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Cleat replacement

po-man sailor

Active Member
My cleat pulled out. Doesnt appear to have a backer block. Glass is in good shape other than minor spider cracks in gell.
Question...is thixo or marine tex (i have) good enough to squish through the holes and smooth surface with wax paper. Let cure then drill and re screw cleat back down...?
OR
di i need to cut a slot between the two holes and slip this piece of aluminum stock in and turn bow to strengthen and screw stainless screws in pre tapped holes. I really don't want to if its over kill. Dont like cutting on hull if avoidable.
Thoughts?
 

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Mashmaster

Active Member
The deck won't hold the cleat under any pressure. I know this from experience. You'll need to get a backer block in place. Which means putting in an access port. I recommend using a circle cutter for cutting holes for ceiling spot lights. It does a very clean job.
 

po-man sailor

Active Member
I was hoping if I had to do a small backer plate I could do with the aluminum stock in the pic marine texed or thixoed in, and screwed down with stainless screws. I use a "lashed" mast cleat with the halyard to relive that spar/sail stress, so the cleat is only a side pull to hold the mast itself in the step from the gooseneck through the deck eye which is still very solid.
Is my thinking flawed?
Honestly I'm avoiding an access port like the plague. I hate to cut a hull unless absolutely forced for major repair...which I hope this was not. If I can get this done this boat will be back in business with original weight no mods.
More input from everyone is always welcome. Would like to avoid your pitfalls. Lol
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Don't cut anything yet!

Did you poke off to the inside sides of the hole with a wire to see if any remnants of the block are there?
 

po-man sailor

Active Member
Thanks SC im in the shop now putting another coat of varnish in woodwork and grinding out 2 minor crunch voids on the keel to glass back. Will be hitting you up later for best spot cosmetic finish work on these spots. Trying to also avoid full paint on bottom. Just adds weight (Also WAIT) and time for me.
 

po-man sailor

Active Member
Since I always avoid cutting ports on a good boat, I guess I'll go with my original plan of the aluminum backing backing plate as shown in pic, put in through slot with parachord between holes and epoxied while upside down. Cleat holes are pre drilled and pre screwed so they should go in fairly well.
I figure its the short step but secure as long as I use the halyard lash loop on the mast. If it tears out... then I do the port repair as suggested anyway. I'll post if it tears out so everyone can get a good dig in ;) LOL
My Daddy always said I was the stubborn one.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
Probably average.

Yes SC I don't feel anything to the sides with a piece of bailing wire or Allen wrench.
Since the holes are already enlarged, you could install mollies by drilling 1/2" holes. The cleat will hide most of it.

Depending on the type of molly, cheap Teflon tape around threads will keep the Thixo you're using from bonding to it. Smooth the area, use machine screws to secure the cleat.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
How about plastic drywall anchors, with a little bead of adhesive?

I thought there was a report of someone flipping the boat upside down and injecting thixo into the holes? So it formed a backer blob, tape over holes, let it dry, drill pilot holes, install cleat and screws.

And your backer plate idea will certainly work, Capn Jack did that for a bow handle once. The key is to have some kind of string(s) the ensure the backer plate holes line up. His plate was super thin, and he put a sister plate on top as well for style.

WAVE bow handle.jpeg

Did you get free shipping? If so you're ahead. We have an Ambassador code for TotalBoat for 15% discount, if you order off their site, but there would be a shipping charge. If you order a lot it might be worthwhile, send us a PM if anyone ever needs the code.
 

po-man sailor

Active Member
Thanks SC as always.
I made my cut between the holes for the aluminum backing plate and I'm just waiting on thixo delivery friday to put in place. I drilled a hole in between the two pre- screwed holes on the plate to insert a piece of parachord with a small knot behind it to control plate once inserted. Then I'll just cut off with a razor blade once the thixo is stuck and I have the screws started. Before putting cleat screws in I'll probably fill in any voids in the cut deck above the plate slot with the thixo and smooth it out.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
That's the better deal then! I forgot that Jamestown Distributors was filling a lot of Amazon orders every day out of their Bristol store, it was creeping up to be almost half of their business. Fun place to visit once we get things back to abnormal.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
How about plastic drywall anchors, with a little bead of adhesive?

I thought there was a report of someone flipping the boat upside down and injecting thixo into the holes? So it formed a backer blob, tape over holes, let it dry, drill pilot holes, install cleat and screws.

And your backer plate idea will certainly work, Capn Jack did that for a bow handle once. The key is to have some kind of string(s) the ensure the backer plate holes line up. His plate was super thin, and he put a sister plate on top as well for style. Did you get free shipping? If so you're ahead. We have an Ambassador code for TotalBoat for 15% discount, if you order off their site, but there would be a shipping charge. If you order a lot it might be worthwhile, send us a PM if anyone ever needs the code.
That was my approach--eight holes filled! :confused:


Now that we have the halyard "tether" solution--and a mast cleat isn't the only alternative--halyard tension isn't a problem with the "backing blob". :)
 

Woodwind

Active Member
Hey I’m going to start using thixo, I usually use the West system gallon cans and a small Hardner pump depending on which type of Hardner I want to use that day. What I want to understand is if the stuff you guys are buying is for loadbearing type repairs or if it’s closer to West 410 or something that’s lighter weight, not intended for loadbearing… I just don’t know

and what vendor on Amazon are you purchasing those two tubes for 20 something dollars?

