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Do I need a new bailer?

Kristie E

Hi all,
I’m nearing the end of my fiberglass patching (ugly but floats?) and want to go out on the lake.

This bailer had sand underneath and I removed as much as I could find, then tightened up to this. I had tried to remove it completely, but I gave up when that seemed wrong. It doesn’t look good to me. I’ve read about using silicone and marine sealant. Mine doesn’t sit flush. Thoughts?

Obviously, if I’m tackling fiberglass, the bailer shouldn’t daunt me, but it does. Especially since it’s a $65 replacement and I’m $200 into the fiberglass.

Anyone with thoughts on this? Thanks so much. I’ll post my fiberglass learning curve when I’m done with that. I think…


beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
You should be able to remove it completely to clean things up. When putting it back on, you can either use an o ring on the outside of the hull, but that causes the bailer to stick out a bit as it does now. Or skip the o-ring and run silicone around the bailer to plug that gap between boat and bailer (that works on plastic bailers, not sure about the old metal ones like you have.)

Kristie E

Thank you all so much. I’ve been out there trying to remove it-no can do, and I’ll be darned if it’ll keep me from getting this thing in the water. The ball is missing, you’re right. I’m super glad to know I can sail without it. I would’ve guessed not.

So I cleaned it up underneath and I’ll run a bead of silicone around it, as it’s now a bit loose. I’ll hack it off and replace it someday. I like that: when and if.

thanks to you all. So helpful to know there are ppl who know what to do. And care!!!!
Many smiles.
I also have an older bailer with a missing ball. I see Sunfish direct sells packs of 5 replacement balls and washers, but it seems a bit excessive…anyone know where a replacement ball may be found more reasonably (maybe one ball)?
I also checked intensity sails, but they apparently don’t carry this part - just a total replacement bailer.


Well-Known Member
There are dozens of discussions on the metal bailer. Search De(space)Persia at the magnifier icon (upper right corner).

My guess? Sunfish engineers decided the O-ring extends the bailer enough to act like a rubber shock absorber. (Should the Sunfish escape one's grasp).

Removal is a game of patience--versus spending $50 every so often for a new plastic bailer :rolleyes:.

Anti-corrosive sprays are available at auto parts stores, about $8.

Dowse with spray inside and out, tap with a hammer--rinse, repeat. The interior nut is 1- 1/2" socket--same as a water heater element socket, about $8. The drain exposed on the outside can be held from turning with a tool such as a large screwdriver, or small crowbar. ($1 at Dollar Tree stores). If your helper breaks the metal bailer, save all the parts! :eek:

Between the spray and tools, you're already halfway to a new bailer, and we haven't mentioned the De Persia's effectiveness yet! :confused: