"Compass Spider"

Dutchlaser

New Member
Hi,

I'm new to this forum, I hope I'll find something to help me with the following problem: Does anyone have the measures of the so called "compass spider" (The plate on which the compass should be placed with the new blocks of the XD system)
If you know the sizes could you please tell me?or could you show me the place where it had been posted?

Thnx

Timo
 
Hi Timo,
on the quick way, here are the numbers of my selfmade spider:

max lenght over all 54,3 cm
min lenght in the mid 53,3 cm**
**(This comes from a part of a circle that is cutted out at the front of the plate to allow the mast to be made into the maststep.)

min distance between the original builder supplied basic plates 38,6 cm*
* (important advice for this distance: better see the measuremant diagrams at the rules-chapter at the ILCA-Homepage http://www.laserinternational.org and test it while/aft cutting out)

breadth of the plate: over all 17 cm

thickness of the plate: 4mm

min distance fom the end that is at the centerboard to the beginning of the
basic-plate for the curry-cleats: 1,6 cm

distance fom the end that is at the centerboard to the beginning of the rectangle base Silva:19.1 cm

material: transparent fibreglassplate from the home-depot (f.e. "Bauhaus"/"Praktiker")

Sorry, I have no photo in the moment. I make one at the next weekend and add it here.

Tot siens/ Ciao
LooserLu
 
Hi,

Really thanks for the size of the compass spider. Hope I'll be finished making it before this weekend!

Thnx, Tot ziens
Timo
 

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  • SelfmadeSilva103RSpider.jpg
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That is a great looking spider - you did a very good job building it.

But I have a question - why use a spider instead of just screwing the compass to the deck? I know the rules do not allow a hole in the deck for the compass, but mounting screws are legal. Opinions?

Thanks,
 
Merrily said:
How does this compass spider attach to the deck?

Merrily

I think the spiders are typically held down by the tight fit over the outhaul/cunningham block and cleat fittings. The lines running above the spider and through the compass bracket prevent the unit from being lost if it were to pop free. I would also like to know if its illegal to simply screw the 103R mounting rails to the deck, or alternatively, mount an old-style 103R spider underneath the new style fittings (as I have an old-style spider). Either of these mods would offer no performance advantage.

BP
 
bplaxton said:
I think the spiders are typically held down by the tight fit over the outhaul/cunningham block and cleat fittings. The lines running above the spider and through the compass bracket prevent the unit from being lost if it were to pop free. I would also like to know if its illegal to simply screw the 103R mounting rails to the deck, or alternatively, mount an old-style 103R spider underneath the new style fittings (as I have an old-style spider). Either of these mods would offer no performance advantage.

BP
Don't know the answer to your questions, but have another. Where can I buy the slides to attach the compass to the spider? I got a used compass with a boat that I bought, but there weren't any slides included.

Merrily
 
Hi,

I modified an old spider for the new deck gear. it was easy. I just cut the hole for the blocks/plate a bit bigger, then cut the (old) spider where it bumps into the cleat base. You end up with a notch by the front on the cleat base that holds it fine. I lifted my plastimo 3/4 of an inch by adding a food container, glued in place with 5200, and thru bolted to the spider.

Yes, the lines are the ultimate hold down, if turtled.

Yes, it's legal to just screw it down. The spiders are better if you want to remove it, or move from boat to boat.

www.layline.com has a cool spider for new stuff, if you don't have an old one to modify. Note how they "X' the lines to use the old hole in the compass.

I didn't want to put the old spider under the cleat base, as I thought the air space might weaken the plate, or cause leaks, plus this was so easy.

Al Russell 182797
 
vtgent49 said:
Hi,

I modified an old spider for the new deck gear. it was easy. I just cut the hole for the blocks/plate a bit bigger, then cut the (old) spider where it bumps into the cleat base. You end up with a notch by the front on the cleat base that holds it fine. I lifted my plastimo 3/4 of an inch by adding a food container, glued in place with 5200, and thru bolted to the spider.

Yes, the lines are the ultimate hold down, if turtled.

Yes, it's legal to just screw it down. The spiders are better if you want to remove it, or move from boat to boat.

www.layline.com has a cool spider for new stuff, if you don't have an old one to modify. Note how they "X' the lines to use the old hole in the compass.

