Bow repair and cleat question

Thread starter #1
Hi, I have an 71 sunfish and a 60s edo western star dancer. I have a question on each one

-sunfish- i removed the halyard cleat. It is directional and marked with a triangle on one side. Which side should have the triangle facing it?

-edo western- My friend's roommate ran over the tip of the bow when it was upside down. My plan was to separate the top and bottom like you can on the sunfish, remove the handle and replace the block while I'm in there but it appears to have some green brittle stuff (and alot of it) gluing the top and bottom together.
Should I,
1, attempt to separate the top and bottom
2, leave handle in, exterior repair and not bevel much the fiberglass right in front of the handle
3, remove handle, repair with proper beveling and probably have to cut a port to replace the backer block for the handle. I read that supposedly has spray foam on all surfaces, not sure how that would affect anything.
 

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Webfoot1

Active Member
#2
If you haven't cut any inspection ports yet, cut the inspection hole behind the splash guard
and use the cutout material (circle) to repair the bow (deck). The handle has to be removed whatever
you do. You can peel up the deck but you have to be careful to stay on the deck seam. A tough
spot may cause the separation line to head up or down at a angle. I think beveling in the cutout
material to the deck should not be hard. Yes, there will be a ton of wet expanding foam under the
deck. You can probably get rid of twenty pounds by removing it.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#3
Is it a factory cleat?
Hi, I have an 71 sunfish and a 60s edo western star dancer. I have a question on each one -sunfish- i removed the halyard cleat. It is directional and marked with a triangle on one side. Which side should have the triangle facing it? -edo western- My friend's roommate ran over the tip of the bow when it was upside down. My plan was to separate the top and bottom like you can on the sunfish, remove the handle and replace the block while I'm in there but it appears to have some green brittle stuff (and alot of it) gluing the top and bottom together. Should I, 1, attempt to separate the top and bottom 2, leave handle in, exterior repair and not bevel much the fiberglass right in front of the handle 3, remove handle, repair with proper beveling and probably have to cut a port to replace the backer block for the handle. I read that supposedly has spray foam on all surfaces, not sure how that would affect anything.
1) Is it a factory cleat? I have collected a few of those bronze ("red brass") cleats, but none are marked with a triangle. :( If one "horn" has a narrower space, I'd put that side towards the stern. Even if we got it "wrong" :confused: it can be turned around. :)

2) Since the Edo's gelcoat shows damage, I'd split the deck from the hull, and cut off the deck where the damage ends. Trim and grind the old decking to bond under a new fiberglass repair. Prepare the several fiberglass cloth layers in advance, and try to build up the deck in one effort. Layering the cloth in different directions is said to increase the repair's strength. White spots or bubbles weaken the repair—use a flux-brush to poke-out those "dry" areas. "Slow-set" epoxy allows for careful (but not faster) repairs..

Even by adding an inspection port, the work-space in the bow is very tight. I'd use bolts (not screws) to secure the bow handle (and cleat) and use aluminum or stainless steel backing plates.

Prior advice here said to bond the seam back together using fiberglass "mat".
.
 
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