My Sunfish hull has several leaking coaming rivet holes. Two or three holes are damaged and enlarged and appear too large for simple re-riveting. I have installed a six inch inspection port between the coaming and centerboard trunk. Structural/flotation foam covers most of them on the inside of the hull. Does anyone have any advice about how to reattach the coaming? Thanks.
Coaming hull leaks
- Thread starter Dahveed
- Start date
Is the coaming off? Can you share photos?
The coaming is off. Two of the ragged holes are visible in the picture. The worst one indicated by the drill bit. Thanks for taking a look.
David
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Charles Howard
Well-Known Member
I would send the holes to get a good clean edge and clean with acetone. Mix epoxy and fiberglass and fill the hole.. Sand it flat, redrill andl reattach
norcalsail
Well-Known Member
What kind of fasteners would you use? I have this problem with the Old Fish in Wisconsin. The front middle (apex) of the coaming was missing a screw. Should I get pop rivets? This reminds me that I need to send some repair items there before I go. This picture doesn't show too much but I think someone put some kind of goop along the back edge. There is a big chip on the underside of the area where the deck meets the hull too. Maybe some Marine Tex there. I'll have a couple of weeks this summer so I may get some work done on both boats. I am hoping to get my niece and nephew out on the water and teach them to sail.
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mixmkr
Well-Known Member
I agree.. you might also consider carefully taking a countersink bit and slightly enlarging the hole and the edges for a better grip on the new material... basically an inverted "cone shaped" depression...careful NOT to go thru the thin deck. Some 3M 4200 has enough adhesion....and not as much as 5200, and might be a good choice to help hold things, if just using a simple, self tapping screw. Aluminum rivets could be a choice too.....or better yet, thru bolting what you can reach thru the inspection port.
Thanks for the photo Dahveed. What we would do for that is put a couple of small squares of 6 oz fiberglass cloth over those holes and redrill new holes for the rivets. We put a glob of marine sealant over the holes before we put the rivet in, the factory did that sometimes, but not always, so it is not necessary. You might get small leaks, probably not even enough to make it out of the drain plug. 3M 4200 is suitable, 3M 5200 is overkill, but some folks roll that way.
These West System fiberglass repair kits are a good deal if you don't already have the supplies.
On other boats we have seen where folks seal all around the bottom of the coaming, once again the factory did not do that.
We recommend that you buy the closed end aluminum rivets from a Laser Performance dealer, honestly I'd buy 2 bags in case one of them doesn't set right, you'll have spares. Or you can get the specs from our video below. Keep in mind we bought a big bag.
We'd love to see photos of your boat!
These West System fiberglass repair kits are a good deal if you don't already have the supplies.
On other boats we have seen where folks seal all around the bottom of the coaming, once again the factory did not do that.
We recommend that you buy the closed end aluminum rivets from a Laser Performance dealer, honestly I'd buy 2 bags in case one of them doesn't set right, you'll have spares. Or you can get the specs from our video below. Keep in mind we bought a big bag.
We'd love to see photos of your boat!
Norcalsail
If your boat has machine screws, then use new 10-32 x 3/4 inch oval head, countersunk stainless steel machine screws. Assuming the rivet nut in the deck is still intact.
Sunfish Coaming Rivnuts or Rivets?
The goop along the back edge is probably an owner added strip of marine sealant. News Flash, you're going to get wet out there, skip the extra sealant
We used to be the Marine Tex Kings, make sure to get white.
Post pics
If your boat has machine screws, then use new 10-32 x 3/4 inch oval head, countersunk stainless steel machine screws. Assuming the rivet nut in the deck is still intact.
Sunfish Coaming Rivnuts or Rivets?
The goop along the back edge is probably an owner added strip of marine sealant. News Flash, you're going to get wet out there, skip the extra sealant
We used to be the Marine Tex Kings, make sure to get white.
Post pics
Why not add a Deluxe Coaming like ZIP has? Attach it with 3M5200 and Flextape.
beldar boathead
Married to Primat Boathead
That looks great as long as you don’t intend to do any hiking!
mixmkr
Well-Known Member
Remember you can use tape to keep resin off areas not intended ...such as the non skid and areas not covered by the splash coaming, when re-attached. Just pull it before things cure. If you have glass strands hanging over, you'll need to be aware of that during repairs or cut them with a sharp razor when pulling the tape.
Good suggestion about using tape, my photo shows why! A few minutes ago I realised most of the holes are too large for a 3/16 pop rivet unless I can use a washer. The foam under the deck is in the way of positioning washers or lock nuts for that matter.
SHOULD I WORRY ABOUT CUTTING INTO THE FOAM TO GET TO THE INTERIOR SIDES OF THE HOLES?
SHOULD I WORRY ABOUT CUTTING INTO THE FOAM TO GET TO THE INTERIOR SIDES OF THE HOLES?
I'm confused. Did you make the holes bigger?
Anyway, how are they too large for a rivet if there is a piece of solid fiberglass over the old hole? You will be drilling new holes.
You don't need to cut into the foam, and you don't need washers or lock nuts. You need factory replacement part Sunfish rivets from Laser Performance or a parts dealer.
Anyway, how are they too large for a rivet if there is a piece of solid fiberglass over the old hole? You will be drilling new holes.
You don't need to cut into the foam, and you don't need washers or lock nuts. You need factory replacement part Sunfish rivets from Laser Performance or a parts dealer.
Charles Howard
Well-Known Member
Daveed how old is that boat? Older boats has screws newer used rivets.
I didn't make the holes bigger. Some were just less obviously bigger from the beginning. I thought regular hardware store "pop" rivets would work but it looks like they won't. My plan now is to use 3/16 in x 1/2 in triple grip aluminum rivet (comes with neoprene washer on the top side.....this type rivet "explodes" or expands umbrella-like....for a wider grip surface with less pull through supossedly....we 'll see....
Charles, my boat was made in 1994.
Signal Charlie, Thanks....I looked at the rivets on the Laser Performance site but didn't see much info about them. I think a previous owner enlarged some of the coaming mounting holes beyond original specs and it may have been leaking ever since.. I appreciate being able to disxuss Sunfish stuff with everyone....David
Signal Charlie, Thanks....I looked at the rivets on the Laser Performance site but didn't see much info about them. I think a previous owner enlarged some of the coaming mounting holes beyond original specs and it may have been leaking ever since.. I appreciate being able to disxuss Sunfish stuff with everyone....David
Breeze Bender
Breeze Bender
Hi David,
I’ve been through just what you’re doing. This link should give you some answers, though you may have to read a bit before I get to the splashguard issue!
sailingforums.com
I’ve been through just what you’re doing. This link should give you some answers, though you may have to read a bit before I get to the splashguard issue!
Power Washer damage
I picked up this ‘73 Sunfish and it’s in pretty good shape- minor repairs that I can do (will post pics) but the previous owner wanted to clean it up before selling it and he used a power washer- which took paint right off the deck- mostly between the coaming and the front/side of the cockpit...
sailingforums.com