Thanks!
 

po-man sailor

Active Member
Runs about $22, per tube--and the tube isn't 9 ounces, as it's appearance would make one assume.
Thanks for the info LV. I just noticed that. You are correct. It seems like they intentionally make it look the same when in reality it is only 6 ozs. That tics me off...
Won't happen again and I'm going to report the deceptive image practice. Its the principle...
 

Cactus Cowboy

Well-Known Member
Caveat emptor... :confused:

Lot of that deceptive bull$h!t going on nowadays... ;)

Ya think you're buyin' a big ol' thumper, but ya wind up with a Chinese pit bike, lol... :rolleyes:
 

po-man sailor

Active Member
LOL yep...like my elementry school teacher used to threaten me with. I wonder whatever happened to those records? LOL
I just want to report it so they can't keep doing it to other DAs like me.
 

beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
Include West Marine: their SIX-10 filled-epoxy is packaged the same way. :(
West epoxy is not a West Marine product. BTW, doesn’t the cartridge need to be the right size to fit in a caulk gun? Plus somehow the hardener tube fits in there too. Given they are very clear about how much stuff is in the cartridge I don’t see what everyone is so worked up over.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
West Marine, @ $29.99, charges the highest prices, so I'd direct any displeasure to them. (Rather than the provider, who's not into retail pricing schemes).

As displayed, Six-10 appears sized no differently than other standard caulk-gun products.

The surprise occurs when the cartridge runs out of $29 product halfway through the project. :(
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
THIXO or FLEXPOXY tubes etc are no cheap, but they save a ton of time. If you don't mind mixing, standing and stirring, adding structural filler, standing and stirring, and standing and stirring, then skip the tubes.

I believe that they bought one tube and it came with two mixing tips. The vendor on Amazon for Thixo is TotalBoat. Free shipping saves a few dollars.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
L&VW said "That was my approach--eight holes filled!" Great tip!

Hey L&VW how did you come up with the 9 oz number? FWIW the tubes are advertised on Amazon as TotalBoat- Thixo (185ml Cartridge), which equals 6.25559 ounces.

And you are right, I was surprised the first few times I used Pettit Flexpoxy or THIXO, it looks like the plunger part doesn't go all the way to bottom out. I'm going to assume that is because there has to be 2 collapsible bladders inside the tube to keep the resin and hardener separate. A small amount is also lost to the mixing tip. BTW I just leave the mixing tip on vs putting the cap back on, then put on a new tip when the next project appears. If I accidentally put the 2 part cap back on wrong, I had one time where some left over resin interacted with the hardener side and caused a clog I had to clean out.

Beldar you may know this but for the sake of The Usual Visitors there are some epoxy systems that use a Pro caulk gun, a two component applicator that uses 2 tubes at a time. They produce 450 ml of product, 2 1/2 times the product for about 2 times the price. A specialty 26:1 Pro gun is required, might be something we look into if we ramp back up on new builds and restorations.

thixo_pro gun.jpeg

Back to po-man, how's the repair going? You are definitely onto a nice alternative repair method.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
L&VW said "That was my approach--eight holes filled!" Great tip!

Hey L&VW how did you come up with the 9 oz number?
FWIW the tubes are advertised on Amazon as TotalBoat- Thixo (185ml Cartridge), which equals 6.25559 ounces.

And you are right, I was surprised the first few times I used Pettit Flexpoxy or THIXO, it looks like the plunger part doesn't go all the way to bottom out. I'm going to assume that is because there has to be 2 collapsible bladders inside the tube to keep the resin and hardener separate. A small amount is also lost to the mixing tip. BTW I just leave the mixing tip on vs putting the cap back on, then put on a new tip when the next project appears. If I accidentally put the 2 part cap back on wrong, I had one time where some left over resin interacted with the hardener side and caused a clog I had to clean out.

Beldar you may know this but for the sake of The Usual Visitors there are some epoxy systems that use a Pro caulk gun, a two component applicator that uses 2 tubes at a time. They produce 450 ml of product, 2 1/2 times the product for about 2 times the price. A specialty 26:1 Pro gun is required, might be something we look into if we ramp back up on new builds and restorations.

View attachment 45362

Back to po-man, how's the repair going? You are definitely onto a nice alternative repair method.
An approximation, as products sold in cartridges vary in weight.

A cartridge of "heavy" Silicone sealer weighs 9.8 oz.

Viewing a cartridge of Thixo on the store's shelf suggests it weighs very close to that; however, a large plastic filler-piece occupies about half of the expected volume. :mad:
 

po-man sailor

Active Member
Yep. I can appreciate the excellent delivery method but like others I sure would like more product or at lease a statement to let folks know. It wouldn't stop me from buying it. I could just plan the job better.
Btw will not order from Amazon even though free shipping and no hax mat fee. It takes forever to get it. Still not here. Beautifull weekend to work on my boat gone. Did glass work instead though.
 

beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
An approximation, as products sold in cartridges vary in weight.

A cartridge of "heavy" Silicone sealer weighs 9.8 oz.

Viewing a cartridge of Thixo on the store's shelf suggests it weighs very close to that; however, a large plastic filler-piece occupies about half of the expected volume. :mad:
Ummm aren’t those products 9.8 oz of volume for example, not 9.8 oz of weight??
Also, for those of you who want more filler in the cartridge, the price would go up too, which might price some people out of the market for their product.
 
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