Break in/ things to know about a new sunfish

JC sunfish

Member
Hi y'all. I'm a long time reader first time poster here. I've been sailing my 1980's beat to death sunfish for around 6 years as well as racing 420s and some other odds and ends here and there. Recently I've been really getting into sunfish racing and will soon be taking ownership of a new in the box 2021 sunfish. I would say I know a good deal about sunfish in general, history, simple racing strategy, repair (a necessity to keep my current 14ft yacht afloat), but I don't know much about taking care of/ breaking in new stuff at all. So, what should I do and not do with a new boat as far as beak in and general care goes? I've already got the trailer situation figured out.
 
My 2022 was packaged with the wrong size mainsheet. It was too large in diameter to freely flow through the blocks. I capsized the first time I took it out due to sheet not letting out. I called Sunfish Direct and they sent me the correct one. Only additions I made was to add a couple of mainsheet hangers on boom to keep from catching my hat, and I replaced the ratchet block with a ratchet block/cam cleat. I couldn't stand having to always hold the sheet. I had a swivel cam cleat on my 1980 Sunfish many years ago. It makes sailing a LOT more enjoyable.
 
Older Sunfish can show a weakening of the "near" (proximal) 2½-inches of the cockpit. "Spider-cracks" in the gelcoat show where the deck has weakened. (Or is in the process of weakening).

My pre-owned ex-racer Sunfish introduced me to this condition, which has crept all around. :oops: It can't possibly be my racing weight of 190 pounds! :rolleyes:

Anyway, if I were to get a new Sunfish, I'd turn the boat over, raise the deck to chest height, and bond two layers of four-inch tape all around the underside of the deck. It'd be invisible to most observers and for the "penalty" of 1 pound--maybe 1½-pounds--of reinforcement, it would pay dividends a few years on...
:cool:
 
Presumably you are getting a Sunfish made by LP in Portugal. So far, there are few data on the longevity of those boats. There are no more internal (foam) supports, so I think it is wise not to stand on the deck.

If others have better info, I will stand corrected.
 
Older Sunfish can show a weakening of the "near" (proximal) 2½-inches of the cockpit. "Spider-cracks" in the gelcoat show where the deck has weakened. (Or is in the process of weakening).

My pre-owned ex-racer Sunfish introduced me to this condition, which has crept all around. :oops: It can't possibly be my racing weight of 190 pounds! :rolleyes:

Anyway, if I were to get a new Sunfish, I'd turn the boat over, raise the deck to chest height, and bond two layers of four-inch tape all around the underside of the deck. It'd be invisible to most observers and for the "penalty" of 1 pound--maybe 1½-pounds--of reinforcement, it would pay dividends a few years on...
:cool:
Thanks for this info LVW. I wish I had done this to my 2018, as it has started to develop a few spider-cracks. It's now on my list!
 
Wavedancer that is correct, it is a Portuguese built LP boat. I did ask about the foam and was told that instead they are using plastic box like air tanks that offer similar support to the deck as the foam, kind of similar to the tanks in older lasers from pics I saw a while ago on this forum where someone had a deck off of an older laser. I still won't stand on the deck if it's avoidable...
 
they are using plastic box like air tanks that offer similar support to the deck as the foam, kind of similar to the tanks in older lasers
Lasers have had those ”cubitainers” since forever, and as they’re not attached to anything they provide zero structural support.

If the deck of a new Sunfish is built like in the Laser/ILCA (foam sandwich), then it’s safe to stand on, at least when the boat is in the water.

_
 
Interesting point on the Lasers. I was told that they were bonded to the hull and deck in the sunfish, but have no way of knowing for sure
 
You have a picture or a link of that?
I still can’t post links :oops: but go to YouTube and search for ”Lee Montes”. The video is titled ”How to install an inspection port”. At 5:20 they show how they (inadvertently!) made a hole in a cubitainer, which they then pull out. You can see it wasn’t attached to anything, so definitely not a structural piece. At 3:00 the crossection of the deck is nicely visible. Looks strong enough.

_
 
  • Like
Reactions: LVW
Older Sunfish can show a weakening of the "near" (proximal) 2½-inches of the cockpit. "Spider-cracks" in the gelcoat show where the deck has weakened. (Or is in the process of weakening).

