Clew Sleeve Not Sliding

It's idiot proof, huh?

well...I can use it. Do we need to find another to prove the case? ;)

But we digress. The poster wanted to know how to get his metal strap to slide. You may also want to lightly steel wool your boom and also make sure your lines are clean. Dirty lines are stiff and they stick. Then there's the lubrication already mentioned.


The thing is, I thought the amazing new sleeve was the end to all worries. No sticking, no messing about, just plop it on and done. Was it not advertised as the be all solution?

mawill said:
Ross - I don't get it Ross - you seem so full of contradictions.

The mark of true genius.

On the one hand you pontificate about saving money

Other people's money. The man cares about other peoples money. He is truely Selfless. :cool:

and on the other, you seem to have spent about 60 dollars on clew tie downs (as you say, you have never had a problem with the SEA, the Rooster or the Clew Sleeve). That is alot of hardware for a 8 dollar piece of line for a guy concerned about saving money.

That's his money. Product research, finding the final 0.00005678 of a knot. An inspiration to us all. :D


In an earlier thread about this exact same topic, you mention that 1/4 inch won't make a difference, and then in this thread, you imply that the 'peace of mind' is worth 45 dollars?

Context is everything. He's had time to rethink. :p

I would guess that 1/4" of slack along the leech would be about 2" of vang line coming out of a 12:1 system. Maybe less.

Please, if you are going to toss out opinions and advice with such amazing frequency and run for some Class office (unless that is some elaborate joke), at least be consistent in your views and advice - otherwise, you come across as simply being a know it all typing to hear the sound of your own voice.

Sounds like the perfect political candidate. Vote Ross for NA boss!
 
I think I was being sarcastic and agreeing with you. It was amazing to me that someone could argue that personal preference is a beautiful thing in this context. To me, that sentiment goes against the whole essence of one-design sailing.

One means one.

now what about the fact that we have Hyde and North sails? and vanguard boats and spars, and Aussie and Euro boats and spars?

how about everything built in one place? and it has to be shipped all over?





That's his money. Product research, finding the final 0.00005678 of a knot. An inspiration to us all. :D

exactly, I try out everything to see what's best
 
Hate to break it to you , but living off Mum and Dad is not really a big secret - it was pretty obvious. BUt for someone who has not cut the apron strings yet you sure like to tell others to get a job and to save money!

"yep, basically" - what is that supposed to mean? I know I said it made no difference, but I changed my mind and now I feel all at peace with my 45 dollar soup can on the end of my boom! Nice.

Filter ON.
 
Glad I could help you matt

and I do live at home, and the parents help, but they only pay for half of my sailing
 
Chainsaw - I do the same as you, with one modification - if it is really honking and you're concerned about taking a grommet to the noggin, then I actually connect up the outhaul first, then put the boom in the goose neck. Then sinch up the outhaul. Gives me more control of the sail.
I'm kinda locked out of this option because I set up my maximum vang setting to lock. I can't get the vang on after the boom is on the pin or release the pin before taking off the vang.

The best I can do is start at the cunningham eyelet and work my way along the foot to the clew eyelet and then pull it tight, lift the boom and stick the hook in.
 
I'm kinda locked out of this option because I set up my maximum vang setting to lock. I can't get the vang on after the boom is on the pin or release the pin before taking off the vang.

The best I can do is start at the cunningham eyelet and work my way along the foot to the clew eyelet and then pull it tight, lift the boom and stick the hook in.


Don't get what "Set my max vang setting to lock means" - can you elaborate?

Thanks
Matt
 
Don't get what "Set my max vang setting to lock means" - can you elaborate?

Thanks
Matt

The bowline and hand loop I put in the vang control line won't go through the camcleat fairlead. It's set like that to avoid fufu's at the windward and wing mark and assist in creating a "no need to think" range of settings.
 
The bowline and hand loop I put in the vang control line won't go through the camcleat fairlead. It's set like that to avoid fufu's at the windward and wing mark and assist in creating a "no need to think" range of settings.
If you have put that bowline in a place where you can't put the vang on the boom after it's on the gooseneck, then you have your max vang set way too tight.
 
If you have put that bowline in a place where you can't put the vang on the boom after it's on the gooseneck, then you have your max vang set way too tight.
I can't get the vang on after the clew is tied. Mawill was recommending fixing the clew then putting the boom on the pin.
 
I can't get the vang on after the clew is tied. Mawill was recommending fixing the clew then putting the boom on the pin.

Yes, that's what I do. If you set the stopper knot in your vang line so that the end of the boom is 6 inches lower than it's natural place with the sail rigged but no vang (as recommended on another thread here) it's quite easy to put the boom on the vang pin after everything else including the clew tie-down or strap is rigged.
 
Yes, that's what I do. If you set the stopper knot in your vang line so that the end of the boom is 6 inches lower than it's natural place with the sail rigged but no vang (as recommended on another thread here) it's quite easy to put the boom on the vang pin after everything else including the clew tie-down or strap is rigged.

Have tried that, no way will that work. Mine is about 4" below "rest".

Can't imagine how yours will work at that setting and not mine.

6" below rest on my sail and the mast is bent excessively. 4" makes everything snug with mast bend just thinking about starting. 4" at rest is a good max setting for by the lee running, but more vang applied as soon as you come up onto a reach when s-curving in anything under 12knots. Once wind gets up to 15-18knots max vang setting is good for BTL and broad reaching.
 
