Carpet on daggerboard trunk

[Cavi]

okay, my daggerboard fits good, but a bit loose to the point that I cannot lift it halfway and leave it , it just immediatly slides back down, I I want to glue a peice of carpet in the daggerboard trunk. Anyone hae pictures of what they have done?

 

[Kevin Mc]

I attached indoor/outdoor carper strips to the front and rear of the centerboard trunk (the attached pic shows the froward end; the rear is identical). I used silicone caulk; this was 2 years ago and it's held without a problem (in saltwater). Given the carpet I used and the centerboard dimensions (an Intensity model), another layer of carpet, at least on one end, would be needed to keep the board from sliding down by itself. However, I attach a small bungee from the board to the halyard - this holds it in any position.

 

[beldar boathead]

okay, my daggerboard fits good, but a bit loose to the point that I cannot lift it halfway and leave it , it just immediatly slides back down, I I want to glue a peice of carpet in the daggerboard trunk. Anyone hae pictures of what they have done?

Use a piece of shockcord to hold it up.

 

[cookwithgas]

okay, my daggerboard fits good, but a bit loose to the point that I cannot lift it halfway and leave it , it just immediatly slides back down, I I want to glue a peice of carpet in the daggerboard trunk. Anyone hae pictures of what they have done?

Keep it simple. Hook a bungee on the cleat for the halyard in front of the splash guard back to the daggerboard. You can either drill a hole in the daggerboard or put an eyelet. When you lift it, the daggerboard is pulled forward and wedged in place where you leave it. The green bungees at Home Depot or Lowes are just the right length.

 

[Cavi]

thanks, I have the bungee, but I want the carpet also.

 

[minifish2]

thanks, I have the bungee, but I want the carpet also.

The advice you are getting on using the bungee and/or shock cord as the primary means for this is pretty good.

As for carpet, just cut yourself a few tabs of indoor/outdoor carpet or something similar (those with newer boats with smooth trunk seams often use the soft half of Velcro tabs), each maybe an inch wide and a couple of inches long. If you have an old factory issue hiking strap you were thinking of tossing, that'll work great -- you can cut the tabs cross-wise out of that, instead of carpet. Glue one tab at each inside corner of the trunk, most importantly at the forward top and rear bottom, so when you have pressure from the bungee the board will only touch the carpet tabs, top and bottom, and not the hard edges of th trunk.

Now here is what you won't want to hear--- don't carpet the inside sides of the trunk. If you ever get a new racing board it won't fit. If you ever sell the boat the new owner will not wish you well. Instead, if you really want a snug board fit, build up the board a bit, maybe with glass. Better a heftier board than a narrower trunk.

 

[L&VW]

"...Instead, if you really want a snug board fit, build up the board a bit, maybe with glass. Better a heftier board than a narrower trunk..."

Good advice.

Even after a good sanding, my daggerboard started jamming after just one additional coat of varnish! A little more sanding above the [apparent] waterline, and it's perfect.