Cunfused about the rigging of my new (used) Fish

Fish, kln50,

There are 4 basic setups with the hook removed (with minor variations). Three of them have cleats. The top of the cockpit lip is the most common place to mount the block/fairlead. They are (in no particular order)

1. The Harken Hexratchet (or similar) 019 (2.25" seems to be most popular) or 009 (3") without cleats (not pictured).
2. The Harken Hexratchet 019 swivle mounted with Cam Cleat.
3. The Harken Hexratchet 019 with outboard Clam Cleats (cleats mounted as far forward and out to the sides as far as the cockpit underside will allow). This can be painfull to your bottom if not carefull :).

4. Fairlead, swivle mounted with Cam Cleat.

I use just the Harken Hexratchet 019, no cleats, (not pictured) keeping the mainsheet in my hands at all times (a good idea with any option). The center mounted Cam Cleats can be hard to release when hiked out or engage accidently. To prevent the Cam Cleats from engaging accidentaly (and causing a capsize), some people turn the Cam cleat to the front and run the main sheet "backwards" thru the fairlead or block (turn the Hexratchet around to use the ratchet feature). To still use the Cam Cleat but reduce the chance of cleating accidently, some bend the cleat mounting plate down (as shown in the picture).


with the inspection ports and the new mainsheet block and cleats, I'll have plenty to do this winter! thanks for all the great pics.

It will take longer to aquire the blocks, ports, cleats, fasteners, sealants and tools together than it will to install them. I would install the block (suggest the Harken 019, about 15 minutes to install) first and sail with out cleats to see if you really need them. I did sail the "Around Shelter Island " race this summer and it took about 5-1/2 hours and I did not need cleats during the race. Two ports should take less than an hour (unless you have help, then it will take longer:rolleyes: ) .