Cracking Rudder

california_dude

california_dude

Member
Hi fellow Sunfish sailers,

I have been sailing for about a year and, while beaching or pulling my rudder up with a tiller, I cracked it. I got pretty upset with that, so I started to think how I could prevent this in the future. Here is what I came up with. I replaced the washers from the bolt on which the rudder pivots with the washers that have a hook on one side. By doing this, the springs are catching the hooks as they pass through the pivoting point of the rudder. This reduces the load of the spring and minimizes the impact of dual-mounting tiller brackets on the main bracket of the rudder. Now, my question is: is this add-on in a realm of being legal?
My description can be quite confusing, so I'm attaching the photos, so you guys can see what I am talking about.

I will appreciate all comments and suggestions.
 

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I'm not sure about the brackets being legal but you did some nice work on them! Looks like they are performing perfectly with the spring. Are they resolving your issue?
 
California Dude, nice work and pretty interesting engineering. Does your fish steer differently with the few inches you have lost in rudder depth in the water? I would wonder when you are fully hiked out and almost need additional rudder length. I like your design idea to help reduce the impact and loading of the original spring placement.
 
Hi guys,

Thanks for the lightning fast replies.
The little brackets work like a charm, and, yes - they solved my problem.
In fact, there is an added bonus to this design - I don't have to push that hard to get the rudder to the down position. There is no loss in the rudder depth in the water. Positioning of the rudder is exactly the same as original. The only thing that has changed is the reduction in the up-force of the springs. The load of the spring downwards also stayed as original.
 
california_dude

The rule states

3.3.2 The rudder may be reinforced with metal rods, screws or bolts to prevent splitting. Holes in the rudder and the rudder head may be strengthened with bushings. Bolts and nuts may be changed. Washers may be added. Plastic pads may be added to the rudder head to reduce play.

My thoughts if at check in they say your bent pieces are washers your good to go.
Other thought won't they cause some damage in a board bag ( to the dagger board)
 
It's my guess you've only eliminated a very small part of the cause of a cracking rudder. The main reason being the way the holes line up along the grain lines. After reinforcing my rudder with internal dowel pegs, I've totally eliminated the cracking problem. I predict you will continue to have a cracking problem, just give it a little more time!
 
Could rudder cracking be caused, or be contributed to, by using the tiller to move it up or down???

Fred
 
Can someone point me in the direction of how to reinforce the rudder blade w / dowels or steel rods?

Thanks in advance, Chris
 
Search some of the postings by Supercub :) on this subject.

He has helped me through just this same project this winter. I will attach some older e-mails of his to me. His instructions work , very detailed. If you have questions, drop him an e-mail, he is very helpful. I have some of my project photos too, I will post them later on.

PS: I drilled without a press as well. Do practice on scrap wood first. It took me a couple of times to come out in the center of a pine 1x6. I then continued for a half a dozen more holes and got the feel of keeping centered. I then slowly went into my mahogany rudder with confidence.

:D Special thanks to SuperCub. A great DIY resource and sailor:) .
 

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I think you'd be far better off to search some of my previous postings. !st you need to get yourself a goog quality doweling jig. To suggest drilling the hole freehand is nuts! The doweling jig will have 2 aluminum jaws with a black adjusting screw in the middle. With my method you'll be using a 3/8 drill bit. When you get the jig, contact me and I'll continue to direct you. Need reassurance? Suggest you contact snfish60, he's purchased some of my reinforced rudders. Nuff said?

Al Courtines [email protected] 413 348-1211 cell woodshop teacher
 
Al's on the money its nuts to freehand the holes. Back to my favorite cheap tool goto. Harbor Freight has a cheap doweling jig.
Central Forge 3-IN-1 ALUMINUM DOWEL JIG $4.99
Not pretty but far better than a warped blade.
 
Thanks John. At least someone out there knows which end is up. Sorry I haven't called you yet regarding Thailand info. I finally got lead to an appropriate site. I still have your number and will be calling soon!

Regards,

Al
 
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