I think you're right Chainsaw. 6" below rest was recommended in another thread here. But I'm sure the fast guys have a looser setting than that and 4" is probably a better choice.

Either way, 4" or 6", it's easy to clip the boom to the vang pin (with the clew rigged) if you just press down on the boom or apply a bit of sheet tension.
 
Hey Chainsaw,

OK - I get it. My vang is set a little bit looser than that though - but it is still possible. Out of necessity, I can not leave my vang on while I launch - the wind can be really shifty where I used to sail. So I would leave the dock without the vang. Then when I was out of the mooring field, I would go pretty much head to wind - so the boom was sitting about 6 inches off center. Then stand up in the cock pit with one foot in front of the DB. Then push down on the boom with one hand and slip the key in with the other. It took a bit of practice, but it is now just the way that I get going.

In anycase, if you're happy with your method, no need to mess with something that works.

Matt
 
Im not real happy with the velcro, maybe I am not threading it right. Pics/tricks anyone?

I've had the velcro come undone - and then purchased one of the Harken things which has not come undone (yet). Once the velcro comes undone it is difficult to check you had it all attached decently (because its undone at that point !!). I used silicon spray on the boom and have left the shock cord in haul as well (though others say this is not necessary).


Ian
 
Observed the problem Rock Steady refers to on his boat (mine seems OK). Somehow it seemed that the forward facing edge was binding on the boom like the old simple line used to do. His boom is not bent or particularly rough - May be that the sleeve was twisted somehow when the cotter pin was removed - or opened too far so its resting diameter is changed - or maybe the pin needs to be shorter somehow. For whatever reason the geometry has changed somehow.

Have noticed my sleeve sets up slightly differently with a Standard and Radial (I think because of clew grommet differences) but mine still glides and stays secure (even though the hook points further back with the Radial).

Would be good to get some comments from the designer - i.e would a shorter pin help keep the sleeve from possibly loading up on the front facing edge? Would a thinner pin let the hook align better (or reverse etc)? Is there variance in the actual boom OD on some boats? Are there differences in the hooks? If it binds does it mean the holes for the cotter pin are out of alignment (need enlarging and a fatter pin etc to lower the bearing surface of the hook?) Would simply reversing the sleeve fix the problem (keeping the hook to port of course)?

When it works it's really great and doesn't even need inhaul schock cord to release - but various people on this forum and at our club have had unexplained problems. The engineering dynamics of preventing 'tilt' and binding would be interesting to hear
 
Would be good to get some comments from the designer - i.e would a shorter pin help keep the sleeve from possibly loading up on the front facing edge? Would a thinner pin let the hook align better (or reverse etc)? Is there variance in the actual boom OD on some boats? Are there differences in the hooks? If it binds does it mean the holes for the cotter pin are out of alignment (need enlarging and a fatter pin etc to lower the bearing surface of the hook?) Would simply reversing the sleeve fix the problem (keeping the hook to port of course)?

When it works it's really great and doesn't even need inhaul schock cord to release - but various people on this forum and at our club have had unexplained problems. The engineering dynamics of preventing 'tilt' and binding would be interesting to hear

There have been discussions with the designer regarding this. You are correct that the fit of the sleeve on the boom is critical to it working well and my understanding is that it is important that the pin be the correct size. To quote: "The proper pin in the boom sleeve is 3/16" x 1/2"."

My fitting has this pin size and works perfectly. Well... it did until I loaned my boat to someone a few months ago and they liked it so much they convinced me to sell it to them since they could not yet easily get it in their country...
 
Dear ABZLaser,
In most cases of a sticky sleeve the problem is in the outhaul lines and
system. If you disconnect the sheets the sleeve should slide freely,if it is
still sticky you did something else wrong, maybe overbent he sleeve as
you pushed it on the boom at installation.
The sleeve does not stick as large numbers of sailors have found and all
sleeves are exactly identical.

JC
 
Dear ABZLaser,
The sleeve does not stick as large numbers of sailors have found and all
sleeves are exactly identical.

The sleeve DOES stick as large numbers of sailors have also found. I'm pretty sure I put mine on properly and my outhaul system is functioning properly yet mine still sticks even after lubricating. I've also found that sometimes I have to pull really hard to tighten the outhaul then the sleeve suddenly gives and I end up pulling on too tight, especially if I have lots of mainsheet tension on.

My guess is that the age of the boom is significant. Mine is quite old and has a white finish. Where the sleeve rides along the boom there is a grey discolouration in patches which indicates to me that the sleeve isn't fitting the boom in all the right places. I might try a light sanding as suggested earlier in the thread.

What I've found is that if I can reach the boom and give it a quick twist one way then the other the sleeve frees. Obviously, this means you have to let off the outhaul before you round the windward mark.

I'm persevering with the sleeve because of the ease with which you can get the sail on and off but if it starts to cost me places, its going.
 
I went out for a practice this weekend and found my outhaul sticking again.

I've been lubing the sleeve at the end of the boom like a madman.

Experimenting, I found the friction seemed to be at the turning blocks at the base of the mast and from the mast to the boom. I'm going to start adding those bad boys to my "mc lube" regimen.
 
you guys ever thought of cleaning the old mclube off, and just spraying a new coat every now and then

it's better than to spray all the time, because the layers build up after awhile
 

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