40 spray in the holes and around the plug).
I may have a plastic plug to replace the existing no-longer-good plug. (I'm not too stressed about originality).
Porpoise2
New Member
I don't have the boat in front of me, but I recall that the plug is made of brass. Being a "soft" metal, the extractor tends to bite into it fine, but a large extractor can expand the brass, making it tighter yet. (Possibly damaging the deck). A small extractor can break off, making the problem worse.
The paint will probably exclude any kind of "Liquid Wrench" product, so I have to assume that I have a fitting that has corroded into a "one-piece fitting".
Plus, my extractor tools (and left-hand drill bits) are 2000 miles away!
Discussing this has suggested still another option.
I could drill two 1/8" holes, and pop-rivet a stainless steel "handle" onto it. That would allow some penetrating fluid in and possibly save the plug after the rivets are drilled out. (Or just cut the handle off, lightly grease the threads, and retain some additional leverage for the next draining).
The paint will probably exclude any kind of "Liquid Wrench" product, so I have to assume that I have a fitting that has corroded into a "one-piece fitting".
Plus, my extractor tools (and left-hand drill bits) are 2000 miles away!
Discussing this has suggested still another option.
I could drill two 1/8" holes, and pop-rivet a stainless steel "handle" onto it. That would allow some penetrating fluid in and possibly save the plug after the rivets are drilled out. (Or just cut the handle off, lightly grease the threads, and retain some additional leverage for the next draining).
isleofwightlen
Member
Here's what I did on a couple of older Sunfish & it worked both times ;
1. Tap the small pin down through the outer flange of the drain plug ( it will fall down into the hull , probably never to be seen again )
2. With a suitable screwdriver try turning the seized drain bolt , if the drain assembly rotates , then gently prise it up from the deck. If it doesn't budge , slip a razor blade all around between the flange & the deck , then gently try turning & prising again.
3. You should be able to remove the whole drain assembly , leaving a clean hole , plus the smaller hole where the pin was located.
4. You can then soak the whole drain assembly in WD40 , or similar and hopefully you can salvage it , then put it back in place & seal it in position. Either seal a new pin in the original drilled hole , or seal that hole & drill a fresh one.
5. Keep drain plug lubricated & go sailing.
1. Tap the small pin down through the outer flange of the drain plug ( it will fall down into the hull , probably never to be seen again )
2. With a suitable screwdriver try turning the seized drain bolt , if the drain assembly rotates , then gently prise it up from the deck. If it doesn't budge , slip a razor blade all around between the flange & the deck , then gently try turning & prising again.
3. You should be able to remove the whole drain assembly , leaving a clean hole , plus the smaller hole where the pin was located.
4. You can then soak the whole drain assembly in WD40 , or similar and hopefully you can salvage it , then put it back in place & seal it in position. Either seal a new pin in the original drilled hole , or seal that hole & drill a fresh one.
5. Keep drain plug lubricated & go sailing.