My pre-owned ex-racer Sunfish introduced me to this condition, which has crept all around. :oops: It can't possibly be my racing weight of 190 pounds! :rolleyes:

Anyway, if I were to get a new Sunfish, I'd turn the boat over, raise the deck to chest height, and bond two layers of four-inch tape all around the underside of the deck. It'd be invisible to most observers and for the "penalty" of 1 pound--maybe 1½-pounds--of reinforcement, it would pay dividends a few years on...
:cool:
The 2021 Worlds Sunfish had lots of cracks in the deck, especially around the outline of the cockpit and cubby. Those would have been early 2022 model Sunfish I believe. I saw one of them at the 2022 Midwinters in March 2022 and it was sad. I am not sure if the 2021 Sunfish had the same issue, but I heard they made changes to reinforce the deck after the 2021 Worlds.

I would check to see if your 2021 Sunfish happened to be included in the batch that had a weak deck. This may have started when they started making them in Portugal. If so make sure they or you reinforce the deck in the areas that were known to crack.
 
I did check on the batch thing, it is not one from the batch with the weak decks. Interesting video, on one hand I'm glad it's not a airbag that could deflate, but also a little skeptical on how stiff the hull will stay without any support since the air boxs aren't attached. Guess I'll find out as time goes on.
 
Link to "Installing an inspection port", with Lee Montes, start about 4:50:


Ignore the "unavailable" prompt and click on YouTube.

(Use the "share" button, and "copy-URL").

Does the deck look really thick to you? I'm using a very small Smartphone, and can't tell for sure. :(
 
Don't step into your boat unless it's in the water.

(Credit: Beldar Boathead)
My wordier version: Only step into the cockpit while on the hard IF I put something in there to spread the load of my weight to prevent cracks, such as layers of thick cardboard.

Break in that baby by sailing the heck out of it!
 
If you're considering racing in Class sanctioned events down the road, I'd check with the Class Measurer before making any changes such as structural reinforcement to the boat. Other folks in here who are Class racers may know what is allowed.

In the meantime congrats on getting a new boat!
 
Link to "Installing an inspection port", with Lee Montes, start about 4:50:


Ignore the "unavailable" prompt and click on YouTube.

(Use the "share" button, and "copy-URL").

Does the deck look really thick to you? I'm using a very small Smartphone, and can't tell for sure. :(


Is it because you didn’t smash that like button? Did you subscribe?

:D
 
Hah, smash that Like button!


Cross section of hull on Portugal boats.

Screen Shot 2023-04-29 at 6.20.03 AM.png


Air bladders. Seem to be only for flotation vs structure.

Screen Shot 2023-04-29 at 6.20.27 AM.png


Note the Caution and Warning stickers, which are coded wrong using my color coded hierarchy. WARNINGS should be red and CAUTIONS yellow.

Who knew that there was a WARNING - RISK OF CAPSIZE! That changes our whole thinking on the Sunfish. And WARNING - READ OWNERS MANUAL.

The red sticker reads BREATHER HOLE DO NOT BLOCK.

Screen Shot 2023-04-29 at 6.17.28 AM.png
 
My 2022 was packaged with the wrong size mainsheet. It was too large in diameter to freely flow through the blocks. I capsized the first time I took it out due to sheet not letting out. I called Sunfish Direct and they sent me the correct one. Only additions I made was to add a couple of mainsheet hangers on boom to keep from catching my hat, and I replaced the ratchet block with a ratchet block/cam cleat. I couldn't stand having to always hold the sheet. I had a swivel cam cleat on my 1980 Sunfish many years ago. It makes sailing a LOT more enjoyable.
I've been dreaming of replacing ratchet block with a cleat. Is this something an old lady could do herself? If so would you please tell me where to buy a cleat, exactly what to buy and how to install it? [Back in the day there was always a cleat to lock the sheet. I asked for one when I bought my fish and was met with blank stares along the lines of what is this stupid woman talking about?]
 
Check out the link above JC posted. There are pics and info about changing the block for one with cam cleat. I did it myself without too much effort. I did not want to drill any mounting holes in my new boat. The double spring idea (one small inside one large) helps a lot as it keeps the ratchet vertical and eases getting in and out of cleat. Plus, it keeps the ratchet from marring the deck.

