what is the rule for bridle length? Just long enough so the tiller clears underneath it when steering?
Mine is a sloop. So my bridle should be pretty slacked and when its tight it should almost reach the boom when the main is sheeted all the way in? Just enough room for the block between the boom and the bridle?This depends totally on what kind of rig you have. In short, for a sloop rig (main + jib) you generally want the mainsheet lead to be centred (or even to windward of the centreline) and/or as high as possible, while for a una rig (main only) you want the opposite - low and to leeward. This is because of the very different aerodynamic roles the sails play in the different rigs.
Simple bridle for a sloop rig main: tie the block on the centreline and adjust the tails so that the mainsheet blocks almost touch when the sheet is at its very tightest.
Simple bridle for a una rig boat: have the block run freely along the whole length of the bridle, and adjust the length so it's as tight as possible without major frictional issues.
Yes, you probably won't need the mainsheet lead to move sideways at all. It depends on how the whole rig works, so you have to test it first.I have already cucked the linked blocks. I was going to replace with a single block tied to the end of the main sheet but you r saying i dont need one there?
Between the front half of the boom and the mast foot is the traditional place You really need to control the boom vertically; a simple block-and-tackle system more or less like the original Laser vang would do the job.It needs a vang where?
I noticed the becket block at the end of the boom, too, but this is such a tiny boat with a very small sailplan, so that you most likely won't need that purchase.The coupled blocks are there because the mainsheet should start at the becket block on the end of the boom, go to the traveler block, back up to the boom end block then forward. This gives you a little more purchase. Similar to a Laser sailboat.
I wondered how the boom kept from rising... That vang system from the laser seems like overkill though.Yes, you probably won't need the mainsheet lead to move sideways at all. It depends on how the whole rig works, so you have to test it first.
Between the front half of the boom and the mast foot is the traditional place You really need to control the boom vertically; a simple block-and-tackle system more or less like the original Laser vang would do the job.
I noticed the becket block at the end of the boom, too, but this is such a tiny boat with a very small sailplan, so that you most likely won't need that purchase.
You do need a vang. Without one, the boat will be a pain offwind in anything but the lightest conditions. It won't turn your boat into a "racer", just "manageable".
Looking at the pictures, there is plenty of space - a vang is a standard part of boats with much lower booms and more cramped cockpits. And although the boom looks thin, it will never bend nearly enough to significantly offset any vang settings.
Normal attachment points would be about halfway between the gooseneck and the forward mainsheet block on the boom, and as low as practical on the mast. Even a super-simple, Optimist-style 1:1 piece of rope would be infinitely better than nothing.
Sure, but why?
The smartest (I think) bottom-end attachment would be to a rope loop around the mast, running through a small eyestrap or fairlead located as low as possible on the frontside of the mast.
You mean the mast rotated around its vertical axis? That would be something totally unheard of, although the lack of spreaders sure makes it possible.my mast twisted on me. About 30degrees. I just put new, heavier duty screws in the wood block the goes inside the mast to prevent it fron twisting and it looks like one got sheared off.