Converting a trailer for 2 fish?

Thread starter #1
So, I went to buy a Sunfish...

.and the guy had several nice fish to choose from. I got a little too excited and came home with a matching pair!

So, now I need to figure out how to convert my trailer to carry two fish. Looking for feedback for trailer rack suggestions. Anyone tried these products...

Other easy DIY suggestions?

Thanks for the help!


Well-Known Member
I went to a metal shop and had a steel rack made that was made so I could take it apart. It cost me $400 all welded and primed and bolts for the assembly. This was up in New England. There is also another thread here that showed pictures of various double and triple trailers for Sunfish posted by signal charlie (Kent Lewis).
Do you need to remove them separately? I don't know that my method is ideal, but I've gotten into the habit of just stacking them on top of each other. For a while, I was using a frame/box made out of 2x pine boards with padding like this picture:

lately, though, I put my Sunfish on the bottom, position a couple of the fat pool noodles (3" diameter?) as required, and then just put my Minifish upside down on the pool noodles. I fiddle with the position of the upper boat to make sure there aren't any fiberglass parts touching the lower boat, and the mainsheet blocks, etc aren't getting all bent over. I then strap it all down and get on the road!

Thread starter #4
That's how i got them home, but I'm worried trailering like that on a regular basis will cause too much stress on the bottom boat. I went out of my way to find good stiff boats that don't oil can. Ideally I'd like to keep them in good shape.
Thread starter #6
Thanks for the rack ideas. I just ordered some 1.5" Aluminum tubing cut to the right lengths for about $200. I'm going to try to rivet it together with monel rivets and U-bolt it to my trailer. If I can't get it sturdy enough with the rivets, I'll take it to a welder. Will post pics of the results. Wish me luck.
Thread starter #9
That is very nice! I'm jealous...
Thanks! Honestly it wasn't that hard to build. I did the whole thing in one day. I ordered the metal pre-cut and had it delivered UPS. I did trim a few of the cross braces with an angle grinder, but really didn't have to. I used a big'ol rivet tool from Northern Tool and an old-school corded drill to put it all together. The only hiccup was burning through 4 drill bits. (Although I killed one of them by dropping the drill. ) - Total cost$220 for aluminum parts including shipping, $35 for rivets, $20 for drill bits, $20 for U bolts, $3 for pool noodles. All in for just under $300. I'll probably order some nice rack pads to replace the noodles in the future.

If you have a trailer with more support in the front, (mine had none) you could probably reduce the number of cross braces and save some on materials.
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Resurrecting an old thread. I really like the double stack and need it now with being a two boat family :) I need to figure our if I can modify mine to hold the double stack.


Well-Known Member
Welded or riveted, aluminum is poorly suited to the flexing it would receive as a rack.

While I personally don't have a need for such double-trailers, I'd suggest a look—from the side—as someone else drives the trailer slowly over a speed bump. :oops:

Resurrecting an old thread. I really like the double stack and need it now with being a two boat family :) I need to figure our if I can modify mine to hold the double stack.
I did the pool noodle method for a while and it works okay. but last summer, I did my major trailer upgrade to carry 2 boats, plus a bunch of extra gear and storage as well.

more details here: Double Sunfish Trailer

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Some notes to add:
1) My boat trailer guy wouldn't sell me aluminum guides, he insisted on steel, said the aluminum wasn't strong enough. Obviously there are ways to brace aluminum to make it strong, but not with the design I came up with.

2) Hull down or hull up? Our buddy Howie who worked at Alcort 1960-1978, then spent 10 years repairing damaged Alcorts, said the important part was to put support under where there is structure inside. So under the mast step, daggerboard trunk and cockpit area. We like bunks to run fore and aft under the edges of the cockpits or sideways around the same area. We pad bunks with pool noodles. We also like heavier trailers that don't bounce a lot unloaded, they ride smooth with a couple of Sunfish on them. Some folks prefer to keep the trailers as light as possible so they can move them around the yard, there is a happy medium somewhere. Keep in mind we primarily use our trailers for picking, not for storage or local trips.

Double trailer loaded.jpg

Double trailer.jpg

3) Check out our blog post on trailers, we wandered through the parking lot of the Sunfish Masters a few years back checking out how they like to carry their boats.


Well-Known Member
Don’t tell that to Dynamic or Seitech! I don’t think I’d rivet mine, but aluminum is widely used in small boat trailer racks.
Due to aluminum's poor resistance to flex at joints, riveting or welding aluminum would start cracking right away. If I were to stack nearly 500 ponds of trailered Sunfish on aluminum racks, I'd secure the corners with polycarbonate clamps, as Seitech has.

But even polycarbonate has troubles:
"The polycarbonate molded parts that hold the Seitech dolly together are not up to the task for supporting the boat over the road. The polycarbonate "elbow/joining" parts get cracked and break."
New dolly trailer for Laser and Sunfish
I just ordered a Trailex SUT220 from Castle Craft. It is very light weight and can be used as a dolly. It should make things a lot easier when I go out. It is a one boat only trailer though.