Can’t Remove Center Hub Nut From Trailer

Guybrush3pwood

Active Member
Trailer question - remove if you feel it’s not sunfish oriented enough, but I am struggling to remove the center nut from the hub on my sunfish trailer. Anyone have any ideas? Thought it might have reverse threading so I’ve tried both directions but it will not budge. Everything I’ve googled just tells me how to remove dust caps but I don’t think this is a dust cap.

What am I missing?

EEE60231-858B-4214-89BF-6D968DFDDDA4.jpeg
 
You probably just need to apply more torque. Put a pipe over the handle for more leverage (use a breaker bar not a ratchet, to minimize the risk of damage). Or use an impact wrench (with an impact-rated socket). It may also help to spray it with penetrating oil like "Liquid Wrench" and let it sit for an hour or two before trying again. It may also help to get it really hot with a propane torch, but this will probably damage the bearing and seal (which you may be planning to replace anyway).
 
Yup. Had to go buy a socket big enough (I had been using a crescent wrench), but that combined with a breaker bar got the job done. But how do I know what type of hub to replace it with? I was hoping the bearing would give me some sort of idea, but it's all built into the current hub and can't be removed (as far as I can tell anyway). The circumference of the spindle past the threads is 3.25" but I'm not sure how to buy a replacement that's the right size.
 
The bearings can be removed from the hub, with some strategic hammering. Here's a link to some good instructions, and you can find lots of videos on YouTube too. Or you can take the hubs to a car mechanic and pay to have the bearings and seals replaced.


If the stub axle surfaces that the seals rub against are worn (common on older trailers), you can buy new seals that come with thin stainless steel rings. An example is below (they come in different sizes for different trailers).


If you want to maximize durability of the new bearings, add "Bearing Buddies" which pressurize the grease and prevent water from getting in.
 
It's fun restoring a trailer to roadworthiness, once or twice. And sometimes the only option. Good idea to replace the entire undercarriage.

I got a boat once for $200, part of the deal was that I had to take the trailer too...

BUD Trailer before.JPG


$600 later, everything was new except the frame, coupler and fenders. The frame got a coat of cold galvanizing compound.

BUD trailer after.jpg
 
It's fun restoring a trailer to roadworthiness, once or twice. And sometimes the only option. Good idea to replace the entire undercarriage.

I got a boat once for $200, part of the deal was that I had to take the trailer too...

View attachment 47018

$600 later, everything was new except the frame, coupler and fenders. The frame got a coat of cold galvanizing compound.

View attachment 47017

I’ll admit, my desire to wrench on things is kinda driving these decisions.
Definitely going to check out that cold galvanizing compound. I’ll be looking to restore the frame before too long.
 

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