I didn't want to put the old spider under the cleat base, as I thought the air space might weaken the plate, or cause leaks, plus this was so easy.

Al Russell 182797


thanks Al very helpful post

BP
 
vtgent49 said:
Hi,

glued in place with 5200, and thru bolted to the spider.

Al Russell 182797
Yikes! Ever since I glued on rubrail with that permanent 5200, I'm wary. I don't want to glue the compass down because I want to move it between two boats. The Laser spider wouldn't fit on my Europe very well. Gluing sounds like an OK solution if you didn't want to use your compass on another boat, though. Anybody got any notion about where to buy the slides? The ever helpful guys at APS said the part are no longer available. How can this be? Doesn't anyone else ever lose parts?

Merrily
 
Merrily said:
Yikes! Ever since I glued on rubrail with that permanent 5200, I'm wary. I don't want to glue the compass down because I want to move it between two boats. The Laser spider wouldn't fit on my Europe very well. Gluing sounds like an OK solution if you didn't want to use your compass on another boat, though. Anybody got any notion about where to buy the slides? The ever helpful guys at APS said the part are no longer available. How can this be? Doesn't anyone else ever lose parts?

Merrily


Maybe try contacting Brunton (Nexus) for the replacement hold-down rails. They come with the compass, not the spider. If you can't find any I suggest you drill holes in the plate attached to the compass and screw that to your spider, or your boat deck. That way it will still be easy to switch the compass between boats. BTW I used velcro strips with my modified old-style spider and I'm very happy with the results.

BP
 
bplaxton said:
Maybe try contacting Brunton (Nexus) for the replacement hold-down rails. They come with the compass, not the spider. If you can't find any I suggest you drill holes in the plate attached to the compass and screw that to your spider, or your boat deck. That way it will still be easy to switch the compass between boats. BTW I used velcro strips with my modified old-style spider and I'm very happy with the results.

BP
Thanks for the ideas. I've just sent a message inquiring about the slides to Brunton. My compass is a Brunton. I have the original box, just no slides.

Merrily
 
I just received the like new Plastimo Mini-B compass I bought for a sweet price (45 US bucks) frim an Ebay seller and am wondering if the spider for that LooserLu specs here can also be used for the Plastimo Mini-B. I don't want to screw-mount it directly to the deck, and I don't mind making a home-made or modifying an existing spider. The base diameter of the Plastimo Mini-B is 11 cm/4.25". Would I need the 17 cm width LooserLu recs in his drawing? Has anybody else tried to make a spider for the Plastimo Mini-B? It has a hole at each end of the binacle base into which the compass mounts and is held down by a locking collar, but the lines won't hold it down as the hole is open on the bottom (semi-circular is the best way to describe it.)
 
Hi,

I have a plastimo with the new rigging. I used an old style spider, usually available cheap due to it's supposed obsolescence.

It's really easy to fit the old style spider to the new style cleats. Just cut the turning block opening a bit bigger with a keyhole saw or dremel. Then cut the Cleat end to fit just the forward edge of the harken cleat base. It won't reach around the cleat base, but it doesn't need to, as the forward metal line guides, and the lines hold it down.

I bolted the plastimo to the spider using one of the old bolt holes, and a new one cut on the opposite side. ( the 2 other existing holes would rub on the line/bolts on mine).

Then I raised the compass 1"+ by putting a similar diameter food container under it, something like a tupperware bowl. The bolts go thru this and the spider. This raises it enough to allow me to cut slots so the lines don't touch. I tried glueing it, the tupperware, but nothing holds to the spider material, not 5200, nor silicone. So now it's just taped in place, plus thru-bolted.

You might try skipping this, just by "x"ing the lines thru the existing slot, letting them grind their way a bit to reduce friction. I've never tried this, but it may be OK, as the new ratio's are way more than anyone needs.

I've changed my rigging, so it all stays on the boat along with the boom. That saves rigging time, and feeding the lines thru the compass slots, and retying the braided handles, etc. I use clips to unhook the outhaul, and the c-ham. Kind of a compromise, but I think time on the water matters most.

I don't have a pic, as the boat is at my Club. BTW, the lubber line indicators go foreward, so you look thru the liquid, which magnifies the numbers.

Al Russell 182797
 

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