Delaminated Deck and Hull...

#21
Hehe, nothing against fixing up an old Laser, have done it myself. There is an old 26xxx boat at our club we call Frankenlaser. I must post a pic of it here one day as you would not believe what you see. There are ports cut everywhere, there are even bungholes in the deck (!?) and I'm sure its held together by nothing other than silicone. The foils look like they were washed up on a rocky coast. Yet this boat is always at the front of our fleet. Old Lasers never die.

I do race a Laser, but for fun I sail my 16' GIS (Goat Island Skiff, see my avatar). The Laser is much too slow and too much hard work to be serious fun.;)
 
#22
oztayls,

I just noticed you're an Aussie.
I should have realized it earlier by your responses. <grin>

Seriously, I do hope people will acknowledge that most fiberglass boats can be made "serviceable". It depends on the needs and desires of the individual. I enjoyed the work I did on my Laser. It taught me many things and it is fun to sail. Will I sail competitively? Maybe after I loose 60+ lbs.

That is my only point in trying to respond to Granitize's original post.
I notice that he is Canadian. That means he has even more time to work on his boat before the snow melts...

John
Canadians must endure 3 months of bad sledding. I'm a reformed New Englander. We can sail year round down here in South Australia. I wear a 3 mm wetsuit in the winter because I still think I'm frostbiting not because I need it.
 
Thread starter #23
Ahhhhh to have longer on the water. Still below freezing here most days.... And a snow storm forecast for the w/e. Sigh...... :)

So... I opened up an inspection port and took some pics. There is still some water in the hull!

The mast step and insides don't look too bad to me. Any comments?

Pics here. More to com as I open up more holes.

https://plus.google.com/photos/112678407658147040793/albums/5863120400793580033?banner=pwa

1. Do I need to remove the base of the mast step before patching it? My guess is yes ...so I can see the actual condition.

There is also discoloration and wet foam at the inspection port I cut from a small hole at the top of the mast step.

As you can see there are a couple of poor attempt as repair on the deck and the hull is poorly painted... I really feel like a chump.

2. where you can see the split deck on the port seat I expect a lot of water damage. It is pretty soft. Is it possible to cut put a 2x3 piece of the deck and make it structurally sound.

3. I expect I will be replacing the all plywood. :)

4. For fun and learning only.. I like fixing stuff.
 
#24
Ahhhhh to have longer on the water. Still below freezing here most days.... And a snow storm forecast for the w/e. Sigh...... :)

So... I opened up an inspection port and took some pics. There is still some water in the hull!

The mast step and insides don't look too bad to me. Any comments?

Pics here. More to com as I open up more holes.

https://plus.google.com/photos/112678407658147040793/albums/5863120400793580033?banner=pwa

1. Do I need to remove the base of the mast step before patching it? My guess is yes ...so I can see the actual condition.

There is also discoloration and wet foam at the inspection port I cut from a small hole at the top of the mast step.

As you can see there are a couple of poor attempt as repair on the deck and the hull is poorly painted... I really feel like a chump.

2. where you can see the split deck on the port seat I expect a lot of water damage. It is pretty soft. Is it possible to cut put a 2x3 piece of the deck and make it structurally sound.

3. I expect I will be replacing the all plywood. :)

4. For fun and learning only.. I like fixing stuff.

My Laser looked much worse when I started.

Any part that is soaked with water needs to be dried out. A good way is to put a fan inside to circulate warm dry air. It will take a couple of weeks depending on how much water has been absorbed.

Probe the areas where the hull and deck sections come together. Under the cockpit is plywood. In mine, it was totally soaked and I was in a hurry. So I replaced the plywood.

The mast step and the cockpit drain are the two other places to focus on. There should be no "give" at either location. If there is, I would separate the hull and deck. Repair the problem parts from the inside. Then epoxy the two sections back together. The boat will be much stiffer.

John
 
#25
Mast step isn't a bad fix... I know plenty who have done it.
Fixing a soft hull and deck, not so much.
You'll end up adding so much weight it won't be competitive
 
#26
Mast step isn't a bad fix... I know plenty who have done it.
Fixing a soft hull and deck, not so much.
You'll end up adding so much weight it won't be competitive
It is important to understand the original poster did NOT specify he wanted to be a competitive racer - simply wants to make an enjoyable use of this Laser he already purchased.

When (or IF) he decides to be seriously competitive, he can invest in a better boat. But in the meantime, he has a reasonable project boat that is very sailable and will provide lots of fun both on the water and in the workshop.
 
#27
sorry if you have seen this reply on the other thread but it really is an easy repair and mast steps are piss easy I can do some of those without an inspection port now :) and there is loads of information on how to repair them on here.
your crack in the side deck could do with the section cutting open and a piece of glass mat sliding in I did one on Thursday as a result of a customer ripping the gunwale off his boat and tore up the deck LOL
Once you have mastered the technique you can charge about £60/m² just for labour ;) it's really quite simple basically you need epoxy a syringe, a drill, some gym weights, masking tape, hardboard, plenty of wipes, a heater, a Dremel or similar rotary tool gel coat and acetone and LDPE sheet plastic or bag.
All you need to do is drill lots of holes about every 6 inches just through the gel coat then mask off around the hole inject the epoxy until it comes out of the nearby holes this bonds it back together then wipe away the excess and place the LDPE over the area then the piece of hardboard and then the gym weights then put the heater on it for about 15-20 minuets (don't melt your boat) then leave it to set for another hour or two at this point you should be able to remove the weights and the hardboard and then the LDPE should just peel away from the epoxy you then repeat the process in the next area and just carry on working your way around the affected area.
Then grind back the over spill of epoxy (take some modelling clay - or silicone smear it on to a good section of the deck to get the grip pattern then fill the top of the hole where you injected the epoxy with gel coat and push the modelling clay or dried silicone over the top of the wet gel coat to give it texture warm the area for about 5-10 minuets leave the mould on until it is almost dry). (and for hull and smooth surfaces just fill the gel coat in smooth (never use selotape it traps air in)) and there you have it the two sections bonded back together and finished back with the deck grip pattern and that's what they do in the boat repair shops when you send it in or rather that's what we do where I work but we have never attempted a repair that large as it would be cheaper for the customer to get a new hull but for DIY purposes it would be economical to do this as you are not going to charge yourself labour :rolleyes: if I have missed anything feel free to message me :)
 
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