Cam cleat for new sailor

LaLi

Active Member
#21
Come on Andy, don't take it personally! What I said is that I am very skeptical of an "integrated" cleat working in a Sunfish/Laser -type boat, and the video doesn't convince me. The problem isn't the horizontal rotation (of course it does that if there's a swivel), but that the cleat moves vertically with the changing block angle, so that there is a potentially-uncomfortable distance between the cleating and uncleating positions. And even that switches between upwind/downwind and hiking/non-hiking. Can you really use the cleat just as well fully hiked upwind as on a full-hike reach, or a heavy-air run?

To drjay: never mind the above, sailors just like to argue about these sort of things :D My advice is still to forget about any cleats and switch your non-ratchet block to any good ratcheting one (although I'd prefer an automatic version), and go sailing.
 
Thread starter #22
Come on Andy, don't take it personally! What I said is that I am very skeptical of an "integrated" cleat working in a Sunfish/Laser -type boat, and the video doesn't convince me. The problem isn't the horizontal rotation (of course it does that if there's a swivel), but that the cleat moves vertically with the changing block angle, so that there is a potentially-uncomfortable distance between the cleating and uncleating positions. And even that switches between upwind/downwind and hiking/non-hiking. Can you really use the cleat just as well fully hiked upwind as on a full-hike reach, or a heavy-air run?

To drjay: never mind the above, sailors just like to argue about these sort of things :D My advice is still to forget about any cleats and switch your non-ratchet block to any good ratcheting one (although I'd prefer an automatic version), and go sailing.


LaLi:

I appreciate the banter between 2 sailors. I do it all the time on surf ski and mountain bike forums. of course I am always right !!

RE: Ratchet block. After looking at prices for ratchet/cleat combo I stick with just the ratchet block. Not so sure I need an automatic version. Likely any good quality (Harken, Ronstan) will do.

I see most like the 57 mm. Per what I have read it provides a bit more of a hold than does say a 40 mm.

Still debating location of block. I imagine the spring is a nice touch.

I was not sure how to keep spring compressed during install till i saw this nice video.


Thanks for your input.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#23
You can add a swivel cam cleat. You don't have to cleat it, just having the sheet run through the fairlead. On a high wind day you can run the sheet though the fairlead the opposite direction so there is no chance of snagging the cam cleat.
 

mixmkr

Active Member
#24
I have since replaced the stand up block with a ratchet block...but here is an older pic. Some don't like the old Sunfish hook either....claiming it "eats" knees...but I like it. With this setup (with a ratchet block), you have your choices and it has worked well for me. I wouldn't like a cam cleat right off the standup block that holds the line "captive"...thru a fairlead or whatever. To easy to get a kink I'd think and not let the sail out quickly if needed. But never having used one that way, I can't say for certain. With my setup, it's just the block...or ratchet...then the hook for brief "resting times"...and then the cam cleats on either side, which can easily be engaged or dis-engaged quickly, with the cleats on "risers".

btw...I have also since moved my forward boom block more forward on the boom, so my tiller extension easily clears as well. This pic was taken the day I got a new extension.
 

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wjejr

Active Member
#25
Hi d jay44,

I have my ratchet block (57mm) on the deck which is the common method, and the way Sunfish now come from the factory. Having the block on deck makes it easier to reach the block and keeps the cockpit clear. I use a spring to keep the thing upright and not flopping about. I take the block off in the winter and put it back on in the spring and it is not difficult. I just use my hands, nothing fancy like the video shows. The only time I ever take the block off the ratchet setting is when there is almost no wind. I have never found a need to cleat the main in a Sunfish, and before you drill holes in the deck you might just try sailing the boat a bit and see if you have the need. You can always add cleats later. As always, "just my opinion".
 
Thread starter #28
Thanks everybody for your help. I wound up with a Ronstan 55 mm Orbit ratchet block. What a difference . So much less stress on my hand and arm. Sailing is now a pleasure.

Also discovered what an accidental jibe is!! Need to work on my downwind.

As an aside my clonefish has a sleeved sail as opposed to the sail rings on the Sunfish. Anybody know why Sunfish was designed with the rings instead of a sleeved approach?

Thanks again.


BTW: temps in the low 80s and winds forecast to be NNE at 8-10 today.Guess where I'll be??
 
#29
Now that he's got his situation sorted out I don't feel bad asking a related but basically different question in his thread. On my 69 Sunfish there is an aftermarket cam cleat/fairlead setup, but there is also, hanging off the lip of the cockpit, a small brass nub that curves down. Is this the original "ratchet block"? I mean did people hook the line under that nub and let it hold the line in place when sheeted in? Just curious.
 
#32
this is my preferred setup (shown on a Minifish, but the same part #'s apply for a Sunfish - the cam cleat can be mounted on the cockpit lip of a Sunfish).


the location of the cam cleat (down on the cockpit lip) makes it sort of difficult to "lock" in place while sailing in a heavier wind, but on those light air days when you're drifting and want to let go of the mainsheet, it does come in handy.

cheers,
tag (my2fish)
I just installed this same set up in my Sunfish. I have yet to try it. I will post results later
 
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