I went with the Harken 2627 which costs a little more (than the non auto 2138) but is easier to adjust. You turn the cam upside down and it comes with an end piece just for that purpose which the existing screws countersink into. You have to get the cam positioned to where it is not only easy to cleat but definitely easy to uncleat. I had to adjust mine down a bit after first installing. Read the whole thread as there is a lot of info from other members and pictures. There is an adjustment to the ratchet block itself. It works best adjusted fully clockwise for the Sunfish. Otherwise, you won't get much ratchet help for the kind of load our boats have.
 
I've been dreaming of replacing ratchet block with a cleat. Is this something an old lady could do herself? If so would you please tell me where to buy a cleat, exactly what to buy and how to install it? [Back in the day there was always a cleat to lock the sheet. I asked for one when I bought my fish and was met with blank stares along the lines of what is this stupid woman talking about?]
This issue has been discussed quite a bit on this Forum. I hate to be opposite, but I am not a fan of cleats. In fact, I never cleat the sheet. The chances of you going over are higher with a cleated sheet. You do mention age...

I will mention that our esteemed forum member tag has experimented with a (main sheet) cleat and offers an option that you may want to consider.
 
I generally am not a fan of the cleats either, but did put some really flat/lowprofile cam cleats on my 80's fish, one on either side of the cockpit, through bolted through the deck. I had them laying around and figured why not. I would never use them in heavy wind, as wavedancer said, it's asking for a capsize, and it's slow to keep the sail in a fixed trim in that kind of wind anyway, always adjusting. However, on the light wind days (2-10mph pretty frequent where I live) I found them nice to have to cleat the sail off to while I adjust the something, coil a dock line, or just relax and spend time with a crew I occasionally take along. If I had to adjust something on a light wind day I don't have to stop and luff up losing the precious flow over the sail and blades, I can do it under sail (carefully). Granted this same idea can be accomplished by simply putting a foot on the mainsheet to hold it temporarily, but that can get interesting if you're moving the gooseneck or losing you're cuningham that's not led back along the boom :rolleyes:. I wouldn't do this on a newer boat because why drill into a new boat if you don't have to? Never tried a cleat on the block itself, seems like asking for a tangle or accidentally cleating it and taking a swim :eek:
 
Personally, I’ll repeat again, I would not own a Sunfish without a cam cleat incorporated. I had a Sailfish in the early 60s, a Sunfish in the early 80s, and a new 2022 Sunfish. I had a swivel cam cleat o my 80s one and now have a ratchet block with cleat on my new one. It is SO MUCH MORE PLEASURABLE to not have to always have to be holding the mainsheet. I’m 74 and had my first one at 12.

I really like the arrangement I have now more than any previous version. Granted, a swivel cam cleat is WAY BETTER than nothing. The ratchet block is best of both worlds. You don’t have to clear unless you want to it need to.
 
Personally, I’ll repeat again, I would not own a Sunfish without a cam cleat incorporated. I had a Sailfish in the early 60s, a Sunfish in the early 80s, and a new 2022 Sunfish. I had a swivel cam cleat o my 80s one and now have a ratchet block with cleat on my new one. It is SO MUCH MORE PLEASURABLE to not have to always have to be holding the mainsheet. I’m 74 and had my first one at 12.

I really like the arrangement I have now more than any previous version. Granted, a swivel cam cleat is WAY BETTER than nothing. The ratchet block is best of both worlds. You don’t have to clear unless you want to it need to.
Each to their own. I think it's mostly personal preference and depending on if you race
 
Each to their own. I think it's mostly personal preference and depending on if you race
When I'm on my Florida lake, the gusts keep coming. I cleat at great risk. You really have to use your fastest reaction speeds to avoid getting wet!

At my usual summer New Hampshire lake, the winds are mostly steady.

Sometimes, my fingers holding the mainsheet will cramp-up. (Think semi-permanent Vulcan greeting). :confused: It takes several seconds to make them work "right" again, so I'm grateful for the swivel block and cleat arrangement.

Some senior folks have mentioned how difficult it is to climb back in after a capsize. I seem to recall being carried along by my Sunfish while trying to get back aboard!

Is getting back to shallow water alongside a viable option?
 

Back
Top