cleat positions for outhaul and cunningham
- Thread starter triguy46
- Start date
I think the cunningham should be directly under the spar so it can be easily adjusted on either tack. I put my outhaul on the starboard side so it can be released at the windward mark. The tail of the line goes around the mast so it can be tightened easily on starboard and port. That eliminates the leeward mark rounding issue.
Similiarly im wondering were is the best position for the outhaul and cunningham cleats along the boom. Should they be foward of the cockpit out of the way yet within reach, or should they be in over the cockpit. It seems that if they were too far back they would be hard to reach. What is the most confortable placement?
I used the position from the article Scott Kyle did on setting up a fish for racing. WHich is to say just back of the front edge of the cockpit. http://www.sunfishclass.org/frequent/sunfish__tuning_guide_for_racers.htm
Although I did rerig the lines in an easier fashion using 236 harken cleats rather than the ones listed. makes the lines a lot shorter and they don't cross as when you use the gooseneck as part of the outhaul line.
Although I did rerig the lines in an easier fashion using 236 harken cleats rather than the ones listed. makes the lines a lot shorter and they don't cross as when you use the gooseneck as part of the outhaul line.
The outhaul cleat is on starboard side of the boom at 64inches from the front of cleat to where the front end cap meets the aluminum spar. This is approxiamately where the boom block is on the spar.
The locate cunningham cleat on bottom of the boom at 41 inches from the front of cleat to where the front end cap meets the aluminum spar.
These measurements are approximate. I recommend you lay it out on your spar and make sure they will not interfere with the sail when you tighten/loosen the outhaul.
To the best of my knowledge these positions are what the Worlds boats use. However, I believe they have (or had) the cunningham cleat on the starboard side (as opposed to under). It is so far enough forward that you will never have a problem hitting your head. It is definitely worth putting the cleat under the spar to simplify the adjustment on either tack.
Masthead in Florida sells clamp on cleats that you can move around. This simplifies trying different locations without making swiss cheese out of your spars.
http://www.mastheadsailinggear.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=SF377
The locate cunningham cleat on bottom of the boom at 41 inches from the front of cleat to where the front end cap meets the aluminum spar.
These measurements are approximate. I recommend you lay it out on your spar and make sure they will not interfere with the sail when you tighten/loosen the outhaul.
To the best of my knowledge these positions are what the Worlds boats use. However, I believe they have (or had) the cunningham cleat on the starboard side (as opposed to under). It is so far enough forward that you will never have a problem hitting your head. It is definitely worth putting the cleat under the spar to simplify the adjustment on either tack.
Masthead in Florida sells clamp on cleats that you can move around. This simplifies trying different locations without making swiss cheese out of your spars.
http://www.mastheadsailinggear.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=SF377
I am not sure if this is the best or simplest solution but this is what I have done and it has been effective.
I injected a small quantity of resin inside the spar through the hole. The resin mixture was probably a ketchup consistency. I then put masking tape (expoxy does not stick to it) over the hole and left the hole facing down so gravity would settle the epoxy into the hole. After about 24 hours when the epoxy had cured I removed the tape. No sanding was required.
I injected a small quantity of resin inside the spar through the hole. The resin mixture was probably a ketchup consistency. I then put masking tape (expoxy does not stick to it) over the hole and left the hole facing down so gravity would settle the epoxy into the hole. After about 24 hours when the epoxy had cured I removed the tape. No sanding was required.
hey everyone,
sorry but i'm both new and slow... i've read alot about the outhaul and cunningham rigging and some information on the locations of these rigging components, along with the picture at the link below.
http://www.sunfishclass.org/tips/cleats.gif
can someone please take a picture of their setup that will give me an idea of how and where to rig these parts? i'm sure its not as confusing as it seems now. right now, i know mine is rigged incorrectly. i have to hold the lead in my hand while i'm sailing because there is no swivel cleat in place on the deck. i know these topics have probably been covered, but i think pictures may be worth a thousand posts.
thanks everyone!
josh
clemson, sc
sorry but i'm both new and slow... i've read alot about the outhaul and cunningham rigging and some information on the locations of these rigging components, along with the picture at the link below.
http://www.sunfishclass.org/tips/cleats.gif
can someone please take a picture of their setup that will give me an idea of how and where to rig these parts? i'm sure its not as confusing as it seems now. right now, i know mine is rigged incorrectly. i have to hold the lead in my hand while i'm sailing because there is no swivel cleat in place on the deck. i know these topics have probably been covered, but i think pictures may be worth a thousand posts.
thanks everyone!
josh
clemson, sc
It is listed in Article 14 of the Worlds NOR:
http://www.sunfishclass.org/2006Worlds/2006SunfishWorldNOR.htm
where the cleats are placed (Items 4 & 6) for the factory supplied charter boats.
http://www.sunfishclass.org/2006Worlds/2006SunfishWorldNOR.htm
where the cleats are placed (Items 4 & 6) for the factory supplied charter boats.
Cunningham and outhauls are used to adjust race style sail shape.
In general loose is better in lighter air, tighten up and flatten the sail to reduce power in higher air.
A search of sunfish race tuning will give you more info should you want to learn more about sail and boat trim.
I prefer to have the additional adjustment racing or not, any thing I can do to make my boat sail better I go for.
In general loose is better in lighter air, tighten up and flatten the sail to reduce power in higher air.
A search of sunfish race tuning will give you more info should you want to learn more about sail and boat trim.
I prefer to have the additional adjustment racing or not, any thing I can do to make my boat sail better I go for.